The Nuggets Lighthouse, in the Catlins.
A call came to my friend Nik, asking whether we could go down to Owaka, in the Catlins, to do a talk about the work she started and which I help with, with injured native wood pigeons, the Kereru. (theres a link for them in the main index!) Needing to get the message out more, the opportunity was too good to miss, so we accepted the invitation. To make the trip more fun, Nik decided to take me to see the Lighthouse here at Nugget Point. It was quite a trek, up unmade roads, clinging to the side of some pretty sheer drops, but eventually we reached the car park. I went to suss out the track that led the rest of the way. It was more than awe inspiring, it was terrifying! Wide enough for two people in most places, the track clung even more precariously to the cliff face than the road had. If you slipped over, the chances were, youd slide right down the face and into the freezing water, hundreds of metres below! But I had to give it a go, so I went down the first part and made it safely back to help Nik put Matthew into his sports buggy ready for his adventure. Safely harnessed to Nik, with a wrist strap, we set off again.
As we moved along, people coming back had to allow us to pass, their backs against the lush vegetation to permit us the space to walk through. It was a really hot day, the sea shimmering beneath us was the most amazing blue. About a third of the way along the 800m or so track, we reached some trees that afforded a minute or twos respite from the heat, their shade truly appreciated! A few moments out of them we got our first view of some of the wildlife that this area of coastline is renowned for. Not only are there a huge variety of birds here, there is a haven for some of our rare mammals. On the rocky outcrops below were NZ Fur Seals, Elephant Seals and Hooker Sealions, along with pups of each variety. Can you spot the crche in the rocks way, way below?
No? Okay, heres a close-up! In the vile, smelly green pool, which is cleansed by the tide twice a day, are about a dozen pups, frolicking and enjoying themselves under the watchful, camouflaged gaze of several adults!
We watched for a little while, but as we were in danger of causing an obstruction, moved on to a spot where the path was a little wider and where the Dept of Conservation had erected a nice, secure and reassuring fence! This was the view looking south.
We still had a short way to go to reach the platform that would give the best views of the Nuggets rocky outcrops and formations that would easily claim any unwary sailor in generations past. They were quite spectacular, surrounded by the frothing waters, swirling kelp and screaming seagulls and waterbirds. Their curves and contours were also lovingly draped with all sizes and shapes of seal, so well hidden that unless they moved position, they truly couldnt be seen!
How many decades did it take for the ocean to assault that rock and create the huge cavern in its base and how long before it completes its task and topples the rock over into its foaming motion? I wonder who lives there, enjoying the shelter and solitude, too!
Finally I got to the platform but with about 30 people already clustering onto it, I made do with getting onto the first part only and peering over into the distance. I could see animals swimming, diving, grooming and playing. This was a smaller seal coming ashore and onto the rocks to warm up. Twice it was sucked back into the sea as the waves were clearly powerful and keen to keep it in their grip!
I noticed this gorge, under water, lined with the kelp. Its olive green hue was in sharp contrast to the water and the other greens in the foliage clinging to the top of the cliffs, which I must add, were probably close to a hundred feet above it! And yes, there are seals along this part of the outcrop they will climb a huge distance to get the sunshine they crave!
Nik and Matthew were unable to get up here to join me as the first step was way too deep for her to manoeuvre the buggy. She stood below the vast globe of the lighthouse and regained her breath. Pushing the buggy along that track was proving to be quite a workout for a new Mum!
We spent a few minutes just admiring the view and catching our breath before embarking on the long uphill walk back to the car! Matthew was gurgling happily, loving the new sounds and smells even from this height we could smell the effluent of the critters beneath us.
See where, part way down on the right of the picture, there is a slight nick taken out of the foliage? THAT is the course of the track and where it turns sharply and continues back up the cliff to the car park! Seeing the distance involved was quite daunting as we knew it was mostly uphill and some of it was very steep and difficult, but wed no choice! So, having one last look over our shoulders, we made the trek back, still enjoying the magnificent views and the glorious sunshine. As we turned to go back up to the car, a movement way below us caught my eye. I wasnt sure it would come out, but to my delight it has, though its not quite as obvious as it was when I saw it first. There, in the clear blue water below us, was a pair of seals, going through their elaborate courting ritual.
Please remember, I was several hundred feet up and that was taken on the maximum zoom I had! Life goes on. We got back to the car, a little red in the face, sweating like . umm, I mean, blooming like a pair of hot house orchids!