WAVE LESSON WITH GREGOR

1.  Wait until the wave starts peaking. Point your board down at an appx. 45 degree angle. While staying tucked, get as much speed as you can on smaller waves or just point in bigger ones. Stay high up in the wave for a better drive; lean a bit forward. Also, you can put the rig a bit forward in light winds.

2.  Before you start to initiate your bottom-turn you may oversheet your sail by pulling with your back hand. Then push the rig forward.This will enable you to really lean into your turns thus letting you make squarer bottom-turns. By oversheeting you actually kill speed which allows your board to turn more, a must in bigger surf.

3.  Timing is everything. Come in too early and you may pop out the back; come in too late and you will get folded.
Contrary to popular belief speed actually will save your ass, thus the more speed you carry the later you can hit the lip and still pull it off.
If you can match your speed to the speed of the falling lip you are in good shape.
When you first go up the wave OPEN the clew even by pushing it away from you, tuck in your back foot on the way up as you get ready to turn bring the rig above your head as the clew is stiil open, then push your rear leg through the lip while sheeting in a bit, here pull harder with your front hand. And that's all there is to it.....but we are all still watching JP.