Wo-Hoo! Hoo! Spring is in the air, and I’m tired of sitting on my bike in the garage pretending to be riding. Time to start up that baby again, and get her out for some mid-afternoon road rage. But what is that I hear, sputtering, misfiring? Damn you spark plugs! Damn you to hell! Fuel, oil and carbon fouling can all be the result of different causes but, once a spark plug is fouled, it will not provide adequate voltage to the firing tip and that cylinder will not fire properly. In many cases, the spark plug cannot be cleaned sufficiently to restore normal operation. Therefore, it is recommended that a plug be replaced once it is fouled. I replace all four every year. NGK CR9E’s are what came stock in the bike, CR8E’s are one step hotter for colder climates (or they can be a band-aid solution for oil fouling). Gap is 0.7 ~ 0.8mm (0.028 ~ 0.031in); torque is 12.5Nm (1.25m-kg, 9.0 ft-lb) Remove both of the lower side fairings If you have anything but the slimmest of hands, loosen the radiator from the frame. Just unsecure the radiator and get a bungee cord around it and attach it to the fork. Be sure to put a rag or something on the fender because the radiator will scratch it. Get some compressed air to blow out the dirt that collects around the plugs. You don't want that falling into the cylinders. Use a 5/8 inch spark plug socket with ½ inch extension to remove the plugs. Rub a little anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs. Remember to ONLY handtighten in the plugs when reinstalling before torquing them down as it may strip.
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		Created by Carol Spickler Feel free to send me yer bike info and comments - fzrbabe@yahoo.com