You're surrounded by it, from the
moment you dress in the morning to the time you rest your head on your pillow at night.
How much do you know about the fabrics that surround you?
Whether you are buying or selling fabrics, the more you know, the better choices you'll
make. This little guide has been created for the reference purposes.
 We all know that certain fabrics are more
suitable for some projects than others. Do you know where fabrics come from, or how to
care for them? This little chart will help you make your selections.
Up until the 1900s, our choices for fabrics were limited to those which came from
natural sources. Since then, a variety of man-made fabrics have been created, but many
people still prefer the textures and feel of natural fabrics. Here's a summary of the four
main types of natural fabrics:
Cotton - comes from cotton boll (plant). Can be woven, pressed by heat
into flannel, or used as knits. Good for almost all purposes, such as Apparel, Crafts,
Quilting, Baby and Children's accessories. As a natural fiber, cotton "breathes"
which makes it comfortable to wear. For quilters, cotton is the fabric of choice-- it
handles and sews easily. Care: machine washable.
Linen - comes from flax (plant). Real linen wrinkles easily, but is
cool, and like cotton, linen "breathes"-- making it a good choice for summer
apparel. Linen is also great for table top accessories. To maintain its crispness, linen
is often dry cleaned. For a softer look, many linens can be hand-washed. Read your labels
carefully.
Silk - comes from silk worms. The collection process is intricate and
explains why silk is often expensive. Silk can have either a smooth finish or a nubby
finish (raw silk). Care: usually dry clean, but many new silks may be hand washed. Read
label carefully.
Wool - comes from animal coats (the animal is not harmed!) known for
its warmth, wool is often blended with man-made fibers. Good for apparel, especially outer
wear. Care: usually dry clean, although some wools may be hand-washed. Read labels
carefully.
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Polyester - When it was first introduced, polyester became a favorite
fabric for apparel. It is easy to care for (mostly machine washable - read labels
carefully) and keeps its shape and color well.  The disadvantage of polyester is
that it does not "breathe," which means it retains body heat and moisture and
its not as comfortable as some of the natural fibers. Depending on the manufacturer,
polyester fabrics have different names, many of which you will recognize - Dacron,
Fortrel, Kodel and Trevira are among the many. Polyester may be offered in the form of
knits, jerseys or cotton and silk-like fabrics.
Rayon - Considered the most "natural" of the man-made
fabrics, rayon is most often used for apparel. Depending on its construction, it has a
soft draping quality, or can be made to look like linen. Rayon, too, has brand names such
as Avril or Enka. It is more absorbent than polyester and usually is best dry-cleaned.
Nylon - New types are being developed yearly! Sometimes Nylon is mixed
with other fibers for apparel. Some Nylon brand names are Antron and Viviana. Nylon is
often a major fiber in knits, nylon tricot (underwear) nylon velvet and stretch swim wear.
Machine washable.
Acrylic - (Brand names include Acrilan, Creslan, Orlon) is often used
as a substitute for wool, in sweaters, fleece wear and other outer wear. (You'll also find
acrylic-wool blends.) Like wool, acrylic is warm and wrinkle resistant. One of its
advantages is that it is usually machine washable.
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Now you know the basic categories of fabrics. Within those categories, there are
different types of fabrics, that are identified by their construction (how the fibers are
woven together, or by their design). Here's a brief list of some of the terms you might
come across when looking at fabrics.
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Batiste - very fine, soft, usually sheer cottons, often used for
handkerchiefs, nightwear and children's dresses.
Broadcloth - closely woven fabric. If you look closely, you'll see
tiny crosswise ribs.
Calico - plain woven cotton, usually printed with tiny floral designs.
Cambric - tightly woven cotton, usually in solid colors, such as
cambric blue. Used in apparel, especially casual shirts.
Canvas - heavyweight cotton, used for items that require strength,
such as tote bags, knapsacks, and slipcovers.
Chambray - finely woven cotton, usually with white and another color.
The white is very subtle, used in the crosswise (warp) yarns. A chambray shirt, for
instance is usually pale blue, but if you look closely you will see the white yarn.
Chino - popularized by the GAP! This is cotton twill that has been
pre-shrunk and mercerized. Most often used for sports pants and other sports wear.
Chintz - highly glazed cotton with a rich glossy finish. At Cranston,
we call this "Cransheen finish." Chintz adds a decorator touch to home
furnishings, and is also great for dressier apparel.
Corduroy - cotton pile that has been cut and woven with wide or narrow
ribs.
Denim - the workhorse of cottons! Very strong, and similar to
Chambray, in that it is often made with white filling.
Duck - another strong, durable cotton, used for projects that are
meant to last, i.e. travel accessories, slipcovers, awnings, etc.
Flannel - very soft cotton, usually with a nap. Used often in baby
wear. For children and baby apparel, make sure it is flame retardant.
Garbardine - can be cotton or wool. This is the twilled fabric that
spans the seasons, and is often used in jackets, skirts and pants.
Gingham - yarn-dyed woven cotton, usually seen in the form of checks.
Khaki - another strong cotton weave - used in uniforms and other items
that require strength.
Lawn - cotton lawn is a fine, crisp, combed cotton fabric, used in
children's wear, nightwear and traditional quilting.
Madras - originally from India. Real madras is hand-loomed and dyed
with vegetable dyes. Patterns are usually stripes or plaids.
Muslin - very basic plain woven fabrics. Depending on the type, muslin
can be coarse or fine, dyed or unbleached. The unbleached variety is often used for
pattern making or test garments.
Percale - finely woven cotton, often used for sheets. The higher the
thread count, the softer the hand.
Piqué - cotton that has been woven with a raised, cord or weld
effect. Also called dobby weave.
Poplin - usually heavier weight cotton that has a very fine rib
running from selvedge to selvedge
Sateen - cotton that has been woven with a satin weave
Seersucker - crinkly cotton fabric, most often used in summer sports
wear.
Terry - woven on knitted cotton pile with loops on one or both sides.
Because of its absorbency it is very often used for toweling.
Voile - crisp, sheer, lightweight cotton, used for formal wear.
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 Chiffon - very transparent, sheer fabric, often used in
evening wear.
China Silk - plain weave silk, usually used for linings of garments.
Crepe - textured silk- sometimes pebbled or crinkled.
Crepe de Chine - smooth, plain-surfaced silk crepe, luxurious hand and
look - often used in evening or bridal wear.
Georgette - heavier form of chiffon with pebbly texture. This very
sheer fabric is often used for blouses and dresses.
Organza - Very fine, sheer fabric used for formal wear for women and
girls.
Peau de Soie ("skin of silk") Silk woven in a satin weave.
This term now also applies to synthetics with this look.
Pongee - Natural, nubby silk, usually with tan color.
Shantung - Originally shantung was hand-loomed Chinese silk. Now
refers to a plain weave silk with hand-loomed textured look.
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Challis - Soft, draping fabric often with a floral pattern. Used for
scarves, skirts, etc. May also be rayon or cotton challis.
Crepe - see silk
Flannel - very soft plain-weave with a nap on one or both sides. Used
in outer wear, menswear, etc.
Gabardine - see cotton
Jersey - a plain weft-knitted fabric made of wool, cotton, nylon,
rayon, or silk and used especially for clothing
Melton - heavy wool without glossing or pressing. Extremely warm, used
in outer wear.
Merino - very fine wool, used in sweaters, vests, etc.
Tweed - Fiber-dyed yarns, rough textured wool in a variety of subtle
color combinations. One well known tweed is Harris Tweed - handwoven in Scotland
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