As promised here are some photos of suitable helmets for combat. Many of them are definately not authentic in appearance, but since the #1 rule is WEAR A HELMET, they all pass muster. For your information I will rate them as either A, B or C. Most of these helmets are made from steel spinnings, and the reason for most of the B's is that the spin marks are still visible. Each thumbnail links to a larger image.

A means excellent,
B means Ok,
C means combat legal but could do better.

Each thumbnail links to a larger (300kb jpg) version of the same.

H1 A Simple spinning with a rivetted band and nasal. C. See next photo	H2. The inside of H1. A simple suspension arrangement to keep the helmet in place.	H3. Another spinning, this time with a set of steel bands made to resemble a spangenhelm. B.	H4. Inside of H3. A woolen liner to pad the inside of the helmet. B.	H5. Still a spinning but with much less visible marks and a neck guard'. A.
H6. Another spinning but with no marks. It is given away by thesingle row of rivets. B.	H7. A Shiney conical with no visible marks. Good. A.	H8. A creased conical (simulating the hammer weld of a 2-part helm). B.	H9. A well used Gjermundbu. No visible spinnings, a bit bashed but still an A.	H10. Inside H9 showing leather chinstrap and fleece lining.
H12. The legal society minimum helmet. A steel dome. C.	H13. The inside of H12 with a wool liner.	H25. The H12 helmet on its owner.	H19. A two piece helm with a riveted steel strip and decorated brows. A	H21. Another creased conical (better than H8). A.
H18. A cuirbolli spangemhelm. Very light. A.	H11. An Eastern helmet with plumes. A if the rest of the kit matches, otherwise a C.	H14. An Eastern helmet with plumes. A if the rest of the kit matches, otherwise a C.	H22. A good hammered conical with a cross on the nasal. A.

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Page last updated 21^st January 2003