Today we are going for the summit. We get up at four in the morning and have a quick breakfast -- oatmeal, sugar, nuts and dried-milk together with melted snow stirred into a cold porridge. Outside we hear the Slovaks and the Americans geting ready. We quickly put on our climbing-gear and take off. Ten minutes before the others, we start the track from Camp 1 across the glacier to the foot of Alpa Mayo. The day looks promising. It is dark outside and all we can see is the mountains silhouette against a brightening sky. We have 900 meters of ice and snow climbing ahead of us.

The slope changes from 60 to 90 degrees on the top. We start the climb. The first 200 meters without safety to save time. It is easy and not too steep, but important to use the spikes right. A fall can be fatal. On a snowbridge that crosses over to the cravase we'll follow to the top we start securing. There are plenty of holds along the route. The "Ferrari" route, first climbed by Italians in the 70's, is one of the most popular climbs in Peru. Last week eight Austrians made it to the top. Today seven climbers will conquer Alpa Mayo.

As we are nearing the top it gets steeper. 25 meters left. Above me I see the skies race over the summit. I'm tired. More tired that I have ever been before. Every other meter calls for a break just to catch my breath. I'm hungry, exhausted and every muscle in my body is tense after eight hours climbing without a pause -- it seems like three.

The last meters I climb on unknown resources. An incredible sight meets me as I look over the edge. No more than 50 cm wide I see 900 meters free fall on the other side. With one leg on each side I ride Alpa Mayo, 5.947 meters above sealevel. I'm at the top.