Stocks,
Glazes, Thickening and Binding Agents
FONDS
- STOCKS
Stock
is the most important liquid base used in the preparation of
many dishes such as soups, sauces, stews and braisings. When
correctly made from good-quality fresh ingredients in the
correct proportions, good stock can only enhance the quality
of the dish with which it is used; if badly-made or stale
stock is used, it may ruin the dish — the constant
simmering for days on end with the continuous addition of
dubious ingredients resulting in an indefinable, overcooked,
cloudy and tasteless stock should have no place in the
kitchen.
In
the preparation of stocks which require bones, these should
be as meaty as possible if some sort of body and flavour is
to be imparted; the addition of tougher meats like shin of
beef, old boiling fowls and hocks of raw unsmoked ham or
bacon can be more than justified these days when the general
importance of stocks has never been so high. It should be
remembered that these meats can be removed when cooked and
used later for other dishes.
It
is essential that the ingredients and flavourings used take
account of the ultimate use of the stock; the same
flavourings and their proportions can never be equally
suitable for all stocks. They should be capable of defining
and accentuating the particular qualities of a dish where
they are used to deglaze a cooking-pan or used as a lightly
buttered glaze. Stock cubes and proprietary essences are
useful in an emergency when there is a temporary shortage of
stock, but in general these are not suitable for large-scale
use since they can produce a stock which, being already
seasoned, is against the rules regarding the use of stock.
Produced in the traditional manner stock is very economical
compared with the cost of instant stock.
Care
should be taken in the preparation of stock as follows:
1) For preference use a
stockpot with a bottom emptying tap, this facilitates the
drawing-off of the stock and lessens the possibility of
disturbance and waste.
2) Use fresh ingredients
of good quality and always in the right proportions to give
stocks of reproducible quality and taste.
3) Break meat bones
small so that the maximum of flavour can be extracted and
imparted to the stock. The marrow of any beef shin-bone
should be removed and reserved for other uses.
If any meats are used these should be tied so they can be
easily removed when cooked.
5)
The stock should be brought to the boil slowly so as to leach
out the clarifying qualities of the blood contained in any
meats
6)
As it comes to the boil, remove the fat and scum as it rises
to the surface, then skim regularly; if not skimmed regularly
the stock will become cloudy and dirty in appearance and
taste.
7)
The stock should be allowed to simmer gently; if boiled too
quickly it becomes cloudy and excessive evaporation takes
place.
8)
Top up with cold water as and when necessary.
9)
It is essential that all stocks be cooked for approximately
the required amount of time only. Overcooking can result in a
deterioration of taste and quality. Under-cooking results in
lack of flavour and body.
10)
As a general rule only a very little salt should be added
during the cooking of a stock. Although just a little helps in
developing flavour, even the possibility of too much can
unbalance the seasoning of the dish in which it is used.
SPECIAL POINTS
a)
The addition of eggshells does not enhance the quality or
assist in the clarification of stock which has become cloudy
through lack of care in preparation.
b)The
fat skimmed from stock should be strained, clarified and used
for cooking.
c)
Although it may be thought better to prepare stock on a daily
basis, it can be made twice weekly provided it is cooled
quickly, refrigerated and stored correctly.
d)
To cool the stock quickly before storing in a refrigerator,
stand the container of finished stock on a triangle in a sink.
Run the cold water so that it constantly circulates under and
around the container until the stock is sufficiently cold to
be safely stored.