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Using baby powder with cornstarch easily
prevents any yellow stains from the urine. If
the stain underneath is excessive, omit the
vitamin-mineral intake for a time as this is
often the cause.
If a show dog, it is best to tie that section
of the side coat up with plastic and rubber
bands, to save work
CLEANING THE EYE STAIN.Erase or
Eye Care on Cotton Ball and Potato Flour or
Cornflour. If neglected, the hair will become
very stained and brown.
Three minutes only is needed morning and
night to keep puppy perfectly clean and white
under the eyes. Firstly remove sleep from the
eye with a fine comb.
Dampen some cotton wool with "Erase" or "Eye
Care" and apply to stain, rub lightly to so
stained hair is slightly damp. Then apply Potato
Flour or Cornflour beneath the corner of each
eye. Grasp the stained hair between thumb and
forefinger, then rub into hair so that is acts
as an abrasive until hair is dry.
When stained hair has no stain use Potato
Flour or cornflour to dry face whiskers or under
the eyes. A drop of David Eye Brite in both the
eyes regularly will normally control stain from
the dust and wind that can cause eyes to weep.
A common cause of excessive weeping is the
short hair pushing into the eyes as a pup is
growing. I definitely recommend a gentle
plucking of excess hair near the tear ducts only
to clear the area. Never cut the hair if showing
a pup.
If the tear staining is a problem, feel
heartened by the fact that pups always weep
worse than adults' dogs, because once the hair
grows long enough it is easy to train away from
eyes with the hair clip or topknot.
If you don't intend to show your pup you may
find clipping the forehead hair solves this
problem.
BATHING: When bathing your dog,
always have the water just warm and no higher
that three quarters up his legs. Use a good
shampoo. Lather well on both sides of parting,
but try to keep this intact. Start at tail and
do head last, keeping lather and rinse out of
eyes and ears.
Rinse well with clean water and then apply
conditioner and rinse conditioner out. Place
towels around him and blot dry rather the
vigorously rub, paying particular attention to
the ears.
It is a good idea at this stage to a little
leave in conditioner if required. Then place
under hair dryer if possible and brush dry.
CLIPPING: Since the Maltese is
surely the most beautiful of all toy dogs it
does seem a shame to ever cut the hair with
scissors, especially since some types of coat
are inclined to go wavy after being cut. If,
through ill-health, ticks or excessive heat, it
does seem necessary, then this is of course the
kindest treatment for the dog's sake at least.
It is far better to see a short-haired CLEAN
Maltese than a dirty, knotted and matted one. Of
course, it is necessary to cut around the nipple
area of whelping bitches for lactating purposes.
Protect your Maltese from summer of biting, scratching, tapeworms, and general
misery. We first need to know a little about fleas and how they multiply. The
flea has 4 stages in its life cycle: Adult-Egg-Larva-Pupa. The adult flea jumps
on the pet, takes a blood meal and then lays eggs on the pet. As the eggs dry,
they fall off wherever the pet happens to be, hatch into larva, develop into
pupa and new adult fleas. An infestation can occur very quickly with the
introduction of 1 or 2 fleas.
Today's flea-control products are so effective, it's often unnecessary
to go beyond this first step. Try treating your Maltese first, then your
house, saving outdoor flea treatments as a last resort. Here are the pros
and cons of some common first-step treatments:
Flea Comb: A surprisingly effective tool. Frequent use pulls adult fleas away from
pet fur. Crush the fleas with your fingernails or swish the comb through
soapy water.
Pyrethrin: A natural insecticide derived from chrysanthemums. It's nontoxic, and
is one of the only product that's supposed to be safe to use on puppies
and kittens. Pyrethrin is usually sold in a shampoo base and must remain
in contact with fleas for several minutes in order to work.
Flea baths: In general, they're good for cleaning your Maltese, and they're a safe
flea-control option for young animals. But since the insecticide only
works while in contact with the fleas, there won't be a residual
insecticide effect so flea baths alone aren't a good line of defense
against fleas on an adult Maltese.
Sprays, powders, dips: They can be effective, but expose people to high
levels of insecticide.
HeartWorm: Heartworm is a parasite that
uses mosquitoes and dogs as its primary hosts. Adult heartworms live in the
heart and lungs of the dog and produce microfilaria (immature heartworms) which
circulate throughout the body in the blood stream.
When an infected dog is bitten by a mosquito, the microfilaria are ingested
into the mosquito where they undergo several changes and become infective larvae
which are injected into the next dog that the mosquito bites. Heartworm is not a
quick killer of dogs, but rather takes its toll in long-term damage to the heart
and lungs by the adult worms, and microscopic damage to the internal organs by
the circulating microfilaria. Impaired liver and kidney function is common in
dogs infected with heartworm.
A simple, 10 minute test done on a very small blood sample from your dog can
tell if he/she is currently infected. If the test is negative your dog can be
started on monthly preventative medication. This medication will kill the larva
during the first 30 days of their development in the dog, which is why the
monthly dose is effective.
When your Maltese dog Gets Old ... Just like older people, caring for your
elderly Maltese require special health needs, and require a little more care and attention than they did when they were younger.
A little extra time and effort on your part will be well rewarded by continuing good health for them and years of rewarding and loving companionship for you. Fortunately for Maltese owners,
the Maltese being a smaller breed tend to have longer lives than the larger
breed of dog. In general elderly means over eight years old for dogs.
When your Maltese gets older, their organs may become less efficient, and they may be less
able to resist infections and other diseases. I'm sure you as a responsible
owner, will want your Maltese to remain healthy and active for as long as
possible. You should be aware of any condition which might need your
veterinarian's attention. When your Maltese gets older he will naturally be less
active than he was as puppy and young adult and therefore may need less energy
from his diet. A special diet is sometimes needed for him as he grows elderly.
Adjustment in the content of protein he gets might be needed as organs can
become less efficient in dealing with food.
As your Maltese grows older you should make an assessment of his appearance
and behavior. You and your Maltese should absolutely seek the advise of a
veterinarian if he refuses food, has a problem in urinating or is in any obvious
pain. Alert your veterinarian at once if you notice signs such as coughs,
wheezing or breathing difficulties. There are also a number of specific health
problems which you should watch for with your elderly Maltese such as arthritis,
which may develop in his joints. Be careful about the amounts of exercise he
gets - too much could easily make arthritis worse.
Older Maltese are more susceptible to diseases of their hearts and lungs,
also ear infections can occur. Such signs as him pawing at his ear or a
discharge from the ear or him letting out a yelp when petting him close to his
ears could mean problems and should be looked after. Also his hearing may not be
up to par. He may stop obeying your commands simply because he can't hear you.
Eye infections or even blindness in one or both eyes too become more common
as your Maltese grows old. Watch out for discharge from the eyes, or any signs
that sight is impaired, such as bumping into furniture, or when feeding him
something from your hand he has a hard time seeing what you have for him.
Disease of the gums can not only lead to loss of teeth, but may also cause a
more serious condition if the bacteria enters the bloodstream. If the teeth or
gums do not look normal ask your veterinarian's advice, you should examine your
pet's teeth regularly.
Bladder or kidney problems also pose a threat in your elderly Maltese, and
even your pet which has been house-trained for years may suddenly disgrace
itself. This is sometimes due to problems with the nervous system affecting
bladder control, or may be due to a urinary infection. If your Maltese suddenly
becomes incontinent, consult your veterinarian.
Finally, don't forget his yearly booster vaccination. These are just a
few of the main things to look out for. Remember, your dog can't talk and tell
you what's ailing him. Paying attention and being more observant of your
Maltese's actions now could save you heartache and one of your best friends
later.
Housebreaking in your Maltese
Maltese generally housebreak quite easily. The key to good house habits
is consistency by the owner. The puppy should, if he must be left alone, be in
the yard (with shelter and water) or in an area where he is not expected to
refrain from relieving himself. When the puppy is in the main part of the house,
the owner should be present. When the puppy wakes from a nap, he should go
outside and be praised when he relieves himself.
Watch the puppy for sniffing and circling in the house, this probably means he is looking for a place to go.
Take him outside and again praise. If you catch him too late, "in the act", do
not spank him but scold him slightly and take him outside or to a place that he
is allowed to potty. Soon the puppy will go to the door and "ask" to be let out.
Praise the puppy for this action. A crate is a handy tool for housebreaking.
Most dogs do not like to relieve themselves where they sleep and this teaches
some control. Do remember that a puppy does not have a great deal of control and
use the crate only for short periods of time. When he comes out of the crate, he
should be immediately let outside and after he relieves himself, allowed to play
in the house.
Maltese develop elimination habits during their first few months of life.
Being creatures of habit, dogs will return to their "usual spot" whenever
it is convenient.
Maltese can be conditioned (trained) to react to a conditioned stimulus in
a certain way. (they can be taught to eliminate when you say a word over and
over). A behavior is likely to be repeated if it is positively reinforced. (You
will therefore be using food treats and praise to reinforce elimination at the
proper time, in the proper place .
To some people a dog crate seems like cruelty to the dog. However, if
presented correctly, it is just the opposite. It gives your Maltese a place that
belongs to him, a safe den where he can go if he wants to be left alone or rest.
It also give you a place to keep your Maltese at the times when you do not want
him underfoot, and a safe way of traveling your dog. If you crate your Maltese
in the car, he can be left with the windows completely down. It is extremely
dangerous to leave your Maltese in a closed car in warm weather or ride loose in
the back of a truck. Also if you should have an auto accident, your dog is not
likely to be thrown out of the car or escape in the confusion. Motel rooms
generally prefer crated dogs, also. To crate train your Maltese, first select a
crate which will be large enough to fit him as an adult. The puppy should be fed
in his crate, and encouraged to sleep in it with the door open. He may be left
with the door closed for short periods of time once he is used to it. Avoid
leaving a Maltese puppy in a crate for extended periods of time. NEVER
use the crate as a punishment. The location should be out of the way but near
family activity.
The goal for "house breaking" your Maltese is to
have it "potty" outside and not inside your house...right? Why do so many people
train their dogs to do it inside ???. Let me explain further...people use the
"old" newspaper method in some cases until their Maltese are 4 to 5 months old,
this is wonderful. It saves their floors from getting messed up...you bet...but
it's also "IMPRINTS" the dog that its 'OK" to eliminate inside the house. Think
about it, sure the dog will relate the scent of "printers ink" to elimination,
but what does that have to do with "GOING OUTSIDE" ?.
Keep your Maltese puppy up on a "consistent" housebreaking schedule. Feed
at the "SAME" time ever day. Designate one area outside as a "potty" area. Take your Maltese out every 2 hours to the "potty" area, whether it has
eaten or not.
The times that a puppy will most likely want to eliminate are after eating
or drinking, after a nap, or after a period of play or vigorous exercise.
Make up a written time log showing feeding and trips to the "potty" area,
this really helps.
Bring the puppy on a leash to the designated area. Initially you want to
teach the puppy what the words "go potty" mean, but don't distract the puppy
from its business by constant "YAPPING"...be quiet...say "go potty" just
before you see it is about to, say "good Potty" (not too loud or distracting)
as it eliminates, and then get really excited and be as loud as you wish,
saying "GOOD POTTY" once the puppy has done the "business"....and give it a
treat . I suggest "moist flavorful treats as opposed to the dry kind.
The two most important words in house training are "WATCH" or "CONFINE".
Never give a puppy full run of the house, start in a small area like a utility
room or a small pen, don't graduate to a larger area until it has PROVEN (no
accidents) itself in that area for a period of time. "Watching" means
....CONSTANTLY being aware of where the puppy is.
Get yourself a suitably sized "Crate" the same day you buy your puppy.
It's not inhumane or cruel (cruel is constantly reprimanding, scolding and
possibly getting physical with the puppy for eliminating inside the house). DO
NOT fill the entire floor area of the crate with newspaper or bedding of any
kind, just put make a 1/4 of the crate a 'Bed", if you wish. Always make sure
the crate is in a well ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Also, if you
live in colder climates, be sure the room temperature stays fairly constant,
not too hot...or too cold.
NEVER BE PHYSICAL WITH A PUPPY FOR ELIMINATING INSIDE... In fact..."never"
be physical with your puppy ...period. Being overly physical with your Maltese
will make it not want to perform in front of you, and will actually cause the
puppy to leave gifts for you out of your sight .You know... "the ones your
dinner guests find behind the furniture"
You can start a very young Maltese puppy on newspaper, but get rid of the
paper as soon as you can and begin formal crate training. Be patient,
consistent, and diligent in taking the puppy outside, regulate what goes into
your puppy's tummy, so you can regulate what comes out. "WATCH" or "CONFINE" ,
gradually extend your pups living area, keep track on your "housebreaking log"
and in a matter of a few short weeks....PRESTO !!! No more Accidents.
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About Me
My interests include spending time with my Pets, being with my family, using the computer and when time permits, work on Amateur Radio.
Perhaps I should explain what Amateur Radio is!
First though, here's some photos of my Amateur Radio equipment and my computer set up.
 
My Amateur Radio licence permits me to talk to anyone within the Amateur Radio bands via voice or by Packet Radio via computer.
I am the System Operator (Sysop) of the local Packet radio Bulletin Board Station (BBS).
Packet Radio is much like sending Emails, though only to other Amateurs.
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In a large bowl combine all the ingredients: Chicken, carrot mixture, lentils, brown rice.
For a bit of a change add small cooked pasta and the chicken can be changed
and use turkey breast instead. This is a great recipe and the dogs will love
it. Veterinarians also approves it as an additive to their regular food. Each
of the dogs get less than 1/3 of a cup per day with their meal.
