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since May 12, 1999HOME
AT GEOCITIES
All Color Encyclopedia of International Cooking. The Knapp Press 5900 Wilshire Boulevard Los Angeles, California 90036. 1988 MEXICO págs.34-35 History: The discovery of South America by Columbus transformed the lives of both the native Indians and the Europeans who eventually conquered them. Skillful Indian farmers had been growing a wide variety of plants for hundreds, perhaps thousands, of years. These have been added to the world's smorgasbord of food and are almost all now cultivated outside South America. Among these are corn, potatoes, tomatoes, chili, peanuts, beans, avocados, vainilla, sweet potatoes, pineapples, papaya and chocolate. Mexico is the home of corn. The remains of an ancient wild corn have been found in caves once inhabited by the early Mexicans. Each tiny ear was approsimately 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.From these humble beginnings hundreds of varieties were developed: yellow corn, red corn, sweet corn, popcorn and so on. Corn was the staple of the Mexican diet but it contains less protein and vitamins than wheat. The answer to this problem, was provided naturally by beans, which are rich in protein. The ancient Mexicans cultivated corn and beans together. They are still the basis of many Mexican's diet today. Corn and beans are, in fact, the combination-in tacos and tortillas-for which Mexican food is renowded. When the Spanish conquistadors, or conquerors, led by Hernando de Cortes, arrived in Mexico in the early sixteenth century, they were dazzled by the magnificence of the Aztec capital, Tenochtitlán. From there the Aztecs were ruled by Montezuma, their emperor. Many descriptions of the white-washed city glistening on Lake Texcoco, its vibran people, its colorful markets, its monumental temples, its exotic food and, of course, its fabulous treasures, have survived. A list of foods displayed for the pleasure of Montezuma tells us much about the sophisticated cuisine of the Aztecs: large tortillas, tortillas formed in rolls, white tamales, with beans forming a seashell on top, roast turkey hen, roast quail, white fish with yellow chili, squash flowers, turkey with a sauce of red chili, tomato and ground squash seeds-the list goes on and on, finishing with a number of different cholocate delicacies. Of course, most Aztecs would not have had such an array from which to choose. They ate corn, beans and perhaps a little chili. The Spanish brought their own European foods to the conquered land. Some historians have noted that the import that had the greatest impact was the pig. Not only were pigs an easily husbanded supply of meat, but they also provided the fat that was missing from the Mexican diet. Fat, or lard, meant that food could be fried as well as boiled or roasted. A new range of possible tastes and combinations was opened up. For example, beans could be boiled, mashed and fried slowly to create frijoles refritos (refried beans), which are consumed in every home and restaurant right throughout Mexico. Mexicans also readily assimilated garlic, onions, rice and spices suchs as pepper. Although the pre-conquest diet lacked dairy foods and fat it included a wonderful array of fruit and vegetables. Avocado is native to Mexico and has been eaten on its own, in or with sauces and as an addition to soups and casseroles for centuries. The use of some native plants has not spread outside Mexico. The maguey is a large, strong, spiky plant, the sap of which is used to produce a somewhat alcoholic yet nutritious beverage. Regional Specialties: It is almost impossible to describe Mexican food without a word or two about tortillas, so ubiquitous is their presence. Tortillas are the daily bread of Mexicans and have been so since, at the very least, the beginning of recorded history. Corn is first heated in a corrosive solution to remove the skins from the kernels, then boiled and mashed before being made into dough for tortillas. Unlike wheat, corn contains no gluten and therefore cannot be made into leavened bread. Today tortillas are made mechanically. Originally the softened kernels were pounded on a stone metate before being deftly shaped by hand into a flat round. Tortillas were then toasted briefly on a hot pottery griddle. Just about anything, as long as it is not too liquid, can be wrapped in a tortilla, which then becomes a sort of sandwich. Tortillas can also be used shredded in a casserole as chilaquiles or dipped in a sauce, fried, filled with beans or some other filling and rolled as enchiladas. In general, Mexican cookery features sauces and casseroles, inherited from the techniques of cooking in the fat-free past. Nonetheless many dishes are fried at some point in their preparation. Many recipies may semm time-consuming even using the convenience of a food processor. To achieve a desired flavor the Mexican gourmet may spend hours chopping, frying, simmering and blending. Mexico's mountainous terrain encouraged the development of patrias chicas, little homelands. These were, and still are, separate communities confined within a particular lacality. These regions have evolved distinctive styles of cookery using local ingredients. The arid northern parts of Mexico often feature a kind of dried beef, called cecina. This is prepared with salt, pepper and lemon juice over a number of days. Cheese is used as a melted topping on soups and beans. In the more tropical, coastal areas of Mexico beef and cheese are used less extensively. Fruit and vegetables are eaten both raw and cooked. Non-sweet bananas, or plantains, are often cooked with chili, onions and tomatoes and are a delicious accompaniment to shrimp. The renowed guacamole (avocado dip or sauce) is eaten with almost anything or simply with tortillas. Southern Mexican cookery features wonderful moles or complicated sauces. Local specialties include squash flowers and crikets, which may be an acquired taste! On the Yucatan peninsula,the home of the ancient Mayan people, the cuisine features seafood and rolled tortillas stuffed with delectable fillings and garnished with perhaps two sauces. Many Mexican foods have infiltrated and become acceptable to foreign palates but the uninitiated are advised to approach chilis with due respect. The tantalizing aroma of cooked food in Mexican markets has tempted many and unsuspecting enthusiast whose system has not become adjusted, or, some might say, desensitized. Nevertheless, care must be taken when handling fresh chilis so that the oils do not burn the cook's eyes or mouth. After preparing chilis always wash hands thoroughly in soap and water. CONTINUA