Climbs are located in order of increasing distance from the car or trailhead. Mile 0.0 is the first bridge encountered (the steel one). |
mile 0.3,left side of canyon Walk in the Park II 290' This climb is visible from town and located at the far left (south) end of the Mineral creek Meadow, right slanting and fairly obvious, in a gully. It is approached by walking or skiing across the meadow, and gives a very scenic view of the bay. It is angled moderately and forms up very early in the season. It finishes on a small bench below Wet Dog. Descend by rappelling from good alders at the top and side, and in cold conditions in early season, enjoy and interesting hike down the small frozen pools and little falls of the outflow stream to the meadow. mile 0.3, left side of canyon Wet Dog III 80' Located directly above Walk in the Park and visible from town, this climb forms up as from one to three parellel pillars. Walk, climb and/or rappel to descend. the next series of climbs from Vanishing Point to Mizu Tori are located between miles 0.3-0.6 Vanishing Point IV+ 250' This climb is visible from town as an apparently unconnected series of thin smears and steep, narrow ribbons of ice on a rock band high above and across Mineral Creek from the road. On a wet day, the first ascent party connected the ice with delicate climbing, some protected by pitons and at one point near the top encountered a ribbon under which rock was visible, and which was only two feet wide. A short leader fall was held by a rock piton. The start is to the left of the main body of ice and the mid-section is a somewhat circuitous, low angled bit. The crux moves are at the top, on the 60' ribbon and a few thin pitons may be useful here. Descend by rappelling from alders. |
Mineral Creek is approached from Valdez easily by driving or walking up Hazelet Street, making a left on Hanagita and a right on Mineral Creek Drive. Park below a short steep uphill and begin hiking or skiing on the snow-covered road below an obvious water tank. Soon the creek is crossed on a steel bridge which is the "zero" milepoint for road mileages. After a couple of hundred yards up the hill and into the meadow (Sunshine Meadow) the signs marking the XC ski course are found and the bulk of the climbs are visible. Climbs on the right (east) side of Mineral Creek require crossing the stream, normally by easy wading through shallow ocky sections. On occassion the stream is frozen over, though other times knee-high rubber boots are necessary. Past the second (wooden) bridge avalanche tracks on the left (west) wall run with such power as to (on occasion) totally obliterate the road with masses of snow twenty feet thick and almost one-quarter mile wide. Consequently, except in conditions unquestionable free of avalanche risk, climbers should avoid travel beyond the lower canyon. |
Lost Aarow III 150' This climb is located on the east wall of Mineral Creek Canyon left of Vanishing Point and right and below Peggy's Mane. Descend via rappel from alders on the right. Peggy's Mane IV 150' This climb is located on the east wall of Mineral Creek to the left and below Lost Aarow. The approach is via a long gully which of course in proper conditions has avalanche risk. The climb's shape is narrow at the top and wider at the bottom. the last 80' is a vertical pillar, steeper than the lower section. Descend by rappel from an alder to the left of the route. Blue Horizon IV 600' This climb is located across Mineral Creek from the meadow, to the left of Peggy's Mane and to the right of Excalibur. It consists of a 350' right slanting ramp followed by a 150' upper pillar. In some conditions the pillar could probably be approached directly from below but this would be much more difficult because of thin ice. This climb, like others nearby, offers a superb view of the sea and the peaks lining the spectacular fjord of Valdez Arm on good weather days, such as was the case on the first ascent. To descend, rappel four times (each 150'), twice from icicles and twice from alders. |
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