| The volume of water in a pond must be known or it will be impossible to treat with any medications without risk to fish. There are a number of ways to figure this out. 1) Measure length x width x height x 7.5 = gallons. This is a good way if the pond is really square. If the pond is very irregular, then take it section by section and use this formula. If the bottom is bowled then you can use 5.5 instead of the 7.5. This will get you ''in the ball park''. The following are much more accurate though. 2) Time how long it takes to fill a bucket of a known amount, then time how long it takes to fill the pond. So, if it takes 1 minute to fill a 5-gallon bucket and then it takes 60 minutes to fill the pond, the pond would be 300 gallons. 5 gallons per minute x 60 minutes = 300 gallons 3) Purchase an inexpensive flow meter at a hardware store to attach to the hose. 4) If you are on city/town water, take a reading of the water meter before you start and one after… just don't use too much water in the house while filling. Graham Hawkins 02/03/01 |
| Pond Volume |
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| Greg, I know you are looking for one of the Brits to answer your question but I thought this was a good spot in the thread to mention a few things about UV pertaining to your question/comments.Hope you don't mind.A standard germicidal UV bulb is designed to produce maximum output at 2537 A.Many owners use these bulbs at temperatures out of the kill range.A UV light works by interferring with the DNA of a bacteria's,fungi's,protozoa's cell and by creating oxidants and toxins all around the passing cell.Unfortunately low temperatures and slime build up on the quartz sleeve block this double killing effect.To keep efficiency of the unit the bulb should be cleaned weekly.This makes them labor intensive and some units are poorly designed in terms of easy bulb removal. At temperatures below 60 degrees the UV bulbs have little effect.In fact at 72 F(21C) the bulbs are only working at 50% efficiency.The average life for 100% efficiency potential is 6 months.The good news is,UV works much better in freshwater than salted water,so at least we have that going for us.If you are just looking for algae removal/control they can be operated down to very low efficiency.The slower the flow rate the better the algae control-20 gallons/hr/watt. I sevice the bulbs every month( I'm lazy I guess) cleaning the quartz sleeve each time.Because I am only lookig for algae control,I turn the UV off when temps go below 60( pond temperatures allowed to go to 50-55 from mid Dec-early mar.)and restart them with fresh bulbs in late March at 60 degrees.Hope this is helpful to some readers. JR |
| UV's by Jim Rielly ........from a post on the NI board |
| Pump Head |
| Ok, ''Head'' is defined, as resistance to flow, Dynamic head is the sum of all heads…. the higher the head number, the larger the pump required to maintain a certain flow. There are a number of different heads · The first is Suction head…that would be the distance from the surface of the water, in the pond, ''A'' to the impeller. That's the distance that the pump has to pull water to itself. If your pump was below the water level, so it was flooded all the time then this ''head'' wouldn't exist. · The next head is Static head …which can be the level from the impeller to the point that the water starts back down hill… It's the standing water. If the pump was a submergible in the pond, then the static head would be from the ponds surface to the point where the water starts back down hill. · There is a Discharge head, which is the distance that the water has to travel through a short piece of pipe…. if the pipe is long enough and has fittings and elbows, that leads to the next head… · The next head is Resistance head…this is the resistance the water has flowing through pipes…. it's generally 1' of head for every 10' of pipe. · Add them all up and you get Dynamic head Graham |