Step #1 - DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY BEFORE STARTING!
First is the physical mounting of the amp. It's best to screw it down to a solid surface, and generally, it's best to mount amps flat with the heat sinks facing up. You can usually also mount them vertically. It's best not to mount them horizontally and upside-down, as the heatsinks won't function well like that. Generally the back of the rear seat (In the trunk) is the easiest place to mount it. Any place else will require moderate custom work.
Next, you need to get power to the amp. You'll want to run 8 gauge to 4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of the battery through the car to the trunk. You'll also need to install an in-line fuse as close to the battery as possible. There will probably be a grommet you can run the wire through on the firewall. Take your time and carefully route the wire through the cabin to the trunk. Use your imagination as to the best route. Once it's to the amp, hook it up to the proper terminal.
Time to run the remote turn-on lead. This is pretty simple... Just run a wire from your Power Antenna lead from your Head Unit to the Switch terminal of your amp. Run this with the power wire through the car.
Next, you'll want to ground the amp. Use an 8 gauge to 4 gauge ground wire, 8" - 12" long, and attach it to a bare metal surface. If the surface is painted, scratch it down to bare metal to make a good contact. Then attach the ground wire to the amp.
Now you need to get the signal wire to the amp. You'll want to run your RCA cables from the head unit down the opposite side of the car that you ran the power wire. Route them to the trunk and connect them to the proper terminals on the amp.
Once that's all done, route your speaker wire to whatever speaker you're powering. Connect them up, put everything together again, and you're done. Double-check ALL your connections, and if everything is OK, then re-attach the negative terminal of the battery, and test your system. Enjoy!
There are several kits on the market which include everything you need to mount the amp, or you can get the parts individually. These kits keep things simple, but are often a little more expensive.
As well, if you run a factory head unit, you'll either need speaker-level inputs on your amp or pick up a set of line-level converters to get the signal to the amp.
If you don't feel comfortable doing any of this, or don't know anyone that can help you, then by all means take it somewhere to have it installed, just be prepared to pay for it.
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