Restoration of a Nordmende Tannhäuser 57

This page documents the ongoing restoration of a Nordmende Sterling Tannhäuser 57 USA radio. This is a German-made tube radio from 1957. It was purchased as a gift for my father-in-law who had one when he lived in Germany. I am in the process of restoring it and am documenting the process in this web log. I will update this every few days so come back regularly and check on the progress. Scroll down to the bottom for the most recent log entries.

Radio Description

Model: Nordmende Sterling Tannhäuser 57 USA (1957 model year)
Tube lineup: ECC85, ECH81, EF89 (2), EM35, EABC80, ECC82, EL84 (2)
Bands Covered: AM broadcast (550-1600KHz), long wave (150-350KHz), shortwave (5.5-10.5MHz), FM broadcast (88-108MHz)
Front panel controls: Volume/Bandwidth, Tuning/Direction Finding, Bass, Treble, OFF/PHONO/Tape Recorder/LW/Direction-Finding/BC/SW/FM, Bass/Speech/Presence/Orchestra/Solo/Jazz
Rear panel jacks: AC power, FM Antenna, 120/240V, External antenna and ground, Phono Input, Tape Recorder Input, Tape Recorder Playback, Speaker Output (7000Ω and 4.5Ω)
Antennas: internal AM and FM with connectors for external antennas
Speakers: 4
Dimensions: approx. 17x26x12 inches (HWD)
Weight: approx. 15kg/33lbs
Special features: magic eye, direction finder

The radio is housed in a wooden case with glass dial, plastic trim, and beige grille cloth. The appearance is typical of German sets of this vintage. It is larger and heavy than average.

It receives AM broadcast, long wave, shortwave, and FM broadcast bands. The FM is monophonic. Stereo was not introduced until the 1959 model. The AM bands use a 460 KHz IF frequency and FM uses 10.7 MHz.

It has an EM35 "magic eye" tube to assist in tuning in stations, a common feature on higher-end German radios.

There are two bandwidth settings, selected by pushing or pulling the volume knob.

There are five speakers -- one large one with good bass response on the front left, an electrostastic tweeter on the front right, and two midrange speakers on each side of the cabinet.

The "direction finder" is an unusual feature. When the Direction Finding button is depressed, it switches to an internal antenna which is rotatable over a range of 360 degrees via the Direction Finding knob. An azimuth type indicator shows the orientation of the antenna. Via the tuning eye you can determine the direction of maximum signal strength.

As received the radio was electrically complete except for a line cord (a cheater plug type). The cabinet was in good shape although the top has some crazing of the varnish and wear in spots. It was quite dusty inside with no signs of any previous restoration or repairs.

Nordmende (short for Norddeutsche Mende-Rundfunk GmbH) is the manufacturer. It is one of the most respected and collectible Germany radio manufacturers, alongside Grundig and Telefunken. The company was formed by Martin Mende in 1947 and manufactured radios, televisions, and test equipment. It was a family business run by the founder and later his sons. Facing increasing competition from larger rivals it was sold to the French company Thomson Brandt in 1977.

The model name, Tannhäuser, comes from the opera by Richard Wagner. Several Nordmende radios of that era had operatic names such as Carmen, Caruso, and Rigoletto.

The original German retail price for the radio in 1957 was 478 DM. At that time this was approximately US$114 and with inflation equivalent to about US$768 today.

This is the US model. As compared to the European model, I think the only visual difference is that the front and rear controls and connectors are labelled in English and the line cord is a North American type. The input line voltage is switch selectable for several voltages so it could be used anywhere in the word. I've read that the German model had a limited FM band that only covered 87-100MHz rather than the full 88-108 MHz used in North America. This web page has a design for an FM band extension circuit.

Outstanding To Do List of Restoration Tasks

Completed items are striked through.
  1. Initial inspection of radio.
  2. Initial "smoke test" with variac and current meter.
  3. Scan circuit diagram and alignment info.
  4. Look for circuit diagram and manual on Internet or purchase.
  5. Clean chassis.
  6. Replacement line cord.
  7. Replace selenium rectifiers with silicon diodes or bridge.
  8. Clean controls with contact cleaner.
  9. Lubricate all moving parts.
  10. Test all tubes using tube tester.
  11. Replace electrolytic capacitors.
  12. Replace wax paper capacitors.
  13. Measure resistors and replace any that are out of spec.
  14. Test all functions.
  15. Check and replace pilot lamps, as required.
  16. Replace missing fuse with correct value.
  17. Clean cabinet.
  18. Wax cabinet.
  19. Perform alignment.
  20. Run for several hour burn-in test.
  21. Take pictures with digital camera.
  22. Make copy of all documentation and notes on what was done to keep with the radio.
  23. Hand it over to the new owner.

Web Links

Web Log Of Restoration


08-Jun-2005


09-Jun-2005


15-Jun-2005



The big box arrives:

Inside the box, packed well with peanuts:

Out of the box, front view:

Another front view:

Rear view:

Closer look at front panel:

Rear view with back removed:

16-Jun-2005


17-Jun-2005



FM converter section is shielded. FM broadcast frequencies was pushing the limits of tube technology of that time.

Voltage selection switch. Look, it has a fuse!

The rotatable antenna used by the Direction Finding feature.

More of the insides before any cleaning has been done:

Pushbutton switch assembly:

Large speaker:

One of two small speakers on the sides:

I think this is an electrostatic tweeter:

Convenient labelled test points at the back:

Another rear view of the chassis and you can see the 120/220V switch.

Various coils stick out of the bottom of the chassis:

You can see the two EL84 output tubes, popular with audiophiles:

18-Jun-2005

Time for the "smoke test". Electrical engineers know that electronic devices run on magic smoke. This theory is proven by the observation that if the magic smoke leaks out, they stop working.

I did some resistance checks of the AC input and found that the fuse was blown. Not a good sign but it doesn't mean a lot. With the power switch on the resistance looks okay so it should be safe to power it up.

I powered it up slowly with a variac and current meter in 10 volt steps recording and watching the current. This is in case a part such as an electrolytic capacitor should fail by shorting and cause other damage such as destroying the expensive power transformer. Slow power-up can also re-form old electrolytic capacitors that have not been used for a long time.

At around 50 volts input I could see a pilot light glowing and some tubes starting to light. At 70 volts I could hear some hum from the speaker indicating the audio amplifier was working. There was some static but no stations on AM. I tried FM and I heard music! When I pressed the BC button again AM broadcast also started working -- the switch was just dirty. Overall the radio appears to be functional although I did not try all the controls. I increased the voltage slowly up to 110 volts. Current seems to be well within the 1 amp fuse rating marked on the radio.

AC Input Current Measurements
Voltage (volts)Current (amps)
100.06
200.11
300.14
400.15
500.18
600.21
700.28
800.37
900.44
1000.52
1100.61

Other things noted: all tubes light up, one of the two pilot lamps was not working (easy to replace). There is no noticeable hum so the power supply filter caps must be working okay. The magic eye was working but not very bright -- this is expected as these tubes do get dim after not too many hours of use. The sound quality, especially on FM, is excellent. All four speakers are working.

I decided not to press my luck and turned it off. It really needs a good cleaning of all the accumulated dust inside. All in all, good signs that this radio will not be hard to restore.


Here is a picture of a portion of the schematic I pasted together:

I scanned the schematic and did some cleanup of the images using the GIMP image editor. The don't look too bad but there are some missing pieces.


19-Jun-2005

Sams has two Nordmende Tannhäser schematics available but no indication of what year (in Sams 531-8 and 638-12). Cost is US$20 each.

I heard back from oldradios.com. They have the schematic. From their reference number it is from Sams 638-12. I will go ahead and order it.

The radio uses European tubes which have equivalents in the North American numbering system. Here are the equivalents:

Tubes with America Equivalents
EuropeanAmerican
ECC856AQ8
ECH816AJ8
EF896DA6
EABC806AK8
ECC8212AU7
EL846BQ5
EM356CD7

The EM35 eye tube is one of the rare and expensive ones to replace. A new (NOS) one is about $50-$80 from on-line tube stores.

Fuse needed: 1A 250V 5mm x 20mm. I found a 2A fuse to use temporarily.

Pilot lamp is threaded base 7V 0.3A marked MF150. Looks like type 46 T-3 1/4 miniature screw base.

Did some cleaning of chassis, tubes, and front panel (what I could reach without disassembling radio).

Long wave, short wave, and other functions all appear to work okay.


23-Jun-2005

Received schematic but it is for the 1963 model, which is significantly different. I posted a message to the forums at antiqueradios.com to see if anyone has one.

25-Jun-2005

The other schematic in Sams is apparently for the 1961 model. I made a large printout of the German schematic I have and am looking at the differences, which are quite minor. Between that and the incomplete schematic I have, I should be okay.

Here are differences I noted between the German and US model:

Tonight I removed the chassis and cleaned inside. I found a piece of the schematic which filled in the largest missing portion. I cleaned and oiled the switches

You can't just pull the chassis out and work on this radio on the bench like you can with AA5 radios. However, most components can be accessed from the underside through an opening in the case after sliding out a metallized cardboard shield. I guess you have to think differently with these European radios.

It was tricky to get it apart and back together. A nut seized up and I had to take the tone switches out again, loosen the speaker board, replace the nut, and fool with them for a while until it was all back together.

The cord appears to be the standard 5/16" cheater plug. It tried one from another radio and it fit but it was quite loose. Probably best to permanently attach a new cord.

I tested the tubes and got these measurements. Some may not be accurate -- the only real test is in a radio.

Tubes Testing Results
TubeMeasurement
ECC8586 70
ECH8170 70
EF98110
EF89failed short test?
EABC8049 88 88 72
ECC82135 135
EL8485
EL84100
EM35not in any of my tube charts

I noticed while it was playing there is intermittent changes in volume. Wiggling a tube seemed to help. This will likely get fixed when radio is recapped and tube sockets cleaned.

I took a few pictures when it was on the bench.


26-Jun-2005

Replaced line cord with new one. Hardwired it in.

Doing cleaning and lubricating underside of chassis.

Rectifiers are selenium in a metal can. The "experts" have conflicting opinions on whether to replace them. If they fail they should blow the fuse. If replaced with modern silicon diodes and series resistor is need to compensate for the lower voltage drop.

More pictures. These are really intended to be of use to me if I later need to check how some wiring or components were connected.


27-Jun-2005

Replaced the selenium rectifier unit with a modern silicon diode bridge (from my junk drawer). The selenium type are notorious for failing, burning, and causing an unbelievably bad smell. It conveniently fit onto a terminal strip. The old rectifier was disconnected but left in the chassis. Voltages appear to be okay but I will do more testing later. The voltage selector is set for 125V which should partially compensate for the lower voltage drop of the silicon bridge.

After cleaning the tube pins and sockets there are no intermittent connections there, but the BC switch still sometimes needs to be played with to get a good connection.

I see a couple of EM35 tubes on ebay, so that may be a good avenue for buying one more cheaply than the tube stores.


27-Jun-2005

Bought some replacement fuses at Canadian Tire. Also bought some bulbs -- but I didn't look at the package carefully enough. They were flashing bulbs! They look very strange when installed as dial lights. Also ordered the electrolytic capacitors that are needed from justradios.com. I didn't have the right values on hand.

5-Jul-2005

Electrolytic capacitors arrived. I replaced the three large (50 uF) power supply filter capacitors. They would not fit inside the original capacitor so I removed the insides of the original capacitor, reinstalled it, and mounted the new ones externally under the chassis. Two smaller caps remain to be done.

One wax paper cap was replaced the other day. A couple of others should be done too. Also did some cleaning of the cabinet.

Have been watching some EM35 "magic eye" tubes on ebay. They have been selling for almost the same price as from the tube stores, so I may just order one from a store since it will come from a reputable source with a warranty...


6-Jul-2005

I thought I would double check that the eye tube was the EM34 listed on the schematic. It isn't -- it is an EM35! This is the same one listed on the German schematic. Maybe it is a production change. In any case it is a good thing I noticed. The EM35 IS a little cheaper and easier to find than the EM34. Compatible tubes are 6U5, 6T5, 6H5, and 6G5.

I also replaced another electrolytic cap.


6-Jul-2005

Replaced the remaining electrolytic cap.

Earlier today the other dial lamp started working, but later stopped again. Checking it carefully with an ohmmeter it measured as open.

I ordered some dial lamps from Antique Radio Supply.


7-Jul-2005

The front right speaker did not appear to be working. I removed it to take a look. It is definitely an electrostatic type speaker. It has high impedance and is connected across the primary of the output transformer. That also means it has about 200VDC across it! I blew the dust out of it and played with the wires and it started working again. It is basically just for high frequencies, i.e. a tweeter.

Measured most of the resistors and did not find any that were out of spec.


20-Jul-2005

Received pilot lamps today and installed two new ones (#46 type).

20-Jul-2005

I put the bottom and back covers on and took a few more pictures.


12-Aug-2005

I finally located an EM35 eye tube on ebay. The seller was located in Argentina, of all places. The tube arrived today and was installed in the radio. It is very bright (much brighter than the old one but it is hard to tell in the pictures) and appears to be a NOS tube in original box. It was made by Telefunken and is identical to the one originally in the radio.

I believe that wraps up the restoration of the radio. It is now ready for its new owner. Of course I will visit it occasionally.