I'll fill you in where Christian left off (taking full advantage of free internet access at Aaron's).
As my wonderful husband said, we ended up at a great location (photos courtesy of estate of A. O'Dea) on Isla Bastimentos. The owner tried to put us off staying there as he had no provisions with which to feed us. Aaron being a determined young chap insisted we could survive for a few days on mangoes and fish - and to be honest we could do with losing a few pounds (I'm not the size 10 I thought I'd be!). So Alberto capitulated and allowed us to remain on the island. On our first evening he cooked up a feast of red snapper (you couldn't get fresher I assure you) and patacones (plantain that is cut into pieces, flattened using a bottle, then deep fried) it was delicious. We couldn't wait for him to get supplies if this is what he offered without any!
The next day he and his wife/mother went off to Bocas Town to stock up - cold cervezas were on the way.
We starved all day, with no way of getting food and only a small bottle of water to keep us going - still we figured it'd be worth it for the feed we were expecting.
Around 7pm we heard the motor of the boat and rushed out to help unload the goodies. Later we were served up 2 fried eggs and some coconut bread. Bah! where was the yellow finned fish we had be dreaming off?
It was ironic that we had far tastier food living off the land than we did after a big shop. I conclude that too much choice spoils creativity in the kitchen. Nigella Lawson could learn a thing or two.
I must also add that the evenings here are really short -it gets dark at 6.30pm all year round (long balmy summer nights are a thing that Aaron misses). So after dark and with no electricity, we had to make our own entertainment. The sea became illuminated by salps, crustaceae and fish; alll phosphorescence that reacted to a torch being shone into the water. It was amazing to see. We had a sky full of stars above us and a light show in the water below us.
So this concludes our trip onto Panama. We had what can only be described as a cushty time. Aaron has been a fabulous host, even giving up his bed for us (which we then broke!). It's with a heavy heart that we leave him tomorrow to continue with our travels around South America. Lima here we come - State of Emergency - or not.
Friday 30th May 2003, Christian writes:
First, before I forget - some lovely photos of our time here in Panama. Taken by the lovely Aaron, and endorsed by my mum.
Panama is an amazingly diverse country; even though it's really small (smaller than Ireland) and the population is only 2.7 million.
We were waved off by Aaron onto an overnight bus, bound for Boquete. Boquete is in the far west of Panama, in the mountainous cloud-forest. We immedialtely liked the small-town, laid-back feel of the place. Unfortunately, I couldn't walk much with me pie quebrado (quick foot update - it's healing really well. Was broke 5 weeks ago today. I can now hobble about without me cast), but we still managed to get about, in the back of a pick up truck owned by a dead ringer for Hunter S. Thompson - and with an attitude to match. It rained a lot here (well, it is a cloud forest) so we spent a lot of time under shelter, drinking red wine and playing chess.
So from there we got another bus from David, on to Almirante. It was a breathtaking mountain journey. From there, we sailed over to Bocas del Toro.
Oooh I'm running out of time - so very quickly - Very Caribbean, chilled-out. We stayed 1 night in the town and then Aaron met us and we got a boat to Bastimentos. 1 night in the town here (wierd place- all crazy shacks and chickens), then on to the other side of the island for a relax in some of the most spectacular scenery yet. We had a great 2 days here in the company of Alberto Livingstone (the owner). The place was very basic with no electricity and just a hole in the sand to shit in (Donna took exception to the maggots). But it was so out of the way, and like a lost world that we all loved it.
More details when I get a chance.
So now we're back in the city. Congrats to Justine and Ian who just gave birth to a beautiful baby girl - Caitlin Marie - born on the 28th.
And isn't Shelley and John's baby cute?
Wednesday 21st May 2003, Aaron writes:
The flavours of two stinkin travellers swingin' in me hammocks has been wafting around me casa for the last couple o days! jesus H mother of Joseph! Nonetheless, seeing these two lucky lovelies in Panama has been a real treat of treats, their healthy smiles and brimming tales of adventure are an endless source of entertainment!
However, these last months of travel haven't changed them...
Chris, a Wigan boy through and through, still goes dreamy-eyed and whimpers at the thought of a Pie, and Donnas broad mancunian accent rang out as soon as I met them at the airport. Its great to hear some real northern speak after months of scab americans, and with Donna going at it ten to the dozen at the moment there's not much you can do about it anyway.
Go, Strettons Go! Rub a dub dub
PS - I am a wazzock
Wednesday 21st May 2003, both write:
San Blas Islands must be the holy grail for travellers. First - they are incredibly beautiful, second - they have really friendly native people (who dress real funny), and third - not many people know about it.
We had a great time there. The snorkelling was amazing - we saw loads of fantastic coral and fish. Also, we got the chance to dive off the boat and swim with some wild dolphins - which we both agreed later felt really hyper-real (like a digitally animated bit of a film).
On the first evening, we learnt that the kuna people like nothing more than a good game of bingo. So, of course, we joined them. We so entertained them, that on the second evening, they came looking for us, and waited for us to begin the game. We kicked their butts, and both of our Spanish has improved as a result.
We're now back in Panama City, and Christian is finding it very difficult to move his arse off Aaron's hammocks. His balcony is a great place to hang out, with views of Panama Bay and the Pacific, and hummingbirds buzzing around us.
So tomorrow we'll head off to Boquete, via an overnight bus, to see the cloud forests. This is some kind of freakin paradise.
Oh yeh. Some confusion about when we will return to rainy old England: we will be home earlier than we thought, but not by much. We're still going to see Peru, otherwise Simon's guidebook would be redundant - we just won't be there for as long. We reckon we'll be back home in about 4-5 weeks. Money's too tight to mention.
Saturday 17th May 2003, Both write:
Knowing scientists can have its distinct advantages. The party was held on Gigante - a remote peninsula of jungle only accessible via boat. So we cruised along the Panama Canal to the Barra Colorado Island (only Smithsonian researchers and their guests allowed) for a breif visit of their research facilities, then another, smaller boat to Gigante (captained by Emma - the birthday girl).
So, we had a great time in a beautiful, tropical location, drinking Sangria to the sound of salsa and howler monkeys.
I'm afraid that we wimped out of swimming in the crocodile-infested waters, but Des and Aaron had no such qualms. Donna believed that Christian's current run of luck would lead him to lose a limb for sure.
Off to the San-Blas Islands tomorrow on a small plane to see the Kuna people.
Friday 16th May 2003, both write:
We've arrived in Panama City safe and sound - it was great to see Aaron and Des at the Airport. Aarons place is really cool - a huge balcony overlooking the City and the bay.
Last night we had a most serendipitous time: we just kept bumping into big cultural events (gallery opening with free wine, new museum proposal thing). Aaz assures us the city is not usually like this. We had a great night, and the city looks beautiful - we can't wait to see more of the country.
We're off now to a wee Island in the middle of the Canal for a party in the jungle. We'll keep you posted.
Oh look! photos of Daisy May - Jules & Dan's new addition. Awwww. 1 2 3
Monday 12th May 2003, Christian writes:
Woo ha! so now we're in Miami - though to be honest we haven't seen much of it yet. We've just been lazing by the pool etc.
When we arrived in Miami airport we wondered why we bothered flying back into the States. It's so much hassle. You get treated like a criminal entering the country, and the airports are always far out, so it costs a fortune getting to the hotel once landed. I dunno.
Plus the food here still sucks. (mental note to myself: I must compile a list of the good things about America - of which there are many, and the bad things - ditto)
Anyway, Miami seems nice. Everyone speaks Spanish here -so that should be good practice for Panama. We're off to the main Miami Beach area now for some food and a beer.
Aaron's been in touch - so we're all set for descending on him Thursday. He's forcing us against our will to meet up with a Porn baron tomorrow night in South Beach so we can transport some xxx rated material across the border for him. The things we do for a free nights accomodation.
Saturday 10th May 2003, both write:
Well, it was a good night with good people in Banff. It really restores your faith in humans - the fact that (almost) complete strangers will trust you to stay in their house and be so kind. We drank in the Steakhouse (very busy)and watched as drunken youths fell from tables as they danced the night away.
The next day, we headed up Sulphur Mountain by gondola, and we were treated to our first really clear view of the Rockies. The cloud had lifted, and we could see huge, snowy mountains as far as the eye could see.
To warm up we derobed and plunged into the Upper Hot Springs. It was strange to be so warm and yet look out to such a snowy climate.
We travelled overnight by bus (20 hours - a real red-eye) and eventually arrived in Seattle - home of Grunge. After a brief exploration of Pike Place Market, and the Waterfront, we were already liking the town. Imagine, then, our surprise to see a billboard, one block from our hostel, advertising a Mudhoney gig the same night. We just had to go - we couldnt believe our luck. The concert was excellent - they played all the old favourites (Touch me Im sick, Into the drink, You got it). The gig was a benefit for a local pizza place. They are all very passionate about pizza here.
The following day, we caught the monorail to the Space Needle (as featured in Frazier). High above Seattle we had a birds eye view of the town. We were escorted down by the exact double of Simon (from Si and Lozza fame). It was weird.
From there we went to Experience Music Project to check out the Sub Pop memorabilia. It was a cool place and we got a chance to jam (Blister In The Sun), with Christian on guitar and vocals and Donna on drums. Someboby sign us quick! The building was an amazing Frank Gerhy design, based on a broken guitar. Cool.
To top off a great day we got free tickets to a comedy improvisation session and the man on the door, feeling sorry for broken-foot-boy, gave us free beer, chocolate treats and a posable Jesus figure. What a result. The comedy was good too.
All in all we decided we really liked Seattle. It was a hybrid of part San Francisco and part Liverpool. A very cool northern town.
So we find ourselves back in Vancouver for the night before we fly to Miami, en route to see the fabulous Aaron in Panama. A stop that we think will be the highlight of our trip.
We must also mention the birth of beautiful Erika Charlotte on the 8th May to Julia and Rod. Welcome to the world little girl. We cant wait to meet you.
Tuesday 6th May 2003, both write:
I'm sorry we've not updated for a while. There are almost no PCs in Canada that will support Geocities.
This is pretty much the only thing wrong with Canada.
Christian has had a very pleasant convalescence here. From Whistler, we headed east towards the Okanagan Valley, and Penticton. The town itself was a bit of a disappointment; 60% of the population here are over 65.
So, in order to better get around, we hired a car from Rent-a-wreck ($30 for 24 hours). And it was a wreck: broken windshield, and largely held together by rust. But it was worth it to see more of the valley, and to visit the many vinyards (yes, Canadian wine is actually pretty good).
From there, by Greyhound, on to Lake Louise. Beautiful. As we arrived the snow was falling; huge flakes the size of your thumb. Everything was picture-postcard perfect. We checked into the hostel (which was really expensive, but had a certain ski-chalet charm) and began to relax. The hostel also had a really good cafe, where we got a huge roast dinner - so it all felt very Christmassy.
So we had an extra night in Lake Louise, and then headed to Banff. We were supposed to stay in the Youth Hostel here, but we bumped into a friend - Carl - who we'd met in a pub in Vancouver, and he offered that we could stay at his appartment. Cool. He and his housemates, Dan and Shelley, are really nice, so we'll all go on a big night out tonight.
From here, we head back to Vancouver on an overnight bus tomorrow, then straight on to Seattle for a couple of days. Other exciting news is that we found we can split our journey to Panama at Miami - so now we'll have a few nights in Florida too!
The foot is healing nicely, and we're hoping it won't be too long before Christian is hiking the trails again.
Congratulations to Jules & Dan! On Saturday Daisy May was born. All doing well and loving it. Well done old girl.
