Ieper - A Look Back at World War I

July 6, 2003

Ieper (or Ypres) is a town in western Belgium that saw far too much of the trench warfare of World War I. Over one million soldiers died in this area. We decided to go see some of the sites around Ieper. After passing several cemetaries on our way into town, we made it to the Grote Markt (town square), where we had lunch (frites, frites and more frites!) Then we checked out the information center in the town hall. The building, seen below, was completely destroyed during World War I and then completely rebuilt in the same medieval style as the original. On the left you can see the kids exploring a model with their hands. It is meant for blind people to be able to experience the architecture. We have seen several of these models at sites in Belgium.

We decided not to visit the museum (we have heard it is excellent and hope to return), but to head straight for the trenches. We drove to Hill 62, and first visited the monument to the Canadians who fought to take this hill. Then we stopped at the museum. It is a private museum, with one room stuffed full of artifacts piled high (looks like the kinds of stuff we would collect if we were in the same situation - bullets, shells, pieces of blown-up things, etc.) The museum also has three-dimensional photos that you can see by peering into the boxes (seen to the right). The photos are of war scenes, including everything from troops marching in the streets to dead bodies. Quite gruesome, but historically fascinating!

At Hill 62 we were able to walk in the trenches and get a sense of just how difficult and miserable trench warfare was. We found  trenches and tunnels and mud and a sense of disbelief that such a war took place less than 100 years ago.

From Hill 62 we went to a new site, suggested by the nice lady at the tourist information center in Ieper. It is to the north of Ieper, along the canal, in what is now a light-industrial zone. The site was found when excavation was done to prepare for the construction of a warehouse. Surrounded by warehouses, it is a restored site with plenty of signage explaining the underground bunkers that were at this location. From here, English commanders directed the troops. Today the trenches are lined with concrete sandbags, similar to what would have been used in World War I. In the photo on the left, you can see Ellen standing on the type of wooden platforms that were built to keep the men's feet out of the mud. On the right you can see one of the famous poppies from "In Flander's Fields", with sandbags behind it. This was a strange site - very well constructed, but not a tourist site and a strange juxtaposition between the war and today's modern warehouse park.

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