This is not a step to step guide for your swap. If you do this swap, you do it at your own risk. Be careful.

Integra parts needed from 86-89 Acura Integra:
Old Parts:
Basically you need the whole Integra rear end from the junkyard. Get the e-brake cables too. The crx cables won’t work. Just leave everything intact on the Integra axle. It makes it easier. Get the brake hoses and any other spare bolts around. You never know when you will need them.

Recommended New Parts:
A lot of WD-40, PB Blaster, etc... its old and rusty
Caliper rebuild kit
Brake disks(if they can’t be machined)
Brake Pads
I didn’t use any new parts, I even used the old pads(they had about 8/32 left) But if it’s broke, now’s the time to replace it.

Parts that won’t work:
Any wheel smaller than 14, possibly 15 inches on Integra disks. To fit 13’s you need to remove the dust plates. (Do this with the hub off the first time. Trust me, you don’t want to rip it apart again)
Integra rear shocks on CRX
Integra rear springs on CRX (too tall)
Integra rear trailing arms
CRX rear drum brake lines on Integra disk brakes

The Swap

Now, we will assume that you have all your Integra goodies, rebuilt anything that needed it,and bought any new parts. Remember, use as many Integra bolts/studs as you can. They will be the ones that will work. Most of the CRX stuff will be too short.

1. Loosen the rear lug nuts. Now, jack the rear of the car up in the air as high as it is comfortable for you to get under it. Use jack stands under the rear lift points(raised lip on pinch weld).
2. Remove the lug nuts and rear wheels and set them aside. If the brake drums are loose at this point, remove them as well. If not thread 2 8 mm bolts into the threaded holes in the drum. This will press the drum off the wheel hub.
3. Remove spindle nut cover in the center of the hub and use a 32 mm socket to remove the spindle nut (this may need considerable force, so use a 1/2 inch air impact if you have access to compressed air. Otherwise a 1/2 breaker bar should work.
4. The hub should slide off now.
5. There are four nuts arranged around the spindle in a rectangular fashion, remove those and cut the parking brake cable. Remove the brake lines. Remove the the brake shoes and support plate, they come off as a unit. This will take some force. Then, throw you drums away!!!!

The Integra rear sway bar is supposedly a stiffer unit. I did not do this on my car so I am not sure. If you are taking yours out, take the two nuts off the connecting link, then remove the two bolts that hold the bar to the axle tube. Go to the drivers side and pop out the axle tube cap and hammer it out.

6. The disk brake support plate is thicker than the drum brake plate.You will need to use the integra studs. Punch the old studs out and install the integra ones. Get the old studs out of the drivers side by hitting them with a hammer. The passenger side studs won't clear the inner flange. Remove the two bolts that hold on the trailing arms, and either remove the bolts from the bottom of the shocks, or remove the nuts from inside the car to let the shock down. Drop the axle out, you can then pivot the trailing arm so that two of the studs are on the short side of the spindle and they can be driven out. Then pivot the other way and drive out the other two.
7. Reinstall the longer Integra studs the same way, put the axle back in the car. Then bolt on the disk brake caliper support plate.
8. If you don’t want your e-brake skip to step 9. Before you reinstall the axle, remove the old e-brake cables. Remove your e-brake handle cover. There are 2 screws on the side and one in the middle. Loosen the adjusting nut and remove the nut that holds on the cable clamp. pull the cables out of the adjuster and out through the body. As previously stated, the crx cables will not work. However, the integra cables are way too long. You need to get creative with your routing here and make it fit. Run the integra cables through the body and do the opposite of what you just did. leave the cover off and the adjusting nut loose for now. Don’t adjust the e-brake until last. bleed the brakes first.
9. Re-install axle.
10. Install the wheel hubs, use the Integra ones. Install the spindle nut and torque to spec. Don't forget to index the hub nut by bending down the flange.
11. Install the discs and calipers.
12. Attach your brake lines. Install your integra proportioning valve as well.
13. Bleed the brakes.
14. Install your wheels.
15. Pump the brakes a lot. you need to make sure you extend the caliper piston before you leave. Road test.
16. Now adjust your e-brake cable. It should get taut about 3/4 of the way through its travel. It should not get tight after a few teeth. You will then most likely get dragging brakes.

I will have my pictures up soon, but this one gives you a pretty good idea what is going on.

Hopefully you now have your project all road tested and complete. You are now probably amazed at your newfound braking power! If not and something is not working write me an e-mail and we’ll see if we can straighten it out. Let me know if you think I am missing anything or said something wrong.
Here they are on my car. It stops better, but it looks a lot better than drums too.

Don’t get too frustrated. I tried to do it in a weekend. I ended up driving my friends car to work on monday. Throwing tools is cool, if it will settle you down. Just remember that the farther you throw, the longer it will take you to find your wrench ;).