ASSUMING THE GREEN CHILLI IS THE IMMATURE POD AND THE RED IS THE MATURE POD, THEN THE RED CHILLI WILL BE HOTTER.
THIS CAN BE EXPLAINED BY THE FACT THAT THE CHILLI INCREASES IN HEAT, THE MORE MATURE A POD IS. MOST CHILIES ARE READY FOR PICKING AFTER ABOUT 70 DAYS AND FULLY MATURE AFTER ABOUT 135 DAYS.
THE HOTTEST RECORDED IS THE HABERNARO
CHILLIES ARE MEASURED USING SCOVILLE HEAT UNITS AND BASED ON NUMEROUS TESTS USING LIQUID CHROMATOGRAPHY. THEY ARE INTENDED FOR COMPARING ONLY, BECAUSE THE HEAT LEVEL FROM POD TO POD CAN GREATLY DIFFER. PEPPERS RANGE IN HEAT FROM 0 TO 557,000 SCOVILLE HEAT UNITS. THE LATTER BEING THE HOTTEST PEPPER RECORDED THE HABERNARO, ALTHOUGH IT IS EXTREMELY POSSIBLE THAT A CHILLI COULD MEASURE A LOT HIGHER. CHECK OUT THE UPDATE HERE.
THERE HAVE BEEN NUMEROUS TESTS PERFORMED TO FIND THE ANSWER TO THIS. IN MOST CASES THE PLANTS GROWN IN THE SHADE PRODUCED MORE CHILLIES PER PLANT AND A GREATER WEIGHT PER CHILLI THAN THOSE GROWN IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT, HOWEVER THOSE GROWN IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT PRODUCED HOTTER CHILLIES. CERTAIN VARIETIES OF CHILLI PLANTS GROW VERY WELL IN THE SHADE, PARTICULARLY THE CHINESE AND PUBESCENS.
ALSO TO INCREASE THE PUNGENCY YOU CAN STRESS A PLANT. THE RESTRICTION OF WATER OR OVER WATERING THE PLANT WILL DO THIS, BY INCREASING THE CAPSAICINOIDS IN THE PODS. PUNGENCY IS ALSO INCREASED WHEN THE FRUIT RIPENS AT HOTTER TEMPERATURES RATHER THAN COOLER ONES.
IN CONCLUSION I WOULD SUGGEST GROWING PLANTS AT THE BEGINING IN THE SHADE THEN AFTER ABOUT 70 DAYS MOVING THEM INTO DIRECT SUNLIGHT. THEREFORE GAINING THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS A PLANT WITH GREATER YIELDS AND HOTTER CHILLIES.
