杭州觀察（七）
馮儁熙
二零零三年十一月七日
衢州行（一）：南宗孔廟、爛柯山與江山市
自我八月赴杭以來，這是我首次離開杭州。我參加了浙大歷史系中國古代史研究所的兩日一夜學術旅行團（可以這樣說吧），大家一行三十多人，包括老師、他們的配偶和研究生，一起到衢州去。
衢州位於浙江省西部。衢州市按國內的行政劃分是一個地級市，管轄著衢州市，以及鄰近的小市鎮和縣。（受地級市管轄的城市叫縣級市，因為與縣同級。）衢州是一個相對來說多山的地區，與杭州相比，亦較落後。不過，我們在那裡也找到空調公車，這也可以說是大陸東南部地區發展的標誌。
花了三個小時，我們終於到達了我們的第一站──衢州的南宗孔廟。儒家作為中國主流意識形態二千多年，至聖先師孔子亦被國人在山東曲阜的孔廟供奉至今。但又何以多出一個南宗孔廟來呢？
衢州 南宗孔廟 （來源：www.tourzj.com）
話說靖康之難時，孔子嫡第四十八世孫孔端友率眾家人隨宋室南下，定居衢州，並建孔廟於此。後來元朝一統天下，欲使衢州孔子後人北歸齊魯之地，但因各種原因他們不想離開江南，還將他們本應襲之爵位（因其為嫡系，歷代皇朝皆封孔子嫡傳子孫為爵），讓給留在北方的庶族，故孔廟今有南北二宗之分。
今日的南宗孔廟猶如一座博物館，已不見香火。部份建築最近曾修復過，但仍可見到部份舊日的木建築。這裡也有一些石碑，記有明清兩代各皇帝主持重修南宗孔廟的事情。
在城裡吃過午飯，我們到圍棋的傳說中的發原地──爛柯山去。這裡有全世界最大的圍棋棋盤。
爛柯山上，全世界最大的圍棋棋盤 （來源：www.tourzj.com）
之後，我們乘了一個小時的車到衢州割下的江山市。我們住在全市最好的酒店裡，也只是人民幣八十元（打了五折）。江山沒有衢州這麼發達，但也有空調公車。晚上在街上走走，別有一番味兒。由於江山的相對落後，生活節奏比杭州慢，與香港比就更慢得多。街上有很多小吃攤販，更有一群人站在電器店前看電視！
晚飯時，我與其他研究生坐在一起，在一間客房的十二人桌子吃飯。不知不覺，竟談起政治來。他們對政府、黨和過去的領袖有許多不同意見。每次門開了的時候，他們中間就有人叫停，直至門關上為止。我一直不發一言，專心的聽。到最後，我問他們對於現在的中共領導的印象怎麼樣。立時一片死寂。
有個聰明人說：「今天不談國事！」
「但他有言論自由呀！雖然我們沒有．．．．．．」
「但政府也可以把他列為不受歡迎人物，而把他驅逐出境呀！」
到最後，還是由我們中間的一位黨員，對領導人作了一個中肯的評價，說：「他們比過去的領導要開明，而且已經作了不少的改善了。」如此，我們的飯局就劃上了一個句號。
回房間後我們繼續政治討論，不過我還是就此擱筆吧。
原著為英文，中譯本完成於二零零三年十一月十三日
Observations
in
Isaac
Chun Hai Fung
The journey to Quzhou (1): Southern
This was
my first journey away from
Quzhou
is in the Western part of
It took
us three hours to reach our first destination – the
Southern Confucian Temple (南宗孔廟) in the city of Quzhou.
Confucianism had been the mainstream ideology of traditional Chinese society
for more than 2000 years and its founder, Confucius, to whom Chinese people
referred as “The Saint and The Teacher”, had been venerated in the Confucian
Temple in Qufu (曲阜) of Shandong province, his hometown, for ages. So then why was there a
Southern Confucian Temple?
Southern
We had
to go back to AD1126, the year of the “disaster of Jiankang”(靖康之難). When the emperor of Northern Song Dynasty
surrendered to the army of Jin Dynasty (1115-1234, founded by Akutta (完顏阿骨打)
(1069-1123) cheiftain of Nüzhen tribes, the ancestors of
Manchurian or Manchus, in north-eastern China), the
head of the Confucian family, Kung Duan-you (孔端友), the eldest descendent of Confucius in the
48th generation (孔子嫡第四十八世孫),
led his family to move southward to the territory of Southern Song Dynasty.
They settled down in Quzhou and built a
The
temple was now pretty much a museum, rather than a temple. Some parts of it
have been renovated recently, but there were still pieces of old wood
architecture. There were also some stone carvings which were memorials of the
renovations of the temple under various reigns of emperors in Ming and Qing Dynasties.
After lunch
in the city, we went to Mount Lan-ke (爛柯山), the legendry place of origin of the board
game of weiqi (圍棋) (or go, a game played with
black and white pieces on a square wooden board of 361 intersections formed by
19 vertical lines and 19 horizontal lines, with the party scoring more
walled-in points declared as the winner.) There was the largest weiqi board in the world, which was carved on the ground in
the hill.
The largest weiqi
board on earth, Mount Lan-ke. www.tourzj.com
We then
spent an hour on the coach and arrived at Jianshan (江山), a city under the jurisdiction of Quzhou. We stayed in the best hotel in the city at a price
of 80 yuans (~7 pounds) per double room (~50%
discount given). Jianshan was even less developed
than the city of
At
dinner, I ate on a table of 12 with other graduate students in a separate guest
room. Somehow the topic of discussion over the table was politics. They made
many different comments on the government, the Party and its leaders in the
past. Whenever the door was open, one of them would call for a pause until it
was closed again. I kept on listening without making any comments. At the end
of their discussion, I asked them on their impressions of the current
leadership of the Chinese Communist Party. Immediately there was a dreadful
silence.
Then a clever
guy said, “Let’s finish our discussion on politics.”
“Though we don’t have freedom of speech,
he does have so, doesn’t he?”
“But the government can still label him
as an unwelcome person and kick him off the territory.”
In the
end, it was a guy, who was a member of the Party, to give a fair comment on the
leadership, saying that they were more enlightened than that in the past and
they had made a lot of improvements already, and so we had our discussion and
dinner finished.
Political
discussions went on when we went back to our rooms, but I’d better stop writing
here.
This article was originally written in English,
with Chinese translation finished on