Omigosh, It's Ommegang!

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July 3, 2003

The Ommegang ("walk-around") is an important tradition in Belgium. This is an authentic recreation of a spectacular pageant that was performed in 1549 for Emperor Charles V, his son Philip II and the knights of the Order of the Golden Fleece, upon their visit to Belgium. Ommegang takes places at night at the Grand Place in Brussels.

Because Kevin and Will were camping in England, Laura and Ellen decided to attend Ommegang with friends Dana, Bridget and Jane. We took the train to Brussels and had dinner. The skies kept threatening rain, but for the most part we were able to stay dry.

Ommegang opens with a parade of flags of the European Union. This was quite thrilling, to see such unity centuries after Emporer Charles used force to impose a less peaceful kind of unity.

Much of Ommegang is simply a procession of royals and dignitaries. All of the "Magistrate's retinue" is performed by members of the Association of the Descendants of Brussels Lineages. That means that present-day princes, princesses,viscounts, lords, ladies, etc. dress up in 16th century costumes and parade through the streets of Brussels and around the Grand Place.

Ommegang also includes many forms of traditional Belgian entertainment. On the left is a performance of "banner wairing" (flag twirling), which was quite athletic.

"Giants" are another Belgian tradition, often paraded at Carnival and other celebrations. On the left is a giant knight.

We were also entertained by traditional dancing (right). Below is a photo of stilt walkers. It may be hard to see clearly, but the stilt walkers on shorter stilts are walking under walkers on higher stilts. Later the stilt walkers had a "stilt walkers fight" in which the bump into each other to knock their opponent off their stilts. It was very exciting!

Other highlights of the evening were a funny jester, slices of Belgian cheese tart handed out in the stands, and the parade of the Guilds. The Guilds served as the City police. They included the Fencers, Crossbowmen, Archers, and Bowmen. The Guild of the Great Crossbowmen continues, made up of the heirs and descendents of the original Guild members.

The evening ended with fireworks and dancing around small fires on the Grand Place (can you say "summer solstice?") It was a really magical evening and one of the great celebrations of Belgian history and culture.

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