| Mile 13.82 right side of the highway Jabberwocky III 330' This route starts near the base of Love's Way and climbs a short section of low angle ice on the left hand edge of the heart shaped wall. After the ice a series of snow ledges and rock bands is surmounted by repeated mantleshelving with the frequent use of alders. Mile 13.84 right side of the highway Keystone Greensteps V 650' The route, left of Love's Way and right of Glass Onion is the longest route in Keystone Canyon. Of the two obvious climbs in the canyon, the other being Bridalveil, this is the one on the right. There is a rappel route leading from the fir tree seen on the left of the top of the climb. Mile 13.85 right side of the highway Foolagain II 40' This pillar rises from the right end of the bench extending across the top of Hooligan, and dead ends in an overhanging wall; rappel from alders. Mile 13.87 right side of the highway Hooligan This is the steep slab or pillar lying below Glass Onion and to the right of the lower part of Simple Twist. Descend by walking to the left on a wide ledge and down-climbing the approach gully for Simple Twist, or by rapping from alders to the right of the climb. |
| Mile 13.33 right side of the highway Whitewater III 160' This rarely formed up route is located on the smooth wall to the left of Fang Gully and to the right of Hung Jury. Start at the base of Fang Gully and climb up and left. Descend as for Fang Gully. Mile 13.45 right side of the highway Hung Jury IV 180' This unique climb is located across the river on an obvious steep wall. The wind seems to blow up this climb forming "bells" or "umbrella's" of ice. To descend rap on the left side of the top of ice (150') or trudge up the snow gully and down another gully to the left. Mile 13.55 left side of the highway Horsetail Falls III 260' This climb is next to the road at a turnout on the left. It is a very obvious route when formed. It may be formed one day, fall down the next and form again the following day. Descend to the right by scrambling and downclimbing, or rap. Mile 13.77 left side of the highway Marginal Desperation VI- 220' This route is located on an overhanging cliff just above the Richardson on the left across from the Bridalveil group of climbs. Take note of the name. Mile 13.80 right side of the highway Love's Way VI- 360' Located on the overhanging rock wall to the right of Keystone Greensteps, the climb very rarely forms up. When it touches down, it consists of an overhanging, candlesicked, free-hanging pillar seperated from the rock, which eventually mergers into a vertical pillar of normally formed ice. Above the pillar is a snow ledge and ramp and then a shorter upper pillar. |
| Climbs are listed in order of increasing distance from the car or trailhead. Mile 0.0 is the airport intersection. |
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