;Making Sirella's Vest\Cape
Sirella's cape is simple and elegant. It can be put together with traditional sewing methods, but the following allows you to make the cape without any lining. Sirella's cape is a variation on the Klingon vests worn by ship captains and heads of Klingon house holds.
The use of a fine material richly embroidered, and the folds on the back of the cape (side vents)gives it a more regal air. Since Sirella considers herself descended from the Emperor, her elaborate cape helps to create the right impression.
The cape is made from three pattern pieces. The first piece panel A. is the duplicate of the front panel of the traditional Klingon vest. The dimensions of the pattern were made for my height. I'm 5 ft. 7 inches. Panel B. is also the same as the traditional Klingon vest. Panel C. should be a minimum of 46 inches wide. And 60 inches long.
The cape requires 4 meters(5 yards) of fabric. You may need an extra 2 meters of fabric if the fabric width is less than 46 inches. You will also need 1 yard of wide bias tape matching the cape fabric. You will also need 71/2 yards of either matching or contrasting bias tape which will be used to bind the armholes and to go from the neck to the ground and around the hem and back up to the neck.
Cut out 2 of panel A. and B. Panel C. will depend on the width of your fabric. If your fabric is more than 46 inches wide it will simply be a fuller cape. If the width is too narrow, simply cut out 2 panels of panel C. in which case you begin by sewing together the 2 panel C. segments using the following technique.
Once you have cut out the cape pattern, measure the width of your shoulders with the costume on that you plan to wear underneath the cape. Once you have determined the shoulder width, cut out the fabric length plus 2 inch for seam allowances, out of a wide bias tape. If you intend to round the neck, mark the center of the bias tape with chalk or marker where the neck hole will be cut out. (Graphic-pic1.pcx)
Next fold the bias tape in four and mark about where you want the large fold to be. Take the top of pattern part C. and pin the end pieces 1/4 inch from the ends of the bias tape. Next, fold the fabric in half, and pin to the center point of the bias tape. Then pin the edges of the fabric to the fold line. Then pin the next piece of fabric one inch from the edge of the neck hole. Fold back the fabric to the fold line and pin in place. Fold the fabric back towards the neck and pin one inch from the edge of the neck. With the remaining fabric pull it out and pin in the center between the last pin and the center neck. With the remaining fabric make a small series of pin tucks using up the remaining fabric.
When everything is pinned in place, sew along the top of the bias tape. Remove all the pins except those at the neck hole. Flip over the bias tape and sew along the neck hole which you marked previously. Remove the pins and cut out the neck hole. Sew a few stitches where you cut through the previous sewing and stabilize the ends.
Sew the bottom of pattern piece A. to pattern piece B. Begin by pinning the wrong sides together. Sew down the edge of the fabric, remove the pins, and cutting close to the sewn edge, cut off the excess fabric. Iron the hem open and then iron the fabric closed with the wrong side of the fabric facing out. Put the zipper foot on to your sewing machine, and sew as close as possible to the edge of the cut seam inside. This seals the raw seam inside the fabric. Press down the seam towards the back of the cape and sew down. (Graphic-pic2.pcx)
You then use the same method for the seams connecting the pattern pieces B. to the bottom of pattern piece C. Using the traditional seam sewing method, sew the shoulder section of pattern piece A. to the pattern piece C. shoulder section. Cut away the excess fabric but not the bias tape. Pin the bias tape over the raw edge and sew down.
The cape is mostly assembled at this point. Put on the costume you intend to wear underneath, and put on the cape. Have someone mark the hem of the cape at this point. Cut off the excess fabric.
Pin on the bias tape to the wrong side of the fabric 1/4 the width of the bias tape from the fabric edge. Pin the bias tape with the wrong side facing you. Sew down the bias tape and press it open with the right side of the bias tape facing you. Then turned the fabric over to the right side and fold the bias tape across the edge. Pin and press the bias tape in place. Sew down the edge of the bias tape and remove the pins. Press the edge again.
When working with the bias tape it is a little tricky to go around the corners. Pin the bias tape up to the end of the fabric. Fold the bias tape at the corner, and pin along the new side. When you get to the corner sew to the bottom edge and reverse the machine locking the end of the seam. You then make a small dart to the center of the bias tape and make a mirror image dart in the remaining half of the bias tape. Begin sewing along the new side of the fabric and continue to the next corner. When the bias tape is flipped to the right side of the fabric it will only require pressing and pinning in place. Because you have already done the dart you can sew the bias tape continuously without stopping on the right side. (Graphic-pic3.pcx)
Sew bias from the neck, down the front panels, around the hem and back up the other front panel. Sew the arm holes in the same way. At this point all the raw edges of the fabric are encased and the cape is basically complete. There are no raw edges inside or outside the cape. The bias tape can be embellished by using a twin needle to create a raised surface.
Because this pattern is so simple it allows for a number of decorative surface techniques to be used. The front panels can be painted with the house emblem or anything that takes your fancy. It also is a good candidate for block printing.
For those more experienced with their sewing machines can use thread embroidery, quilting, applique, cording, and cut work.
The choice of fabric will also change the effect of the cape. Longhaired velvet, teamed with a fur trim, edged with braided leather, suede, or felt, creates a decadent medieval flair which echoes the trim and design from various Klingon costumes. A cape made of ultra suede teamed with cutwork and metal studs gives you a completely different look. In Sirella's case her cape was made of tapestry or corduroy. The cape would also be spectacular in a metallic fabric. Just use your imagination and create something that is Klingon but still distinctly your's.
Gallery of styles of klingon vest/cloaks
The Standard Vest and modifications construction page.