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(Northern Iran)
by
T
irdâd Gorgâni
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History of Gorgân      
Gorgan Wall    Historical maps   Links    Related books    Torang Tape    Turkmens          
                                       

Old Persian VARKANA ("Wolf's Land"), ancient region located southeast of  the Caspian Sea. Its capital was Zadracarta (Astarâbâd, modern Gorgân), and it formed part of the Median, Achaemenian (559-330 BC), Seleucid, and Parthian (247 B.C.-224 A.D.) empires, either as an independent province or joined with Parthia. In the list of Persian satrapies given by the Greek historian Herodotus, the Paricanians may have been the Hyrcanians.     
Under the same name of Gorgân, two cities of old Gorgân (Jorjân) and Astarâbâd are considered. In 9th AC, the city of Gorgân had its own importance and glory especially in the region of Qâbus Ebne Wošmgir. But it graduaitly lost its importance and finally was destroyed due to Mongols attack. Before Islam (716 A.D.) Gorgân  was also one of the important states of Iran that had relative independence most of the time. But in some period has been a part of Parthian (247 B.C.-224 A.D.) territory and greater Xorâsân.   

The town, in existence since Achaemenian (559-330 BC) times, long suffered from inroads of the Turkmen tribes who occupied the plain north of the Siâh âb River and was subjected to incessant Qâjâr-Turkmen tribal conflicts in northen Iran.
This city was famous as Astarâbâd till late Qâjâr dynasty (1794-1925), and then it was called Gorgân.In the reign of Nâder Šâh (1688-1747), a wall was constructed around the city to protect  it against the attacks of Turkman  tribes. After Qâjâr dynasty and in the last  decades it urbanized and developed rapidly. (Hassanzadeh, 2000) 

The surrounding area, the ancient Hyrcania, was captured by the Arabs(716 A.D.) and conquered by the Mongols(13th cent.). Aqâ Mohamad Xân(1742-97), the founder of the Qâjâr dynasty, was born there, and  the town flourished (c.1800)  with the rise of the dynasty.


Gorgân Defense Wall
Gorgân's Defense Wall(155 km  long and 6 to10 m wide) is one of  the most outstanding and gigantic architectural monuments in "Dašte Gorgân & Gonbad" Steppes (Gorgân Plain) history.
This wall which is the largest defensive wall in the world after the Great  Wall of China, starts from the Caspian coast, circles north of Gonbade Kâvous, continues towards northwest and vanishes behind Piškamar Mountains. See map .
A logistical archeological survey was conducted regarding the wall  in 1999 due to problems in development projects specially during construction of the Golestân Dam,  which irrigates all the areas covered by the wall.
At the point of the connection of the wall and the drainage canal from the dam, architects discovered the remains of the above wall.
At parts, this wall is 6 m wide and in other parts the width is 10 m, which proves that the thickness of the wall differs in various regions, according to the natural features and soil configuration.
Castles have been built at different distances. The  longest distance between castles is 50 km and the shortest is 10 km.The 40 identified castles vary in dimension and shape but the majority are square fortresses.
Due to many difficulties in development and agricultural projects, archaeologists have been assigned to mark the boundary of the historical find by laying cement blocks.
The Gorgân Wall has been named Alexander Dam, Anuširvân Dam, Firuz Dam and Qazal Al'an in various historical texts.
Dr. Kiani who led the archeological team in 1971 believes that the wall was built during the Parthian Dynasty simultaneously  with the construction of the Great Wall of China and it was  restored during the Sassanid era (3-7th c. A.D.).


Map of Gorgan wall
Gorgan wall
A wall view
A view of wall
A wall view
Map of  Gorgan wall,
northern Iran
    

Wall of Gorgan in   the 15-th cent.
manuscripts


Gorgan wall, 
northern Iran

A view  from
Gorgan wall

A view  from
Gorgan w


 
Torang Tape
With the onset of the Bronze Age in early 3000 BC, Aryan tribes settled in the northern Iranian plateau, bringing  with them a new culture, as reflected with the use of grey clay in pottery. Pieces  from this period were found in Yanik Tape, Hesâr (Dâmâqân),  and Torang Tape (Gorgân). Excavations in 1932 revealed five  distinct layers, the earliest dating back to the 6th millennium BC and  the latest to the  630-1050 A.D. From  mid-2000 BC, Aryan culture spread to other parts of  the Iranian plateau. Aryan art is characterised by plain designs on pottery,  relief and the combination of sculpture with pottery. The more important  items of pottery and figures, founded in Torang Tape, are now on display  at the National Museum of Iran in Tehrân. Torang Tape is 22 km south eastern Gorgân.   

Turkemans
  In the middle of 1500 A.D. began turkemans emigrate to the northern part of Iran and specielly to the "Gorgân & Gonbad Steppes" from   Turkistan.Turkeman emigrants in Iran, belong to two main tribes, the Yamut and Goklan, who live on the Gorgân & Gonbad Steppe stretching north, east wards  from Bandar, the port in the South-East corner of Caspian  Sea. Note the  Mongoloid slit eyes and high check, bones: also the bright headgear, concolour, much used  in their carpets.       
The Turkemans make much use of felt, particularly as roofing and floor covering for their tents, and as saddle cloths for their horses.
Gorgân rugs and carpets  have looks and feel of rugs from Turkmen tribe. The origin pattern of  Turkmen carpets is from the ancient Persian city of Boxârâ  (Buchara) in Central Asia.



Ancient town of Gorgan
Nomadic Turkeman immigrants camping      
on the ruines of Ancient city of Gorgan.



Related links:
                            
Names of Gorgân during the history           
The History of Alborz
Place Records
Mosques of Gorgân
Decorative arts  from Gorgân
Hyrcania & Syrinx
Hyrcania, part of the ancient Persian empire
Iranian resistance aganist arabs in Gorgân (in Persian) 
                            

Book Tips:
A Glimpse at  Iranian History (B.Atabai,1997)
Parthian Sites in Hyrcania (Kiani, 1982)
The Islamic City of Gurgan (Kiani, 1984)
"The Swedish expedition to Iran, 1932-1933", by T. A. J. Arne, Copenhagen  1935.
M.Y. Kiani. Parthian Sites in Hyrcania. The Gurgan Plain. Archäologische  Mitteilungen aus Iran. Ergänzungsband 9.  Berlin, 1982.  78  p. + 41 plates + maps.
Astarâbâd va Gorgân(A. Matufi, 1995), in  Persian


Other Links:

Indo-European languages and genetics
History of Parthia
The Parthians
Information about Zoroastrianism
Zoroastrianism

Archaeological evidence for the horse

Persian Calendar
Circle of ancient Iranian Studies  
History of Iran
The ancient religion of  Zoroastrianism
Working papper on Iran
Historical Setting