Mikes Seed Starting Tips

The first years I started seeds I had some success and some failures. In the end I lost a lot of plants and ended buying from a garden center again which was very frustrating. Another year was a complete disaster and it was back to the garden center again. Then things began to get a little better. Last year was a huge success. Here is what I have learned from trial and error and a bit of reading.

• Soaking seeds overnight in a paper towel wetted with warm water cuts germination time dramatically. You can also leave them in the towel until they germinate. If you do, you have to check every day for germination. Don't wait for a long root to form, once the seed makes a tiny sprout, get them in the starting medium. Keep the seeds at their optimum germination temp the whole time they are in the towel and the starting medium.
• Start seeds in a seed starting tray with seed starting Medium. Transfer seedlings to cells or pots after one or two sets of true leaves form.. For tomatoes and peppers I use three inch peat pots.
• Handle the young seedlings by the seed leaves, not the stems or the roots. A regular sized spoon will help keep tiny root balls   together.
• Forget the 72 cell inserts for trays. They are too close together and the plants grow leggy straining for light. Three inch pots are much better for plants like tomatoes and peppers. Peat pots work really well and the plants suffer less transplant shock at planting out time.
• If you use fluorescent Lights, be prepared to provide four (4) forty watt lights for four seed trays. Set the timer for 16 hours. More than that they grow leggy. Also keep the lights very close to the plants. About 2 inches from the plants.
• Get a book on Seed starting or plant propagation. I tried for 3 years to start Tritoma Seeds (red hot poker) and never got a seed to germinate. Last year my success was 100 per cent. A lot of the seed packets have general information on starting the seeds. Many require special help to get them going.
• Circulate the air. It prevents fungus from killing everything.
• Once Seedlings are transferred to cells or peat pots, begin watering with diluted fertilizer. I use miracle grow at 25 per cent strength every time I water. Once they are settled into their growing pots, very lightly brush your hand over the seedlings once a day. This makes them grow stronger stems
• If you transfer your plants to a cold frame. Keep a very close eye on the weather reports. My second year I lost 80 per cent of my starts because we had some very warm weather during which I left the frame open, then was caught by surprise by a freezing rain. The following year, I forgot to open the frame one morning when I left for work. The temp soared to 85 F that day and when I got home, everything was baked, dried and very, very dead. I mean the stuff turned gray and crumpled like dust.
• If you start flower seeds early enough, and provide enough light, you can plant annuals that are in full bloom.
• The expensive fluorescent Gro-Light Lamps are not worth the money. After several years of trying these, I switched to GE Cool Whites. You can get 4 for the price of one Gro-light tube and in my opinion, they work much better for starting seedlings.
• I start tomato seeds 8-10 weeks before planting. Pepper seeds 14 weeks. I'm zone 5 here and plant these in the garden the first week of June. Its better to wait a little and avoid any cool weather, you'll be amazed how much better the plants do.

Hardening Off Before Planting

• Harden plants off by putting them outdoors a little at a time. Start 9 days before you intend to plant them out.
• Day 1-2  put them in a shaded place, outside, in warm temps (above 55) , out of the wind, for 2 or 3 hours. Then take them back inside.
• Day 3-4 Same place for 3-4 hours, then back inside.
• Day 4-5 Same place for 2 hours, then a sunny spot with no wind for an hour then the shaded place again for 2 hours
• Day 5-6 Put them in the sun for 4 hours, let some breeze get at them but not a strong wind. Move them back to shade for 2-3 hours.
• Day 7-8 Put them in the sun for 6-7 hours with the breeze. Move them to the shade afterwards. If the night temps will not drop below 60, leave them outside.
• Day 9 plant them out in the garden. Days to Maturity starts with this day.

A Few More Thoughts

• Never let your seedlings dry out completely. At the same time, don't over water. Seeds need moisture to germinate, but you don't want to send them swimming either. A good test is to take a little soil and squeeze it in your hand to make a sort of ball. Water should not come out. When you open your hand, it might stick together, but if you poke it,  it will crumple evenly. This is perfect. If the soil doesn't hold together at all, its too dry.
• Bottom water your seedlings. Use those commercial trays that cost like .97 cents at Wal-Mart, then put your pots, peat pots or cells in those. Add a fertilizer solution  to the tray until the tops of the pots or cells begin to darken. Be patient, it may take a bit for the solution to reach the top. Don't drown the things. Add a half inch at a time until you get the soil to start to darken. This method promotes good root formation.
• Proper temperature aids germination. Find out the right temp for starting whatever seeds  you have and try to provide that temperature during the germination process. Once you have the seedlings transplanted, you have a bit more leeway on the temperature.
• To start with, use commercial soil mixes. Use a Seed Starting Formula for starting your seeds, then use potting soil for transplanting.
• Seed starting is fun, saves you money in the long run and gives you access to plants that you'll never find in the local garden center or nursery. So make it fun. Don't pick out plants that are really hard to grow, until you get some experience. Once you do, you'll be rewarded by being able to handle the more complex stuff easily. Get the basics, then move on.

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