杭州觀察（四）
馮儁熙
二零零三年十月八日與九日
靈隱寺
天下著雨，手撐著傘，身上背著照相機，我跟隨一個朋友到靈隱寺去。
下雨天去旅行，也有下雨天的好處，起碼路上沒有這麼多人。特別是國慶期間，要是大好天氣，則遊人紛至沓來，擠得路上水洩不通。
靈隱寺的門票上有如此介紹：
靈隱寺又名雲林禪寺，座落在杭州市西北的武林山麓、飛來峰對面，創建於東晉咸和三年（公元３２８年），距今已有１６００多年的歷史。
靈隱寺自開創以來，一直是我國江南著名的禪院。五代吳越鼎盛時期，曾有九樓、十八閣、七十二殿、僧房一千三百間、僧眾三千余人的規模。南宋時被譽為江南禪宗“五山十剎”之一。清康熙皇帝南巡時，賜名“雲林禪寺”。新中國成立後，多次進行大規模整修，使千年古剎更顯雄偉壯麗。
．．．．．．
是的，參觀這千年古剎是要付入場費的。首先要先購票進入靈隱飛來峰境區（成人票２５元），在寺院外的山林走走。正式進入佛寺本身，要再購票（成人票２０元）。當然這也很合理，正如英國的西敏寺（或譯威斯敏斯特大教堂）一樣，每天都有成千上萬的遊客來訪，若不收費，又由誰來負擔高昂的維修管理經費呢？
飛來峰下，茂密的樹林穿插在一片迷霧間，散發著一股超逸脫俗的靈氣。境區內有許多山洞，洞壁佈滿從石頭雕刻出來的佛像。但有許多佛像在文化大革命時被紅衛兵破壞了，非常可惜。
這是我第一次認真的去參觀一座佛寺。（小時候去旅遊的不算，因為那時候看了也不懂。上中學以來，我十年未有到過大陸去。那麼在香港，我也沒有到那些佛寺參觀去。）自然的，我也想多了解佛寺裡各種各樣的東西。記得在香港時，曾有朋友說過，參觀佛寺，去得多，就會覺得悶，因為每一間也差不多。這又令我想起在歐洲的時候，朋友們也說,到教堂參觀得多，也沒興趣了，看不出有什麼特色來。但是我想，重要的是，你有沒有興趣去了解每一座古蹟背後的故事，去留意它的建築風格，以及它與當地的歷史文化有什麼關係。如果你有這樣的興趣的話，你的感覺就不一樣。譬如說，我在歐洲旅遊的時候，常常參觀的就是教堂、堡壘和博物館。你說，是不是每處都差不多呢？當然，教堂就是有十字架，堡壘就是有城牆吧。但是，在過去三年，透過四處參觀，我開始懂得欣賞什麼是歌德式建築，什麼是羅馬式建築，也開始了解西歐在過去幾個世紀的各種各樣事情，如文藝復興、宗教改革和啟蒙運動，對歐洲人的社會、家庭和個人的生活型態，對他們的信仰、藝術、音樂、建築、經濟和政治等的影響是怎麼樣的一回事。在中學裡不是沒有讀過書，但是看文字、看圖片，怎麼也不夠親身的去觀察，這樣來得深入透澈。於大陸亦然。
進到佛寺裡，我的朋友就帶我四處參觀。她是信佛的，所以也就給我這個門外漢介紹一下不同的佛像：如來佛、彌勒佛和觀世音菩薩等等。較為印象深刻的一個殿，內裡擺放著許多個羅漢，每個造型都不同，像前寫著他們各自的尊稱：「南無□□□ 尊者」。
寺院裡有好幾個不同的殿，供奉著不同的佛像。我的朋友在那幾個主要的佛像前都會俯伏膜拜，我就站在後面幫她拿手袋和雨傘。大殿內是不可以攝影的，所以我只可以在戶外拍照，這又輪到她幫我撑傘，事關我不可能單手提著這沈重的單鏡反光機拍照，而且在這下雨天，又往往要使用手動模式才能拍些好照片。
靈隱寺又以它的藏經閣聞名。現在藏經閣的地下成了一個展覽館，展出一小部分靈隱寺珍藏的書畫和佛器。印象較深的有元代趙孟頫（ｆｕ第三聲）的《狩獵圖》和《千里百駒圖》，以及近人康有為的墨寶。那裡，也有一尊卧佛，是緬甸送給靈隱寺的，已有上千年歷史。
展覽館裡的展品介紹，只有中文，沒有其他語言，甚可惜。但值得一讚的是，無論是寺外的飛來峰景區，抑或寺院內的各個殿堂，都有中英日韓四語的告示牌，讓各地遊人知道這是甚麼景點，那是甚麼大殿。甚至連「愛護小草」之類的告示牌，也是四語並列。寺院裡也見到一些歐美遊客，有的是自己來參觀，也有的是跟中國朋友來的。我更見到一團旅行團，全是西人，那個年輕的導遊以一種我聽不懂的歐洲語言來給他們講解，不知道他們來自哪兒呢？中國的旅遊業，的確一步一步走向國際化。
煙雨濛濛天灰灰，在擴音器播放的誦經聲中，悄然踏上歸途。
第一次修訂訂於二零零三年十月十四日
第二次修訂訂於二零零三年十月十七日
Observations
in
Isaac
Chun Hai Fung
8th
&
It was
raining. Holding an umbrella and taking my camera, I followed a friend to visit
Linyin Temple.
Though
it was a rainy day, there was still a benefit to go travelling
then. At least, there were not so many people on the road. Especially during
the holiday of the National Day (of People’s Republic of
On the
admission ticket of Linyin temple, there was such an
explanatory note:
Linyin temple, also called the Zen temple in
the forest and clouds, is located at the mountain range of Wulin,
opposite to the Feilai Peak, at the north-west of
Since its foundation, Linyin temple has long
been the famous Zen temple of Jian-nan (literally,
south of the Yangtze River, i.e. Eastern China). In its heyday in the time of
the Kingdom of Wu-yue (AD 893-978) in the period of
the Five Dynasties, there were once 9 towers, 18 pavilions, 72 halls, 1300 dormitory
rooms for monks and more than 3000 monks. During the Southern Song Dynasty (AD
1127-1279), it was acclaimed to be one of the “Five Mountains and Ten Temples”
of Zen Buddhism in Jian-nan. When Emperor Kangxi (AD 1662-1723) of Qing
Dynasty (AD 1616-1911) (His actual name was Aisin-Gioro
Xuanye. Kangxi was the
title of his reign.) went on an inspection tour to the
south, he gave the temple the name of the “Zen temple in the forest and clouds”.
Since the establishment of New
….
(My own translation from the
Chinese original.)
Yea, you
have to pay entry fees to visit this ancient temple. First, you pay to go into Linyin-Feilai Peak Scenic Area (Adult: 25 yuans, ~2 pounds), where you can walk through the forest
and the hills outside the temple. To enter the temple proper, you have to pay
again (Adult: 20 yuans). That’s fair enough. Just
like Westminster Abbey, where thousands and thousands of tourists visit day by
day, if admission fee is not charged, who is going to pay for the expense of
maintenance and management?
Under
the
This was
my first proper visit to a Buddhist temple. (I do not count those visits when I
was small because I did not understand it after my visits. Since the days of
secondary school, I have not been to mainland China for 10 years. When I was in
Once we
entered the Buddhist temple, my friend brought me around. As she was a Buddhist,
she then introduced me, an outsider, different Buddhist
statues: Tathagata, Maitreya
and Avalokitesvara, etc. (Please refer to the
Glossary at the end of this article for explanations of this Buddhist
terminology.) In one of the halls which I was quite impressed, there were
statues of many arhats. Each was different in its
form. Before each arhat, his individual name and
title were written: “Nan-wu (each
individual name), the
respected one”.
There were
several different halls in the temple, in which different Buddhist statues were
venerated. In front of the several important Buddhist statues, my friend would lie
prostrate to worship, while I stood behind holding her handbag and umbrella.
Because photography was not allowed within the halls, I could only take photos
out-door. This time, it was her turn to help holding the umbrella as it was
impossible for me to hold my heavy single lens reflex camera with a single
hand. Furthermore, on such a rainy day, the manual mode was often required in
order to take some good photos.
Linyin
temple is famous for its Depositaries of Sutras. Now the ground floor of the
Depositary has been converted into an exhibition gallery, where a small part of
the precious collection of calligraphies, paintings and Buddhist ceremonial
utensils of the temple is displayed. Some of the more impressive ones includes “Hunting”
and “A Hundred Horses on a journey of a Thousand Miles”, both painted by Zhao Mengfu in Yuan Dynasty (Please refer to the Glossary at the
end of the article.) and the calligraphy of Kang Youwei
(a scholar active in Chinese politics in late 19th and early 20th
century). There is also a statue of sleeping Buddha, which has a history
of more than a thousand years and was a gift from
It was a
pity that the explanatory notes of the exhibits displayed in the gallery were
only written in Chinese, without any other languages. However, I appreciated
the fact that there were signs written in four languages: Chinese, English,
Japanese and Korean, in both the scenic area and the halls of the temples,
introducing the tourists to the various scenes and halls. Even signs like, “Take
care of the grass” (i.e. Keep off the grass) was written in four languages. There
were also some Western tourists, either visiting on their own, or accompanied
by their Chinese friends. I had even seen a tour group, whose members were all
Westerners. Their tour guide was explaining to them in a European language
which I did not understand. It would be interesting to find out where did they come from. The tourist industry of
Rainy,
misty and cloudy was it. In the chanting of sutras broadcasted by the loudspeakers,
we made our journey home.
It took
me two afternoons to write and type this article in Chinese and then another
three and a half hours to translate it into English. My Chinese typing is
getting better but it’s still too slow. Writing articles like this is really
tough to me, esp. the translation of Buddhist terminology and historical
details. This time, I rely a lot on the Contemporary Chinese Dictionary
[Chinese-English Edition] (2002) which I just acquired yesterday. I find this quite
useful and it is cheap (99.9 yuans).
It will
be well appreciated if you have any suggestions regarding to the way I wrote
and translated my articles. Due to limitation in vocabulary in both languages,
I find it quite difficult sometimes to translate some of the sentences. If you
find any mistakes, please feel free to inform me. Only through criticism will I
be able to improve my writing and translation skills. Thanks.
l
如來(Rúlái)： 釋迦牟尼的十種稱號之一。 意思是從如實之道而來， 開創並揭示真理的人。
Tathagata: one of the 10 titles of Sakyamuni that means
‘one who has come by the path of the ultimate truth’.
l
彌勒(Mílè)：佛教菩薩之一，佛寺中常有他的塑像，胸腹袒露，滿面笑容 Maitreya: Bodhisattva as represented by a very stout
monk with a broad smile and naked breast and exposed paunch.
l
觀世音(Guânshìyîn)：菩薩之一 ，佛教徒認為是救苦救難之神
Avalokitesvara or Guanyin: one of the Bodhisattvas; also
called in English, Goddess of Mercy
l
菩薩(púsà)：指修行到了一定程度，地位僅次於佛的人
Bodhisattva:
a person who has achieved great moral and spiritual wisdom and is a potential
Buddha.
l
羅漢(luóhàn)：稱斷絕了一切嗜欲，解脫了煩惱的僧人
Arhat:
a monk who has given up all desires and is free from earthly concerns.
(abbreviation of 阿羅漢)
l
佛經：Buddhist
sutra or scripture
l
趙孟頫：Zhao Mengfu, a Chinese painter and calligraphist in Yuan dynasty
(Mongol Empire, 1206-1368; established as Yuan dynasty of China by Kublai Khan
in 1271.)
(Taken
from the Contemporary Chinese Dictionary [Chinese-English Edition] (2002,
Foreign Language Teaching and Research Press) 引自《漢英漢語．現代漢語詞典》（２００２年增補本）（２００２，外語教學與研究出版社）)
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