Glossary-Cosmetic Terms
This glossary was compiled from a wide variety of sources
ranging from ordinary dictionaries to beauty guides. If any of the sources noted
a particular ingredient as a potential irritant, an asterisk (*) has been placed
by the ingredient to help those with sensitive skin easily identify the chemical
or extract. It has been my observation that many ingredients listed as potential
irritants are only irritating to *extremely* sensitive skin or those with an
allergy to the offending ingredient. If it is a common irritant, two asterisks
(**) are placed next to its name. If an ingredient is known for its gentleness,
a carat (^) has been placed next to its name.
ABS Plastic--Artificial nail tip plastic. The "virgin" variety is the
least resistant to cracking.
Acetone **--Strong solvent used in nail polish remover. Appropriate only
for natural nails. Contained in some astringents/toners/fresheners.
Acid Perm--A permanent wave with a pH from 6.5 to 8.0. A milder perm than
an alkaline perm, it produces softer curls.
Acne--Skin disorder caused by blocked follicles, leading to inflammation
of the sebaceous glands.
Acrylic--Sculptured nail material. Combination of a liquid and powder that
is mixed to form the artificial nail.
Aesthetician--Professional who works to clean and perfect skin.
Alkaline Perm--A permanent wave with a pH from 7.5 to 9.5. Produces a
tight curl.
Allantoin ^--Known for its gentleness. A very healing, soothing, and
anti-irritating ingredient. Often used in antiacne, after sun products,
and clarifying lotions.
Allura Red AC - the common name for uncertified FD&C Red No. 40
Algisium Complex - A natural marine-derived complex which functions as an
anti-inflammatory agent.
Almond, Sweet Oil ^--Emollient used in lotions and creams. Known for its
mildness.
Aloe Vera ^--Plant from which aloe gel is extracted. Known for its
soothing, gentle properties. Especially good for burns and moisturizing
the skin. Promotes healing and cellular renewal.
Alpha Hydroxy Acid *--Any one of several natural acids (glycolic, lactic,
citric, malic) obtained from fruit which assist in shedding dead skin
cells. They provide the benefit of chemical exfoliation of the skin,
making skin appear clearer. Solutions vary from 2% to 15% (with anything
higher needing a prescription to acquire.) 8% formulas are generally
recognized as being quite effective with minimal irritation. Glycolic acid
is thought to be the most effective exfoliant of all the alpha hydroxy
acids. (See Special Information section for how to make a homeade AHA
solution.)
Aminophenols--Phenol derivatives used in combination with other chemicals
in permanent (two-step) hair dyes.
Aminomethyl Propanol - Neutralizer Carbomer to form gel.
Ammonia **--Alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. It
works with the developer, sending a chemical action which decolorizes the
hair.
Antibacterial--Substances that can kill bacteria and treat infections.
Also used as preservatives in cosmetics.
Ammonium Hydroxide--When used in skin peels and hair waving and
straightening, it is used to stabilize and adjust the acids.
Antiinflammatory--Substances that can soothe irritation of the skin .Also
can be the property of a substance that prevents irritation causing
swelling and ill effects of toxic cosmetic ingredients.
Antiirritant--Substances that soothe the localized/superficial
inflammation of the skin that is due directly to one or more external
substances.
Antioxidants--Vitamins or substances which impede oxidation or spoilage
promoted by oxygen or peroxide.
(See Special Information section for further information about the
controversy surrounding the anti-aging effects of antioxidants and its
ability to fight free-radicals.)
Antiperspirant--A product, usually containing aluminum salt, used to
prevent perspiration and the odor it causes. May contain an additional
deoderant, but not necessarily.
Apple Juice and Pectin--Clarifying agent, emulsifier, and thickener in
shampoo.
Apricot kernel oil--Similar to almond oil, used as an emollient in
lotions, creams, etc. Ground seeds are often used in facial scrubs and
masks.
Aromatherapy--Use of essential oils fragrance for therapeutic benefits.
Ash--A cool or green-based color when referring to makeup or hair color.
Astringent--A solution which removes oil from the skin; usually used after
washing the face to remove any remaining traces of cleanser. Designed to
dry and shrink superficial tissues by reducing water content and sometimes
promotes healing of inflamed skin.
Avocado--Oil from seed and pulp used in creams, lotions, and hair
preparations. Found to signigicantly increase the water soluble collagen
content in the dermis.
Barbicide--Brand name of sanitizer used to disinfect salon implements.
Base--Also known as foundation, a skin-colored makeup used to smooth the
surface of the skin and even its coloration. Prepares the face for other
makeup. Comes in liquid, cream, powder, cake, and stick forms.
Basecoat--Clear, thick polish applied before nail color to create a smooth
and adhesive surface for nail color. Used to prevent staining fingernails
and to prolong life of nailcolor.
Beeswax *--Wax obtained from honeycombs or resin from bark. Thickener,
emulsifier, and stiffing agent in ointments, cold creams, lotions,
lipsticks, etc. Sometimes used as a hair removing wax.
Bentonite or Kaolin-- These are clays in powders and foundations that
*may* clog pores. Generally, these clays are used in facial masks to
absorb excess facial oil. Also known as "china clay". Can promote dryness
of the skin if used too frequently.
Benzoyl Peroxide **-An anti-acne medication that kills acnegenic bacteria
and inhibits production of oil by the sebaceous glands. Generally found in
2.5%, 5% and 10% formulas.
Beta Hydroxy Acid*--Used to exfoliate epidermis of skin and prevent
clogged pores. Salicylic acid is a BHA (found in many OTC acne medications
and Clinique Turnaround Cream/Lotion.)
BHT -- Preservative.
Blackheads--A mixture of dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria exposed to
oxygen.
Blotting--To remove excess oil or moisture from lipstick or any other
creamy makeup to "set" it for longer wear.
Boar Bristle--Commonly used in natural bristle brushes. Allows for better
distribution of natural scalp oils through the hair.
Body--The volume or springiness of hair.
Botanical--Refers to a product containing plants or ingredients made from
plants.
Brassy--Refers to unflattering warm tones in hair color created by
chemicals or damage.
Bronzers--A makeup which makes the skin appear more tanned. Can be found
in powder or cream form, not to be confused with Self Tanners which are
not water soluble.
Buffer--An extremely fine-grit manicure tool used to shine the surface of
the nail.
Butyl, Propyl, Ethyl, and Methyl Parabens--Synthetic preservatives used in
non-protein based products.
Butylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol--Solvents used to dilute.
C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate - Emollient and provides a dry, silky feel to
skin.
Calendula (aka Marigold) * --Used in fresheners, soothing creams, and
sensitive skin products. Sometimes used in deoderants. Some adverse skin
reactions have been reported in medical literature.
Callus--Patch dry, dead, hard skin. Particularly found on feet, which
endure lots of friction.
Camphor *--Used as an antiseptic, stimulant, and antiinflammatory
ingredient in toners, aftershaves, lipbalms, and after sun preparations.
Candelilla, Carnauba, and Microcrystalline waxes --Waxes used in stick
cosmetics such as lipstick and blush.
Carbomer and Polyethylene thickeners --Thickeners used similar to the
waxes above.Gelling agents.
Carrot Oil--Primarily used as a fragrance and coloring agent in cosmetics.
Thought to be good for both dry and oily skin.
Castor Oil--Used in lipsticks, concealers, hair pomade, ointments, creams
and lotions.
Certified Colors-- Colorants approved by the FDA for use in cosmetics,
food and drugs.
Cetyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol) ^ --A gentle humectant, lather booster, and
emulsifier. In hair products, it is used to smooth and soften the hair
cuticle.
Chamomile ^--Used in many products for blonde hair to enhance color. Also
used in a variety of cosmetics as an emollient. Anti-inflammatory,
soothing agent for tender skin; also provides antioxidation.
Chelating--A deep cleansing process which strips the hair lightly before a
chemical service. Also known as clarifying.
Citric Acid--Derived from citrus fruit, it maintains pH balance,
preserves, and stabilizes foam when used in cosmetics. Used in many post
perm ingredients to neutralize odor.
Clarifying Shampoo--Slightly more alkaline (higher pH) than ordinary
shampoo, used to remove excess build-up of products or water chemicals
from hair.
Cleansing Creams--Contain little or no soap or detergent, usually with an
oily base. Meant to be applied, then removed with wiping rather than
rinsing.
Clove Oil-- Used in creams and lotions as an antiirritant.
Coal Tar Colors--Most synthetic colors all called such because the first
synthetic colors were made from coal tar products. A misnomer because most
today are derived from petrochemicals.
Cocamide DEA --Either made synthetically or derived from the kernel of the
coconut, it gives lather and cleans skin and hair.
Cocoa Butter *--Mainly used as a thickening agent in cosmetics. Well
absorbed by the skin and imparts a sheen.Used in many lipsticks, soaps,
and emollient creams. An acnegenic substance to some.
Coconut Oil--Used as an emollient in soaps and as a shine enhancer in some
hair products.
Collagen and Elastin--These are animal by products used in many products.
As human skin ages, our own soluble collagen becomes inflexible and the
skin's connective tissue becomes less moisturized naturally. The use of
animal collagen and elastin to replace our own is not possible, although
these ingredients have moisturizing properties. Effective in smoothing the
hair's cuticle.
Cologne--A toilet water containing alcohol and fragrant oils. Not as
concentrated as perfume.
Comedogenic--A cosmetic preparation known to promote acne. Pore clogging.
Comfrey ^--Root from which allantoin is extracted. Antiinflammatory,
astringent, and emollient. Contains mucopolysaccharides.
Conditioner--Creamy hair product meant to be used after shampoo.
Moisturizes and detangles hair.
Cool--Refers to blue or violet based undertones in hair, skin, or makeup.
Cosmetics--"Aritcles intended to be applied to the human body for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or alternating the
appearance without affecting the body structure or function." Many
cosmetics alter their advertising to meet these guidelines, such as
antiwrinkle creams, since they would otherwise be considered a drug. For
example, "to reduce the appearance of fine lines", whereas a drug such as
Retin-A actually does reduce fine lines, and thus is actually affecting
the structure of the skin-- not just changing its appearance.
Cosmeceutical--While the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act does not recognize
the term "cosmeceutical," the cosmetic industry has begun to use this word
to refer to cosmetic products that have drug-like benefits.
The Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act defines drugs as those products that
cure, treat, mitigate or prevent disease or that affect the structure or
function of the human body. While drugs are subject to an intensive review
and approval process by FDA, cosmetics are not approved by FDA prior to
sale. If a product has drug
properties, it must be approved as a drug.
Concealer--An opaque makeup used to cover darkness under eyes, redness of
the skin, or anything irregular in the skin's color or texture. Comes in a
waxy stick, cream, or opaque liquid formula.
Cornflower *--Used in toners, astringents, and healing creams. Can cause
photosensitivity in some people.
Cortex-- Middle layer of an individual hair shaft in which the pigment of
the hair is contained.
Cream--A preparation for the skin used to impart moisture. Usually thicker
and more emollient than a lotion.
Cream Rinse-- A mixture of wax, thickeners, and a group of chemicals used
to coat the hair shaft and detangle after shampooing.
Cucumber ^--Used in facial creams, lotions, and cleansers. Known for its
astringent and soothing properties.
Also an antiinflammatory agent (slices placed over puffy eyes can reduce
swelling.)
Cuticle--Outermost layer of skin (aka epidermis) or the fold of skin at
the base of the fingernail.Hair cuticles are the outermost layer of the
hair shaft which overlap like shingles. When healthy and lying flat, these
cuticles impart sheen to the hair.
Cyclomethicone (volatile silicone) --Solvent used to dilute.
Dandruff--A condition of shedding dead cells of the scalp. Usually caused
by sebhorric dermatitis.
D&C - a prefix designating that a certifiable color has been approved for
use in drugs and cosmetics
D&C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake--Synthetic ORGANIC colors derived from coal and
petroleum sources (not permitted for use around the eye).
Deep Penetrating Treatment--A conditioner for hair meant for occasional
use. Of greater intensity than ordinary conditioners. Formulas usually
contain protein, vitamins, and moisture to help dry, damaged hair.
Deoderant--A product used to counteract odors caused by the decomposition
of sweat on the body. Contain antiseptic substances to kill bacteria and
strong fragrances to mask offensive smell. (Not to be confused with
antiperspirants which actually inhibit production of sweat.)
Depilatory--Product used to remove hair from the follicle.
Diazolidnyl--Preservative.
Dimethicone-- Moisturizing silicone skin and hair conditioner and
anti-foam ingredient.
Dimethicone Copolyol - Complex of natural silica, acts as a spreading
agent for easy application of product;
also functions as a moisturizer.
DMDM hydantoin -- Preservative, antimicrobial to fight bacteria.
Double Process--A color service which requires two steps to complete.
First the hair is lightened and second the new color is addded.
Draize test-- An animal test used to determine the effects of different
substances on the eye.
Echinacea - Assists immune function, anti-inflammatory.
Elasticity--The hair's ability to stretch without breaking and then return
to its original shape. Determines how well the hair will "hold" a curl.
Elder Flower-- Used in eye and skin creams for its astringent properties.
Electrolysis--Destroys the hair's roots with an electric current. This is
a permanent means of ridding unwanted hair.
Emmolients--Ingredients that soften or smooth.
Enamel (nail)--Another name for nail polish.
Erythrosine - the common name of FD&C Red No. 3
Ethanol (alcohol) *--Solvent used to dilute.
Exempt Color Additives - Colors derived primarily from plant, animal and
mineral (other than coal and petroleum) sources that are exempt from FDA
certification.
Exfoliating-- A process of removing the top dead skin layers to reveal
healthier, newer skin underneath. This can be done chemically with such
acids as AHA's or BHA's. Physically with scrubbing grains such as apricot
kernels or baking soda.
Ext. D&C - A prefix designating that a certifiable color may be used only
in externally applied drugs and cosmetics.
Extension -- Hair extensions are pieces of real or synthetic weaved close
to the scalp in order to achieve greater length and/or fullness. Nail
extensions are synthetic additions which add length to the natural nail,
such as nail tips, wraps, gels, and sculptured acrylic nails.
Finishing Spray--A hairspray with medium hold used on a finished style to
maintain its shape and hold.
Follicle--A pore in the skin from which a hair grows.
Fragrance-- Any natural or synthetic substance or substances use solely to
impart an odor to a cosmetic product.
Fragrance-Free-- Products so labeled may still contain small amounts of
fragrances to mask the fatty odor of soap or other unpleasant odors.
(There is no official governmental definition for this term.)
Freezing Spray--A hairspray with the firmest hold used to maintain style
of hard to hold hair.
Ginkgo Biloba - Anti-inflammatory agent.
Glyceryl Monostearate--Emulsifier; also pearlescent agent.
Glycerin--A humectant which absorbs moisture from the air to keep hair and
skin moist. It is also used as an emollient, lubricant, and diluting agent
in cosmetics.
Grapefruit Seed Extract--Natural oil used as a cosmetic preservative.
Grit--The texture of a nail file ranging from coarse, medium, to fine.
Henna--Derived from the henna plant, a vegetable dye made from its leaves
and stems into a powder. Traditionally, it imparts a reddish cast to the
hair by coating it. Clear henna enhances shine. Henna cannot be dyed over
since it coats the outer hair shaft, affecting the penetration of the
chemical colorant.
Honey--Humectant for skin and hair.
Humectant--An ingredient in skin or hair products that draws moisture from
the air to moisturize.
Hydrolyzed Keratin--Protein for the hair derived from non-animal sources.
Hypoallergenic-- Cosmetics that are less likely to cause allergic
reactions. (There is no official governmental definition for this term.)
Indigotine - the common name for uncertified FD&C Blue No. 2
In Vitro-- From the Latin meaning "in glass," in vitro tests do not
involve the use of living vertebrate animals.
Iron Oxides--Inorganic pigments approved for cosmetic use, including the
eye area.
Isopropyl Lanolate, Myristate, and Palmitate--Synthetic moisturizers.
Jojoba Oil--Contains superior properties to keep skin soft. It is
benefecial to acne prone skin and dry hair.
Kaolin --
Lake Colors--Dyes that don't dissolve in water. These water-insoluble
forms of certifiable colors are more stable than straight dyes and ideal
for product in which leaching of the color is undesirable (coated tablets
and hard candies, for example).
Lanolin **-- A natural extract of sheep wool used as a moisturizer which
is a common cause of allergic reactions, but is rarely used in pure form.
Lauramide DEA--Emulsifier and foam booster.
Lavender Extract ^--Anti-inflammatory, soothing agent.
Liposomes-- Microscopic sacs manufactured from natural or synthetic fatty
substances which include phospholipids (components of cell membranes).
When properly mixed with water, phospholipids can "trap" any substance
that will dissolve in water or oil. Manufacturers say that liposomes act
like a delivery system, depositing product ingredients into the skin. When
the liposomes "melt" the ingredients, such as moisturizers, are released.
Magnesium Aluminum silicate absorbent - anti-caking agent
Matrix--Spot under the skin of the fingernail mantle where the nail plate
begins to grow.
Melanin--The pigment which naturally colors the hair and skin.
Methylisothiazolinone--Antimicrobial, a preservative.
Mica (iridescent)--Approved for use in cosmetics, including the eye area.
Natural--Ingredients extracted directly from plants, earth minerals, or
animal products as opposed to being produced synthetically. When used in
a cosmetic context there is no regulation for the use of this word.
Nettle-- A botanical additive used in hair and skin products, particularly
eye creams and treatments for the scalp.
Non-Comedogenic--Substances that are less likely to clog pores or promote
acne. (There is no official government definition for this term.)
Octoxynol-9 - Anti-inflammatory agent.
Oleic Acid (Olive Oil) **-- Oil with acneigenic tendencies.
OTC (Over the counter) Drugs--Products that intend to treat or prevent
disease, or otherwise affect the structure or functions of the human body,
are considered drugs. Over-the-counter drugs are
drugs that can be purchased without a doctor's prescription. Examples of
products that are over-the-counter drugs are fluoride toothpastes, hormone
creams, sunscreen preparations, antiperspirants, and antidandruff
shampoos.
PABA--Para-Aminobenzoic Acid--**A substance which absorbs UV light, acting
as a sunblock.
Panthenol-- Vitamin B-5, good for human tissue. Plumps and moisturizes
hair shaft to make it appear thicker.
Paraguay Tea - Augments action of theophylline, also contains antioxidant
to help maintain healthy skin.
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate -- Emollient and co-emulsifier.
Permanent Listing - A list of allowable colors determined by FD&C tests
to be safe for human consumption under regulatory provisions.
Petroleum--Mixture of hydrocarbons with similar properties as mineral oil.
Industrially it is used as a grease component. (Ex: Vaseline is a
petroleum jelly.)
Phenyl Trimethicone - Emollient, moisturizer.
Polyquaternium-37 --Emulsifier.
Polysorbates--Emulsifier.
Polysorbate 80 - Surface active agent that provides smooth and complete
spreading of the cleanser
Propylene Glycol--Combination of glycerin and water, a humectant in
cosmetics. The most common moisture-carrying vehicle in cosmetics other
than water. (Actually, this is the major ingredient in brake and hydraulic
fluid.)
Propylparaben - Preservative.
Protein Treatment--A treatment used on the hair. Designed to add strength
and elasticity to the hair by adding protein to the cortex.
Provisional Listing - A list of colors, originally numbering about 200,
that FDA allows to continue to be used pending acceptable safety data.
Quaternium-15 *--Preservative used in cosmetics. Fights bacteria.
Retin-A*-- Vitamin A deritave that acts as a topical anti-acne treatment.
Additionally found to be beneficial in removing fine lines from facial
skin. Creates photosensitivity. Available by prescription only. See also
Renova.
Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A) - Essential skin nutrient necessary for
healthy skin maintenance and repair.
Rosemary Extract - Natural antioxidant.
Sebum--Natural oils in the skin and scalp that lubricate and protect.
Silica (silicon dioxide) -- Absorbent, anti-caking, abrasive.
Sodium Chloride--Common table salt used as an astringent/antiseptic.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate--A white powder used as a detergent, emulsifier, and
surfectant in cosmetics. A very strong degreaser. Also used as a water
"softener".
Stearic Acid and Stearyl Alcohol--Used for its emollient properties and as
a moisturizing ingredient.
Talc--A soft mineral, magnesium silicate, used as a powder to absorb
excess moisture. Scrutinized as possibly carcinogeous because of its close
relation to abestos.
Tartrazine - a common name for uncertified FD&C Yellow No. 5.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E)--Antioxidant vitamin, emollient and moisturizer.
Transparent Soap--Superfatted soap with a high glycerin content. Usually
used for sensitive and normal-to-oily skin. (Ex: Neutrogena, Pears)
Triethanolamine-- pH adjuster used mostly in transparent soap.
Vitamin E Acetate - Antioxidant.
Vitamins-- Foods containing vitamins A, D, E, K, and some of the B complex
group are necessary in diets to maintain healthy skin and hair but,
according to Dr. Leshin, "There is no evidence that vitamins or other
additives are advantageous when applied to the skin."
Zinc Oxide--An oxide of zinc, an astringent.
Zinc Stearate--Used in powder to improve texture and to lubricate.