Family Cruise

By Ilona Biro

We were one day into a week–long cruise through the Hawaiian islands when our son fell in love. It was a classic case of love at first sight, with an older woman named Crash, and before we knew it, they were doing the limbo on the helicopter pad, and cozying up to videos in their pajamas.

Despite the 20-year difference in their ages, Max and Crash were inseparable. And the truth is, my husband and I encouraged their relationship. You see, Crash was the ticket to our freedom. She ran our ship’s children’s program, which entertained Max for hours on end allowing us to enjoy some of the ship’s grown-up pleasures. While we lounged in the spa, Max enjoyed endless pajama parties, magic shows, theme nights, and even a treasure hunt on a coral atoll. Most nights we had to bribe him back to our stateroom with all of our pillow chocolates, (plus extras purloined from housekeeping staff).

Hawaii had been in our holiday plans for a while, but with two tots under five, our dream of a driving holiday was out of the question. Enter Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Star, whose seven-day itinerary stops at Oahu, Kauai, Maui and Hawaii. Instead of long drives with bored kids, we set sail and didn’t worry about a thing for an entire week. What a relief to unpack once, settle in and wake up to a new island each day.

And while cruise ships are famous for elaborate meals served at set hours, the Star caters to families with its trademark “Freestyle cruising”, which allows passengers to dine whenever and wherever they want. That’s a huge bonus when you’re traveling with kids, since our dining schedule depended more on what was happening poolside than the time of day.

We became regulars at the Kid’s Café, with its pint-sized chairs and buffet of hotdogs, hamburgers and chicken. Another favourite was the Blue Lagoon, a 50’s-style diner that’s open 24 hours a day. But if your kids can sit still long enough you can also sample the finest in shipboard cuisine at one of the ship’s 12 restaurants. A week is barely long enough to try them all, but a typical day might include breakfast at Versailles, a sushi lunch at Ginza, and Pacific Rim cuisine at The Soho Bistro in the evening. Needless to say, our gang ate well and often.

While mealtimes made for togetherness, between times we went our separate ways.

On our first walkabout Max had discovered Planet Kids, headquarters for the Kid’s Crew program where Crash, Go–go and a dozen other tireless staff preside over a party that never stops. The 2600-square foot facility puts most indoor playgrounds to shame with a ball room, cinema, computers, arts and crafts studio, and nursery.

In the Martian Pit, enormous inflatable punching bags shaped like funky space creatures are the venue for an ongoing game of tag. Outdoors the Splash Down pool area takes the space theme further with a jumble of colourful planets, rockets and ray guns that enclose pools, slides and showers. Childless adults looked on enviously as the kids frolicked in their private playground, shooting giant jets of water at each other or flying down the water slides.

We often parked ourselves in the whirlpool where moms and dads can lounge with wee babes, listen to the piped-in jazz and feel like they’re getting a real holiday. The ship’s ice cream parlour is just steps away and directly underneath the luxurious Barong Spa and fitness centre allows parents a quick escape to relaxation and pampering. We were regular fixtures on these two decks, bouncing from ping-pong tournaments to swimming pool to spa.

Evenings from 7 to 10 pm the Kids Crew lays on a whole bunch of activities, leaving Mom and Dad free to catch a film, attend a lecture or dine in style. Afterwards there’s even time for a nightcap and a little snog on the deck. What more could married folk want?

Some evenings our paths would cross, and we would spot the Kids Crew roaming the ship, dressed as pirates and chanting their theme song: “We are the Kids Crew, the mighty, mighty Kids Crew…” Another night we caught a glimpse of Max and his pals marching into a circus show in the ship’s ornate Starlight Theatre.

On shore days, most people stay close to the ship and explore the local town. But more adventurous types book shore excursions, which can be as sedate as a bus tour or as thrilling as parasailing. Two of the best were a guided mountain bike ride down the side of Maui’s Hale’akala volcano, and a bus tour to Kauai’s spectacular Waimea Canyon. The most exciting (and expensive) involved a helicopter ride over the summit of Mauna Loa, the world's largest volcano, and Kilauea, its most active.

Our kids were too young for any of those adventures, so we’d rent a car for the day and explore the islands at our own pace. We had a blast doing what came naturally: sampling beaches, spotting pineapple trucks and discovering Hawaiian treats like shaved ice and Hula cookie sandwiches. And we soon discovered we were tracing the routes of many of the shore excursion buses, but at our own, child–friendly pace.

Though we’re no experts on Hawaii, we now have a better idea of what each island offers. Maui seemed ideal for families seeking a wide range of activities – from horse riding to surfing. For the sophisticated traveler in search of nightlife, it’s Oahu with Waikiki Beach. And if your goal is to stand on the rim of a smoking volcano, then the Big Island is your spot.

Our big discovery was Kauai. It’s the most lush — and least developed — of Hawaii's four major islands, with rugged cliffs in the northwest and pristine white beaches along the north and south coasts. Nicknamed the Garden Isle, Kauai is where Hollywood heads when it needs a lush and unspoilt tropical paradise. Think King Kong, Raiders of the Lost Ark and Jurassic Park — all of which were filmed here. Even the island's Wailua Falls gained fame when it was used in the opening credits for TV’s Fantasy Island.

For nature buffs, Kauai is home to the wettest place on Earth (Mount Waialeale), the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific" (Waimea Canyon), and a host of other eye-popping spectacles. Without a doubt, if you like magnificent scenery, Kauai is the place to be.

Our day on Kauai began with a short drive to Waimea Canyon, an awesome sight that Mark Twain visited on a Hawaiian sojourn back in 18XX. After a picnic lunch locals suggested we spend the afternoon at Poipu Beach, regularly ranked as one of the best beaches in the world. Surfers stick to the outer edges of its three golden crescents, but at Poipu Beach Park younger waders can enjoy the calm shallow waters where a lifeguard keeps watch. Next trip, we’ll get to Kauai’s world–famous botanical gardens, hike some of its spectacular trails and learn how to sea kayak below its famous emerald cliffs at Na Pali.

Soon it was back to the ship, to Honolulu, and then home. Sporting a tan, a shark’s tooth and a captain’s hat, Max looked every inch the sailor as he strode off the Star onto Honolulu’s Pier 10. As we took our last look at our ship, he made us pinky swear we’d go on another cruise, really soon.

IF YOU GO:
Norwegian Cruise Lines Hawaiian cruise departs Honolulu on Sundays, throughout the year. There are also 10–day cruises available from Vancouver. Call 1–800–327-7030, visit http://www.ncl.com, or book with your travel agent.