"If a Honda Civic Wagon follows you home, keep it." - Road & Track, Sep. '84

Back in the fall of 1998, a friend of mine found a car for sale and showed it to me. It was 1984 Honda Civic Wagon. I was thinking about getting a Civic, but hadn't planned on the Wagon. It had about 78,000 miles on it, one owner, dealer maintained, clean engine and it was $600. I couldn't resist.

It turned out to be a great car. As of 12/26/00 it has just over 96,000 miles on it. With its combination of low grip and neutral handling you can safely exceed its limits almost anywhere. In Road & Track (September 1984), The Civic Wagon goes through the 700 foot slalom at 61.2 mph. To put that into perspective, here's a couple of cars and their slalom speeds from R&T's "Road Test Summary" from the same issue. Ferrari Mondial Cabriolet: 60.3; Ferrari 308 GTBi Quattrovavolve: 60.9; Maserati Biturbo: 60.7; Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE: 61.1; Porsche 911 Carrera: 61.2; Ruf Porsche 930 Turbo: 59.3. I do realize a Civic does not have the grip or power of these cars, but it amuses me to see these handling numbers so close. It also has a great deal of "mechanical honesty," you feel and hear everything it does. Some people would hate this, but I love it. The only problem I've had is rust.

Many older Civics, including mine had CVCC (Compound Vortex Controlled Combustion) engines. The following comes from my Owner's Manual: "The CVCC engine has two combustion chambers - the main chamber and the auxiliary chamber. The main chamber burns an extremely lean mixture which is ignited by the auxiliary. The auxiliary chamber burns a rich mixture which is ignited by the spark plug." The engine gets its fuel through a triple venturi Keihin carburetor.

I originally bought this car just as transportation, but I soon became inspired to modify it. I started by reducing mass because that effects handling, acceleration, braking, gas mileage, reliability and it's free. And I've also found a few other ways to get free or cheap performance out of the car.

• Removal of emission equipment and computer - Free
• Seats from an Acura Integra - $15
• Custom two inch exhaust with Flowtech Afterburner (don't buy one) muffler and flex tubing - $75
• Removal of parasitic mass - Free
• Radiator fan
• Some interior panels
• Rear seats and rear seatbelts
• Emissions equipment
• Insulation
• Brake booster
• One of the front wipers
• Rear inside door handles
• Various shields, brackets and wires
• Exterior trim
• Rear wiper
• Hatch lock solenoid
• Battery moved to hatch area - $2
• Coolant overflow tank moved higher so coolant actually flows into radiator - Free
• Front airdam to reduce drag - Free
• Removal of stock rear spoiler to reduce drag - Free
• Vacuum and centrifugal advance disabled - Free
• Mono wiper to reduce weight - $4
• Back of hood raised to relieve under hood pressure and vent hot air - Free
• Splash shields removed from front brakes to aid in cooling - Free
• Stock emblems removed and "CIVIC" emblem from an older model added to grill - Free
• Air cleaner modified for improved flow - Free
• Shift lever modified for shorter throws - Free
• Brake booster removed - Free
• Non-resistor spark plug wires - Free
• New feedback system to make engine run leaner in normal driving - Free
• Negative camber on front wheels - Free
• Non-resistor NGK spark plugs - $8
• Lowered front by adjusting torsion bars - Free
• KYB rear dampers - $20
• Unknown brand rear lowering springs - $16
• Exhaust manifold from a 1986 Civic Si - $15
• KYB front dampers - $30
• Integra combination switch - $12
• CRX HF 5th gear (0.655 vs. 0.714) to drop engine speed for better gas mileage - $6
• Front strut tower brace - Free

• Rear spoiler to reduce drag
• Possible underdrive pulley for the alternator
• Air/fuel ratio meter
• Electric fuel pump from an Accord
• Cibie E-code H1 high beams and Cibie and Bosch H4 high/low beams with 100 watt and 80/100 watt Hella bulbs
• Aluminum radiator to further reduce weight

4/14/2000 update

I recently replaced my oil pan. This took two days of laying in the driveway enjoying a spring rain. I bought the pan from a junkyard, and they were nice enough to punch a hole in the bottom of the pan to drain the oil. To fix this I had to buy a propane/oxygen torch and braze the hole. This was still cheaper than a new oil pan ($110). To install the pan without dropping the gasket in the mud, I had to grind off the corners of the pan near the flywheel. I finally got it installed, filled the engine with Castrol Syntec, and started the engine. No leaks!

4/23/2000 update

On Thursday (20^th), I received a service manual that I bought for my car from eBay. It is a 1985 factory service manual. If you want to do anything with your car, you need one of these books. Forget about the Chilton or Haynes books, they are a waste of money. This book has all the information you would need to fix a Civic. You could almost start manufacturing Civics with this book.

4/27/2000 update

Yesterday I chipped out the asphalt sheets that live under my carpet, and removed some fuzzy insulation. My emission controls have been slowly "falling off", thanks to my service manual. Some of them will stay because they help fuel economy. Soon I think I'll need a clutch and axles.

5/11/2000 update

I recently removed all of my emission controls, except for my catalytic converter and pcv. I did this to further reduce mass, simplify my engine, and to to make it easier to work on. An unexpected benefit was a smoother idle. I think I had some vacuum leaks.

6/12/2000 update

I bought a passenger side axle from Advance Auto parts. Now I'm waiting for my ball joint puller to come from JC Whitney.

6/27/2000 update

I installed my axle yesterday. It was easier than I expected. Now I just have to fill the transmission back up with oil.

7/7/2000 update

Yesterday I reinstalled a few emission parts to help increase my gas mileage. I now have a switch in the car controlling a pair of solenoids that let air into the intake manifold. This is how the original feedback system leaned out the mixture, but my way is much simpler. I also tried something to make my open exhaust quieter: EAR PLUGS!

7/?/2000 update

The TanVan has new spark plug wires. They are made from stranded copper core, silicone insulated wires. I reused the old boots and terminals. I can use non-resistor wires because I removed my emission control unit and radio.

8/21/2000 update

I found the ultimate junkyard upgrade. Rear lowering springs (brand unknown). Fourteen Dollars for both. I also got the better flowing exhaust manifold from the same car (1986 Civic Hatchback Si). This means I can finally get rid of my manifold mounted catalytic converter.

9/4/2000 update

For about a week, the back of the TanVan has been up on blocks. I am in the unpleasant process of installing my new (to me) springs. The unpleasantness has been caused by rust. The bolts that hold the bottom of the damper in place thread into a welded-on nut. The heads of the bolts on both sides of the car twisted off. So now I have removed the axle (which twisted off the brake lines), and I'm trying to cut off the welded-on nuts (and replace the brake lines).

9/25/2000 update

It moves! I got the springs installed, but the rear brake lines are capped off. More suspension work is coming. I didn't notice any change in handling with the "new" springs. Unfortunately it has been almost a month since I drove it with the old springs. So I might put the old springs back in later to compare them.

10/6/2000 update

I have KYB rear dampers on the TanVan now. Not the adjustable ones, just the GR-2s. They feel much better than the old ones. Unfortunately, they make the front dampers seem worse. I have also slotted the front strut mounting holes for negative camber.

10/24/2000 update

I finally decided to get rid of my brake booster. The vacuum line has been disconnected for awhile.

11/01/2000 update

The Si manifold is installed. It sounds much better, but it's way too loud. Here's a sound clip (1.3mb) of the manifolds with open pipes on them. I have lowered the front end by turning the height adjusting nuts out as far as they could go. Soon I will have front KYB dampers to match the rear.

11/05/2000 update

The SI manifold makes a noticeable difference in power output. Now my car easily pulls to redline in third gear, something it was not willing to do with the old manifold. I also made a temporary exhaust system to reduce noise.

11/08/2000 update

I recently installed KYB GR-2 struts in the front. They didn't make much of a difference because the old struts were in pretty good condition.

11/30/2000 update

My parts from hparts.com came a few days ago. I got a timing belt, a much needed wheel cylinder (soon I'll have four brakes!), outer tie rod seals and NGK spark plugs. The spark plugs I received were not the correct part number. My owner's manual recommends BUR6EB-11 plugs. I got B6EB-11 plugs. The is "U" is "Surface or Semi-Surface Discharge Type," I have no idea what this means. The "R" means resistor plug, meaning I have non-resistor plugs. This is good.

2/01/2001 update

I've been getting my car ready for NYS Inspection. The sticker on the car expired in August. Some of the emissions equipment is back in (non-functional) to make it look legal. I made an exhaust system from a Corolla FX16 catalytic converter, resonator and flexible exhaust tubing. I'm ready as soon as I get the cracked windshield replaced. Also my thermostat died.

2/19/2001 update

I now have a new windshield. Basically, I paid $165 to remove a line on the glass. The thermostat has been replaced by a large washer with a bunch of holes in it. I need to change my oil and coolant before I get it inspected.

3/29/2001 update

The TanVan passed inspection! Soon after the inspection, the exhaust system fell off. I have replaced the catalytic converter and resonator with straight tubing. So now it's two inch tubing all the way back to the Flowtech Afterburner piece of crap muffler. All the stuff I put in for the inspection is out. I hadn't driven my car much in a while because of the expired inspection sticker. I forgot how much fun it was!

6/21/2001 update

I went through the trouble of removing all of the wires that no longer go anywhere. It's not fun to unwrap miles of electrical tape, but it's heavy copper wire. My wiper switch was broken, so I replaced the combination switch with the much nicer Integra switch. The wire colors match, but the connectors are different. I also took out the hatch wiring harness, the rear wiper and the hatch lock solenoid. The black plastic trim pieces all over the exterior are gone. In their place is black paint.

10/29/2001 update

The heater I took out during the summer is back in now. I'm replacing the washer I had in the thermostat housing with a gutted thermostat because the too thick washer was causing a leak. The E-Code lights I got from a BMW are almost on. I lowered the bumper, removed the grill and cut a couple of inches off of the header panel to make room for them. I also got some plexiglass to make a rear spoiler that will extend off the back of the roof. I'm hoping to reduce drag and keep snow and water from getting to the rear window. I also found some hood pins at a junkyard that I will use. Soon I will be putting the stock rear springs back on and raising the front torsion bars for winter. And I also picked up a 5th gear from a 1987 CRX HF at a junkyard. It's a 0.655:1 ratio and the stock Wagon ratio is 0.714. This will drop my engine speed down to about 2500 rpm instead of about 2750 in 5th gear. Since the TanVan hits its top speed in 4th gear there is no loss in performance. And it's easy to change, you just pull the end cover off the case and swap the gears.

12/8/2001 update

The HF fifth gear is in now. I didn't even have to drain the fluid. I just jacked up the side of the car high enough so the fluid wouldn't leak out. I got rid of the flex pipe I was using in my exhaust system. Now it's all mandrel bent. I also realized that you only need one clamp for an entire exhaust. Just over tighten it on a joint, and then move it to the next joint and repeat. The clamp will crimp the tubing together, and you will never get it apart without cutting it. Also my suspension has been raised to its winter ride height.

2/5/2002 update

I finally got a new thermostat, along with a PCV valve and some rotor retaining screws from hparts.com. I made a strut tower brace a few months ago, but forgot to add it to the site. I took a piece of steel tubing, hammered the ends flat, drilled a hole in each end, and mounted it to the tops of the struts.

5/17/2002 update

Due to severe rust and a lack of money to pay my insurance, I took the TanVan off the road on May 13^th. I will be dismantling it and saving the good parts for future use in a CRX. It was a fun car. RIP (rust in peace)

6/13/2002 update

I've discovered that windows are hard to remove. I have taken out the windshield, the doors and cut off the roof. Here's a few pictures of the dismantling fun so far:

It accelerates faster like that too. And no, I didn't copy Sport Compact Car. I did this one day before I received the August 2002 issue.