KOHISTAN "LAND OF MOUNTAINS"
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A Traditional Account of the History of Kalam, Swat

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Namroz Khan of Yajgal, Kalam

Recorded by: Gul Rehman and Muhammad Zaman Sagar

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Raja Gira, the forefather of Gawri tribes in Kalam and Dir Kohistan

Once my father told me to look at his gums that might be some swelling him feels? When I looked his new teeth were coming out. When I inquired from the well known peoples they told me that his age is reached to one hundred and sixty years. In this stage the coming out of the new teeth is shown that he is now one hundred and sixty years old. I spend my whole life with him and what I learn from him, that we are belonging to the Quresh tribe of Arabia. We came from Arabia and the Gira was the great great grand father of our great great grand father. He fled from Islam and came here. The Muslims chase him from one place to another. He ran away from them and reached to Brikot and he chose that place. He bought some property and built a fort there. He also made the earthen pipes and brought the water under the ground from Shagai Saidu Sharif. Mehmood of Gazna stays ay Shamozai Swat and from there he was attacking the Gira but he could not succeed to defeat him. One of the daughters of Gira was converted to Islam. His daughter gives information to the army of Mehmood that his father brought the water under ground and they should stop the water supply for him. She said that they should break the earthen pipes then the water shortage will starts. They had the big pots for water storage that is why they had enough water for seven days.

When on seventh day the water finished they came out from that forte. When they came out from the fort Mehmood and his army chased them and they ran away. In the night of their escape, the daughter of Gira felt disgrace. One white stone is still present near to that Stopa. God willing, until this day (this stone) can be found and it will be oily and can be used as a cure. Raja Gira and his companion ran away towards "Mulazay Kohistan" (in Dir) and reached a place called Patrak. In Pashto that place called Patrak and in our language we called Rajkot. In Rajkot he came and had stay in a mountain. In that mountain there was a tree of pine and the roots of that tree were reached to the plane land. They climbed on that root and reached to the top. From there they went to Lamoti. Gira spent much time in Lamoti. Gira had a son and his name was Bira and Bira's sons were Khes and Keen. The children of Keen were left there and the children of Khes came to Kalam.

Why the Khes did come to Kalam? The two brothers had fought for a piece of land in Mathool that is why Khes came here and Keen left there. Keen left there and Khes occupied a piece of land behind the Tehsil in Kalam Kas and lived there. Two of his wives were also come with him. Keen waited there for a long time but his brother did not come, then he came out for his search and found him in Kas. He met with him and requested him to go back to Lamoti. Khes tolled him that it is not your Mathool but it is my Kas. Khes was busy in plowing but when he saw his brother he left the bulls and came to embrace his brother. Keen said that bulls might break the plough share but he said that there is no place in my field that can cause the breaking of the plough share. Keen did not increase conversation with him about his return. He spent night there and next morning he went back to his village and thought that his brother might not return.

How Kaal and Khes meet each other and divided the area

The wives of Khes tolled him to see the whole area. They said that you not went with your brother and if this place is belonging to someone else then it will become a problem for us. He walked around the area and in NeR he saw the smoke from a place. When he reached near he saw a man was busy in making the new fields. He thrown stones at that man and pressurized him that what he is doing here. That man asked him that where did he comes from. He said that he came out of this hole. That man put hand on his head and tolled him that the land is too much and is enough for both of them. Khes asked him that who is he? That man said that his name is Kaal. Khes told him that if he wants to give me the two shares out of three then the name of this area will be on his name and if he wants to get two shares then the name of the area will be on Khes's name. When Khes made that fraud with him then he said that name of the area should be on his name. Two shares decided to give to Khes and one share Kaal got. That is why Dara Khel tribe of Kalam gets third share. The Dara Khel of Utror gets fifty percent share. The Dara Khel of Ushu also gets the fifty percent. The Dara Khel of Behrin has also the same share. Khalkot, Thal and Lamoti's Dara Khel also gets the fifty percent shares. But the Dara Khel of Kalam gets the third share. They are getting third share because of Kaal.

Kaal came from Chitral

The forefather of Dara Khel came from Chitral and our forefather came from Lamoti and originally from Arabia. Kaal came from Chitral. Kaal and Baal both are brothers. They came from Chitral to Siri Kalam and lived there, that place is little bid ahead of Mahodand and situated near to the boundary of Chitral. That place called Sri Kalam and they lived there for some time. One day the daughter in law of Kaal went for water and she found a corn of wheat there. When she went for water she found that wheat corn. They brought that to their father-in-law and said that such a place is also somewhere where this corn is ripe now. Kaal ordered all the peoples to go down to find that place and stay there. They came down from that place and reached to Zimet. From Zimet the Kalam was looked like a pool and the season was spring. They spent two or three days then Baal became disgrace and said to his brother that he want to go back. They insisted that he should not return but he not agreed. When he plan to go then they had face some problem to divide the sheep and goats. They had a lot of sheep and goats. There mother said that she will go to the middle of the herd and will shake her arm which goats and sheep go upwards they belong to Baal and which go downwards they belong to Kaal. When she shakes her arm the sheep went upwards and the goats went downwards. The goats had left with Kaal and Baal went back to Chitral. Baal lived in Chitral and Kaal divided all the property with Khes and then after some time Baal came back to Kalam. Here he demands his share from Kaal but Kaal refused. The ancestors of Kaal called Dara Khel; he divided all property with Khes. Baal came after the dividance. They are the brothers of each other but Baal came after the dividance. Kaal said to him that he divide the property with Khes now after the dividence your demanding share from me. The ancestors of Baal have not any tree or any other land belong to them in Kalam.

 The tribe of Baal called Baalor and the tribe of Kaal called Kalam Khel or Dara Khel. In the ancestors of Khes, he had two sons one was Nila and second was Jaafal. The tribe of Nila called Nilor and the tribe of Jaafal called Jaafalor. Jaafal had four sons that are why Jaafalor have four branches, one was Muhabat, Shargan, Qadir and the fourth one was Salim. One of the Nila's sons was Mirza and one was Ahmad. The tribe of Salman called Salmanor, the tribe of Mirza called Mirzor and the tribe of Ahmad called Shagir Pur. The three branches of Nilor are Shagar Pur, Salmanor and Mirzor. Nila had two sons one was Mirza and the second one was Ahmad. Ahmad had three sons Salman, Sultan Shah and Shah Garif, The tribe of Sultan Shah called Chukanor, the tribe of Salman called Salmanor and the tribe of Shah Garif called Shagar Pur. Mirza had three sons too, Arang Shah, Muhammad Mir and Amir. The three sons each of Mirza and Ahmad become six grand sons of Nila. The share of Nilor is also divided in six parts.

Accounts of the sub-tribes of Kalam

The both sons of Bira Keen and Khes were not Muslims. The Dhonsh was the son of Keen. One of his sons was Dhonsh and one was Khoshal. Like Mirza and Salman are the sons of Nila, like them he was also the son of Keen. Khoshalor etcetera came later to that area. The son of Raja Gira was Bira and his sons were Keen and Khes. The sons of Khes were Nila and Jaafal, and the sons of Keen were Dhonsh and Khoshal. The seventh branch of Nilor Khel called Chinor Khel and they came from China. When they came here first they became brothers with Dara Khel. From that time they spent their most life with them. In the time of Malik Mulla the peoples divided in two groups. One group was belonging to Malik Mulla and the other group was belonging to Shot Malik and Bani Khan Malik. The peoples of Kalam divided in two group and civil war starts in the area. In this war Dara Khel had beaten and they fled away. Chinor Khel merged into the Nilor but they were taking their share from Dara Khel. They had only one share because they came late.

Mulla Khel tribe of Jailband

After the fight with Torwalis Kalamis give some land to Mulla Khel and some they bought. Mulla Khel are not the proper share taker of this area only they bought some property from Kalamis. The Mulla Khels came from Nangi Khel of Swat and settled here. First they came for trading. During the trading they bought some property from the peoples. The Kalamis took Desan Pasture from Utroris and give a share to Mulla Khel. The two meadows which Kalamis give to them are Ochar and Cham Banda. One another meadow Darar also given to them. But now the Mulla Khels also demanding for seventh share in other places too. Two meadows given to the Ustador tribe which came before Mulla Khels.

Ustador peoples came from the plains of Swat and requested Kalamis to become there brothers. They demand for such a place where they could live without the cattle. All the Kalamis become united against the down peoples to resist there attack. The Kalamis said to the Ustador tribe that they should choose a good place for themselves in the territory of Kalam. The leader of Ustador smelled the soil in different places. Near to the mount of Gahil he smell the soil and requested the Kalamis to let him live in this place that he could also look after for some goats and sheep. When he chooses that place some of the Kalamis were in doubt that might be he is some spy. The peoples were thinking that he wants to spy from the mount of Gahil. The peoples tolled him that the down peoples are attacking on Kalam from this place because that is the boundary between Kalamis and Torwalis. Can you live here? He said that he understood about the doubt of Kalamis over him for spying. He said that he is not a spy and before the Kalamis he will sacrifice him for the sovereignty of Kalam. He starts to live there and starts the profession of blacksmith. That is why the peoples were saying him (Ustad) means the master.

Imam Khel tribe

The Imam Khel peoples came to Kalam as a teacher of religious teacher and the Molvis. In the reward they took maize from the peoples. When they attended the funeral parties they took (Iskhat) from the peoples. In those days the peoples were giving cattle instead of money for Iskhats. The Imam Khels were blowing holy verses on the peoples against the evils and was making the amulets. The royalty of forest is divided in seven parts two parts for Nilor, two for Jaafalor, two for Dara Khel and one for Mulla Khel's. The dividence is in this shape.

In the time of our forefathers, When Nila and Jafal were living here that time Mehmood of Ghazna handed over the area of Kalam to his deputy Mian Qasim. Mian Qasim preached Islam here. The Islam spread after that time in Kalam.

Chinor Khel came from China

When the roots of Islam became strong here that time the Chinor Khel came from China to Kalam. The Kalamis compelled them for converting to Islam. They said that they runaway from Islam and came here. Now here you peoples compelling us to convert to Islam. We will become Muslims but after some time. We have a requested you peoples should accept this. They said that they had a bear first they want to roast the liver of that and eat after that we will become Muslims. They killed that bear in the mount of Gameer. That time they were only two peoples and both were the brothers. The name of one brother was Aalom and second was Shalom. That time they were not Muslims. They killed the beer in Gameer and said that first of all they will eat it. First we will roast the liver of beer and then we will become Muslims. They eat the liver of beer and after that they become Muslims. In Kalam we are saying them Chinor and in Behrin the same tribe called Chinot. The Chinor of Kalam and the Chinot of Behrin are belonged to one tribe. They also become Muslims late that is why the peoples call them Chinot. All this is the same Kohistani language but only there is a little different in dialect.

The war between Gawris and Torwalis

I remembered when government came to Kalam and again went. I not remembered the fight between Kalamis and Torwalis but I heard the stories from my elders. The Torwalis were claiming that the Kas Kalam is belonging to them and they are the brothers of Kalamis. They were also claiming that the area across the river is belonging to Kalamis and the other side is belonging to Torwalis. The Kalamis requested them that they should not make any problem for them because this area is belonging to Kalamis.

The Torwalis said that they stopped the Khans of Swat to attack you, we not letting them to go upwards. The Kalamis went from here in two groups and the Torwalis also divided in two groups. The half peoples gathered in the place of Mishku Gat in a trench. The other peoples were looking after a trench in the place of Sur Baat. They made trenches in Sur Baat and stopped the government for going upwards in this place now many houses built. After that time the Torwalis made a fraud and came to Asret to attack on Kalamis. In the place of Asret both tribes fought with each other and in this fighting three and four Kalamis were martyred. The Torwalis came for the purpose of occupying the Kas Kalam. From there the Kalamis put to rout the Torwalis down and in this fighting many peoples killed too.

They runaway from there but after some time in the darkness they again attacked on Kalam Bazaar and occupied it. When they occupied the Kalam Bazaar the Kalamis went back to the forest. They sent the women before to hide in the forest. In that fighting also many of the peoples were killed and many were wounded. My grand father told me that his brothers were also wounded. They were sitting in one trench in Shanpat. In the front of there trench there was some small trees of Deodars (Cedrus Deodara). Next morning the peoples found them wounded, then the other day the peoples of Thal and Lamuti also arrived. They came and were bringing those dead bodies. They took the wounded peoples away to Thal and the dead bodies they buried in Kalam. When they took my grandfather and his brother and when they reached to the bridge of Bahan they call that they should put them down from the Charpais. When they kept the Charpais down the one brother died and in some while the other one also died. Some of the Thilis and the Lamutis went back with the injured, which left here the Kalamis said to them that they should also go now we can bear what is coming on us. When the Kalamis looked down to the Kalam Bazaar they saw that this was full of Torwalis and the Kalamis became very sad. In Shanpat only some one hundred and forty peoples which could fight.

The brave ones were coming ahead and the coward ones were going backward. Some times out of these one hundred forty peoples some time forty or twenty were coming ahead. At last all the peoples gathered and they brought the coward peoples to middle and the brave peoples spread around them. They tied one's cloak with other and they made a big line. Because they were thinking that nobody should runway. That is why all the peoples gathered in the peak of Shanpat. They sent the ladies back in the forest because of the fear of Torwalis. From this place they throw stones down to the village then the torwalis runaway, the strong ones dived in the river. There was too much rush that is why some peoples didn't find a place in the bridge they jumped on the heads of the other peoples. Some sixty Torwalis came into the Mosque.

Among the Torwalis one of the men was called Sadiqa. When the youngster of Kalam was in Shanpat the Sadiqa was dancing in the gullies of Kalam. He was shouting that youíre taking walnuts or the bag of potherbs. In Kalamis there were two brave peoples one was called Qalandar and second was belong to the Baalor Khel tribe. Qalandar was belonging to the Akhar Khel tribe. They said that this man is in great intoxication and he is also a wrestler. The one said to the other that I should hide behind the elevator and you should come front of him and say that come on for a fight. The Qalandar hide behind the elevator and the other young call him that he should come to the ground and fight with him, when Sadiqa move towards that man the Qalandar hit his leg with sword and cut his leg. They fell down Sadiqa and the other sixty peoples they locked inside the Mosque. The Kalamis locked the door of Mosques from outside and the left ones runaway.

In little while the peoples of Thal and Lamuti also arrived for help. The peoples of Thal were not helping us too much but the peoples of Lamuti were in our favors. One old lady of Kalam sate in the way. She said to the peoples of Thal and Lamuti that her husband and son killed by Torwalis now she need some chaff and please take little bid with you. The Kalamis sat that old woman there with Holy Quran on her head. They said that we should ask from this man, one man was there. They ask him that "is there any fight is going on between Torwalis and Kalamis"? He said that this woman is lieing there is no fight, one of the clever man saw the new bud of wheat in his cap. He was blowing wheat and his name was Bor Jamal and he was belonging to Kalam Khel tribe. They brought the chaff down to Kalam and they made the smoke of that and were throwing this inside the Mosque, the Torwalis become unconscious from the smoke. The Kalamis said that you all the peoples should handover your arms to us. They also said that we will let you go, and then they give some sixty guns to Kalamis.

In that time only the old types of guns were available. One kind was called Kari. The weight of that bullet was about 100 grams. May be more than I also saw that bullet. The arrows etcetera these was there guns. They tide the guns with rope and from that hole they give it to Kalamis. When they handed over all the guns the Kalamis came inside the Mosque and killed them. There was a Torwali woman she was married to a Kalami man. She came down to search for her relatives. She found out one of her nephew and saw that she was alive. He was crying in the pool of blood. She wrapped her nephew in some clothes and sent him. The Torwalis requested the Gujars that they should bring there dead bodies to their boundary. When the Gujar were bringing the dead bodies down someone got information that one man is going alive in this caravan. The Torwali woman sent her nephew secretly. The Kalami peoples run towards them when they reached to the Gudar Gal the Gujars saw them. They left the dead bodies in the river side and ran away with fear.

They came and caught the Gujars near to Pushmal. They caught them near to the Mosque of Jari. They asked them that where did they brought the dead bodies? They refused that they had not dead bodies but the Kalamis beat them. The Gujar said that if we will show you the dead bodies then the Torwalis who are stronger than us they will kill us. They said that you peoples should chase us and in which place we stopped then you should search there. In which place you will beat us and we will not go. The Kalamis chase them and in some place they stopped going. The Kalamis were beating them and they were not going down and nor up. When they reached they saw that this man opened himself from rope. When he opened the last knot he saw the peoples and dived in the river, he was a good swimmer. When he reached across the river someone hit him with a stone and the stone hit his head. Then he also died. They killed total sixty peoples.

The Torwalis buried the dead bodies in the graveyard of Cham Ghari. They Torwalis took away there dead bodies and the Sadiqa was still lying in the ally. The Torwalis were unaware of there wrestler that he is dead or alive. The children were throwing the walnuts towards him that he was in big desire of them. The children throw the walnut towards him. He was felling his mouth and then he was throwing that skins towards the children and the skin was injuring there body. Then the children were crying and there elders were coming and taking out that skins and then the blood was coming out. Then they were saying that don't go near to him. The Sadiqa was saying that the Kalamis should kill him. But the peoples were not killing him. On seventh day the Torwalis got information about Sadiqa then they took him down to Torwal land and after some time he died.

Second war between Gawris and Torwalis

After that war the Torwalis once again attacked on Kalam. They fought in the place of Goret. One was killed in this fighting. His name was Shash and he was the uncle of Ajab Khan Malik. In this fighting two or three Torwalis killed too and they again defeated. From there the peoples came to Gahil and starts watching for attacked from down peoples. The peoples were watching the Gahil peak. They came from Mishkoo to Gahil. In Satal Ghari the Nilior Khel watched the trench. On the other side Dara Khel were watching. When they came from Mishkoo Gat to Gahil in that place they had again fought. After that war the Jam Malik of Balakot sent a message. That was the news of last time Jam Malik sent message to Ram Toola that he should come to Balakot. That story is belonged to my father's time. When Ram Toola Malik planed to go to Balakot the peoples told him that he should not go because the Torwalis will kill him.  Raam Tulaa went from here and a big Jirga was managed there. In this Jirga Jam Malik took out his snuff packet and put the snuff in mouth and then throw it to Ram Toola. Ram Toola asked him for snuff. When Jam Malik given his snuff pocket to him the peoples said for prayers. When they prayed then no dialogue more talked. The peoples were asking from each other that what the result came out. They said that they not know any thing but the peace is announce. Ram Toola Malik married his daughter to Jam Malik's son and his daughter married to own son. Jam Malik's daughter had a son his name was Sher Dil, now Sher Dil's son are Shah Nazar etcetera.

After that time they had peace and the Kalam saved from the attack of Torwalis. Once when the peoples were watching the Gahil peak that time Nilior Khel slaughtered a bull for the peoples. When the peoples start the meal from one side the peoples were demanding too much for soup. When the peoples giving them soup then they were demanding for more bread. Some one asked that on this side the soup and breads are going too much what is this problem? Some one said that Pisha Khan is eating on that side. When we are giving breads to him then he is demanding soup and when we are providing him soup then he is demanding for bread. He was my uncle and that was famous about him from that time. This was that occasion when the peoples were watching the Gahil peak. That time the peoples had very less bread to eat and each of them were bringing bread with him. The animal may they were buying or some peoples were giving them as a gift.

The cruelties of Khans in the area

The Torwalis had the support of the Khans of Swat. The Khan of Jare was occupied Gabral. Torwalis and other Khans occupied Laikot, Pishmal and Asret. After occupying that places the Khans went to Gabral. When they were going back to there houses they saw seven buffaloes with their calf near to Asret. One Khan ordered his servants that he should bring that buffaloes to him. I want to bring them. Some said that this will be your insult first you should go to your house and then from there you send the peoples for them. The Gujar talked to Torwalis that they should tell us that what we should do against the Khans? The Torwalis said that they should also talked to Kalamis if they wants to help you then we will also help you. The Khan went to his house and from there he sent his servants to bring that buffaloes. The peoples beat the servants and then they snatched their horses and sent them back to Khan. After that day the peoples got red of the slavery of the Khans too. The Khans accepted the government of Wali Swat because of their defeat from the peoples of Swat Kohistan. The Khan of Jare and some other peoples accepted the government and again start cruelty with the peoples.

A fight with the Wali Swatís forces

Because of this cruelty they again succeed to bring government here. The government official spent one season here; they gave jobs to the peoples of Kalam. In this season the government also collected the Ushar. They collected the Ushar and then they live this also here and went. When they went down after some time they attacked again and a war starts. The reason of attack was this that one man from Mulla Khel Zed Akhun Zada accepted the government. In Utror Malik Ahmad Shah accepted the government. The government officials came to Jahil Banr and from there they raided on Kalam Kas, The war were fought from three days. The ladies went back to Shan Pat and the Kas occupied in fire. My father Jamroz Malik also got injured with a bullet. Mulla Kabul also killed. One of my other uncles Imam Gul also killed with them in this war. The peoples brought the Imam Gul and Mulla Kabul but my father called the peoples that they should not go. My father told them that if they bring the dead bodies then the other peoples will also go thatís why they should them down. He said that he is not going then why they are going he ordered to keep the dead bodies down. They keep these dead bodies there. After that time the fight went on for some one hour and then they brought them to there houses. Darang lift Mulla Kabul. After he dropped the Mulla Kabul then he came back and lifts up the Imam Gul. His son Kator Kham took my father. They brought these peoples to Laam Daar bridge of Kalam.

From other side some peoples break the bridge and just one wood was left. The peoples were abusing each other then my father said that on this side my dead bodies are lying and you peoples break the bridge. They brake the Laam Daar Bridge and just one pole was left. They also brake the upper side bridge and just one pole was left. The also brake the bridge of Khukunel and Paleer and one pole was left. They brake all the bridges and then they came to Kas and the Kas came under the fire. Zed Akhun Zada also hit by a bullet. The Kalamis chase the army and them runaway from there and crossed the Gahil Bridge.

The government took over the area by a fraud

The government also went and they also cannot defeat Kalamis. After that the government went and they made the trick that they choose some peoples on monthly salary. The peoples were calling them Muajab Khor and they were getting salary. The government was paying to some one two hundred and to some one hundred and to some one sixty rupees.

Malik Hazrat Wali again brought the government. The government gives a telephone too. Near to Kalam Hotel they collected the stones. Here they made fortress. After three days they went from here. Then they came to the Tehsil place and the government stable here. After that Wali of Swat ruled on Kalam about twenty five years. To some peoples he was giving salary. When the government of Wali Swat went then the Afzal Khan said that the Khans of Swat have no salary then how the Kalamis are taking the salary. The salary of Kalamis finished because of Afzal khan.

The Naret people of Kohistan

In every place the Naret peoples are very near to each other. The Torwalis was very cruel to us. The responsible of that cruelty was our Dara Khels, because the Dara Khel of Kalam was met with the Dara Khel of Behrin. The Dara Khel of Behrin was claiming that the Kas Kalam is belong to them that are why many times they fought with each other. The Naret of Kalam and Behrin are the brother of each other they are doing each other's respect. The Naret of Behrin not attacked on Kalam but the Dara Khel attacked on Kalam. In Kalam the Naret called to Nilior Khel and Jaafalor Khel. Nilior and Jaafalors are Naret, In Ushu Kuchukor and Azmat Khanor is Naret. Kuchukor are similar to Jaafalor that is why they are there brothers. Azmat Khanor is near to Nilior that is why they are there brothers. In Utror Langar Khel and Sangar Khel tribes called Naret. The Langar Khel is near to Jaafalor and Sangar Khel is near to Nilior. I think that all the Naret peoples are the ancestors of Gira.

140 Elders of Kalam were gone in exile to Chitral

Wali of swat white bearded king made two groups in Kalam. One group was accepting his government and the other group was not accepting his government. They said that from his government they will become cruel to us they will make roads from us and also they will take from us. Because of this duress some peoples went out of Kalam with Malik Mulla. This is also an old story I remembered little bid. In the winter about one hundred and forty peoples went to Chitral and in the way near to Do Angar in one cave they spent night. In that night a heavy snow felled and the peoples stuck inside the cave they cannot came out. Some small pieces of cold bread were left with them. Malik Mulla divides that bread from his hand and very small pieces reached to them. Some peoples had flour and they also divided that. Only a handful amount reached to every one and they ate it. After that on seventh day they came out from that cave. Some of the peoples were very brave and strong for example Habib of Ushu and Hazrat Wali of Kalam etcetera. They were very strong and also very tall ones. They went in front and they clear path for the followers, they reached to Mahodand.

From Ushu peoples brought breads, cheese and meat etcetera in big baskets and they also reached to Mahodand. They took the ration and were going but some peoples said that they should go back but Malik Mulla said that return to Kalam is a shame full decision for him. They sit in one cave and were eating this food after some days God clear the weather. When the weather become clear and snow became hard they start journey and cross the mount. When they crossed the mount and entered to the jurisdiction of Chitral Malik Ghulam Haidar's body paralyzed. He did not tell to any body about that but he hides himself in his cloak and lay down on snow. After some journey some one asked to see that if some one is missing, they saw that Malik Ghulam Haidar is missing. When they came back they saw that he is under the snow, some snow fall covered his body. They found him there and they lift him and reached to a populated area. From there they start journey towards the Chitral city.

When they entered the Chitral the peoples of that place were doing this that they were informing the peoples of the other village to which the Kalamis could reached for the night those they should receive the guest. They were saying that you should go to the other village there is invitation for you. When they were spending night there then next morning they were informed that they should go to the other place they had invitation there. In this way they reached to the capital of Chitral and there they met with Mehtar of Chitral. They went and met with Mehtar. The asked them that what is the reason that they bear this much difficulties and reached here? Because of snow and too much cold there body were paralyzed and the skin of there face were came out. They said that Wali of Swat is doing cruelty that is why they came to you. He said that he will go with them and he cannot do cruelty on them. He asked that what they wanted. They request that the government should go from there area and then they will become happy.

They went from other side down to Malakand. He took the picture of our one hundred and forty elders and reach to Malakand. That was the time of British and he called the British. When the British came they again took there pictures. They fitted two cameras on back side and two on front side. There pictures and documents are still available in Malakand. There picture may be also available with the children of Mehtar of Chitral. If some one tries then he can take permission from the son of Mehtar of Chitral then from concern office they can find that pictures. If some one try.

When our area became agency then our peoples came back. When they came back that time the government peoples were hating Malik Mulla. Malik Mulla and Malik Mulla Yameen were the friends. These two persons chidingly in the night came to Kalam. In the way they spent night in the Mosque of Ramet. In Ramet one of the men was Samandar living there. When Samandar interred the Mosque he saw that Malik Mulla and Malik Mulla Yameen is sate around some coals in the Mosque. He told them that some of the constables of government were came here before you. They told us that two peoples are coming here and we should keep eye on them that is why for God sack you should go out from here. They came out of the Mosque and hide there self behind the wall of a field. They said that when they hided there in mean while some five constables came there. We were hearing there conversation they came and asked him those two peoples came inside the Mosque where they went now? Samandar told them that he did not know about them and he also not saw any body. They asked him that the peoples said that they inside the Mosque and how he not saw them. The holy Quran were there he took oath that he not saw any body. When he took oath we also heard this. He told them that they are Kalamis and why should I should take the oath for them. In this way the constables went from there and we went on other way like this God save us. God save us and reason become Samandar from his oath we rescued.

Same night they reached to Kalam. After some time Malik Mulla went again. He spent some time in Chitral then he went to Dir and spent some time there and when he came to Kalam soon he died. After his death government came here in his life government cannot came here. First the peoples came out of there town of that reason and second time they went out of the town when Wali of Swat occupied Kalam. Some peoples took salary from him that greed defeats the peoples.

Elders went in exile to Dir

This time Malik Muqarab Khan and his brother Arsala Khan went. In Jaafalor Khel Jaanas Khan and some Dara Khel also went with them. Many peoples from these three tribes went out. These peoples once again become rebels. After they went and spent about twelve years there. After twelve or thirteen years Wali of Swat called them that you peoples are free. If some one committed to murder he should come and I will make peace. If some one took some other's wife he should also come and I will make peace. The reason was this that these peoples fought there with each other and many peoples were killed. Some seven or eight peoples were killed. Mukai Malik and his brother killed too. When those peoples died Wali of Swat thought that he should call these peoples back in idle they are living there. The Nawab of Dir also could not provide any peace to them after that that peoples came to Saidu Sharif and met with Wali Swat there. There they salute Wali of Swat. From there they also came to Kalam and the government was here for some twenty five years.

Swat state merged in Pakistan and Wali Swat called the Gawri elders

One day the servant of Wali of Swat spread in whole area. When they were going to each and every house the peoples asked them about that? They told them that the salary holder of more then sixty rupees a month should come because Wali of Swat called them. I went also from here with these peoples. I went from here with my uncle. I saw that my uncle is going alone that time there were not roads. We spent night in the in one of the Torwalis house. When next morning we reached to Behrin we saw that there is a big Jirga and the peoples are waiting for each other. They said that Wali of Swat called them what is this problem? At last Chairman Malik said that we did not know that what he is going to tell us but when he asked some question we should go behind and make an answer and will tell him. They become agree on this decision and then they went from there. When we reached near to a poplar tree they took our shawls and in one Qameez and Shalwar they sent us inside. There he told that this is the Political agent of Pakistan and you should talk to him. Wali of Swat told to the peoples that my government is handover to them and you peoples are also handover to them now you should accept their government. The elders tell him that you are our king and we are only accepting your government. He said that I am with you but all the work is now handed over to Pakistan. I handover too to them and if you did not like police station it will also finished from you. Your area is now an agency you cannot pay any tax or any other donation etcetera. Now you will not pay any Zakaat or any Ushar to government. You are out of any tax like how your forefathers were free now you peoples are also free like them. Malik Ashraf and Malik Miramtullah told him that our peoples are ignorant if your living them free then they will create problems for government. Our peoples are cruel and ignorant that is why you should not finished police station and Tehsil from us.

Police station and Tehsil were left and then they ordered us to go out. In the time of outing the Bilour Malik of Utror tells to the peoples that we should also decided about our forest too. Wali of Swat told us that every thing is forgiven us. Then they should also hand over our forest to us. They should finished also the tax from forest too. One of them was Malik Mulla Yameen and he told them that they should not go out this is a good decision that we should first decide about our forest. The Ajab Khan Malik of Ushu also told them that if he finished all the taxes then he should also hand over our forest to us. Some one said that this is not a big problem he finished all the taxes now we should go ahead. After Salaam they brought us back to this poplar tree. When British took the pictures of our elders in Malakand, When Mehtar brought our peoples to British and they were ordered our area as an agency that books were brought. They were this much big books that two peoples hold them and brought them there. One man took the shawl from front and the other took from behind and the books were inside the shawl. They brought this books and sate in line. When they open those books the name of our elders came out. When they called my fathers name and said that if some of his relative is available he should come and make thumb print. I saw towards my father and then to my uncle but they shook their head that I should not go. They told that Kalamis should not take thumb prints, why they are thumb printing? Why they are taking our thumb prints our demands are still not fulfilled.

Malik Bilour once again stands up and cried that the peoples should not print their thumbs. Like this Malik Ajab Khan also stand and his body was shaking and the tears were flowing from eyes on his beard. Mulla Khels and Utroris made fraud and give their thumb prints and we give after them. After this procedure they give us two thousand rupees. They told us that government gives us this money that if the peoples did not finished their demand then you should give them this money and finished their demand. They also said that we should give this much money to those Maliks that they should bring in bags. Government sent this much money. The demand of the forest left behind and when the peoples give their thumb print they give two thousand rupees to them.

We brought this money to Behrin and in the hotel we were not know that how we should change this money. They give one thousand rupees to Malik Hazrat Faqeer because he was a rich man. One thousand give to Musharaf Malik because he was also rich and told them that they should change this money. Musharaf and Hazrat Faqeer both changed the money and brought to the peoples. Utroris, Ushoj and Kalamis together divided this money into that Maliks. Every one got some twenty six rupees each. We got that twenty six rupees and became happy that we got money. That is why we accepted the Pakistan government. Wali of Swat himself also accept the Pakistan government and he handover us to Pakistan too. First to God and then he handed over us to Pakistan. If on this day our elders were not doing fraud with each other then we were coming out of the rule of police and Tehsil and our forest too were saving.

The crops cultivated in Kalam in the past

Out of these eight crops one was sowing from the Kafirs time. In Tarnel and ShidilKet the product of this crop was too much. Means the Tran Kaafir was living there. That Kaafir sow that crop and after that these was coming out naturally. This crop was called Hilor. Now the peoples did not know about that but the peoples of more than seventy years old can recognize it. The second type of crop called Manay. The third type of crop was barley. These crops were ripened early. The fourth crop was wheat and in one side of Kalam the peoples were sowing it and one person was watching it. If someone's cow or buffalo goes inside then he was taking ten rupee fine from him. If the cattle less then three years old comes or goats or sheep inters he was cutting there head and were taking for himself. Then he was coming and saying that in following place I slaughtered someone's animal he should go and brought it.

In those times there was unity and discipline in the peoples. One year they were sowing wheat on Buyun side and other year they were sowing on Zimet side. Third year they were sowing on Khalil side. Like this the wheat crop was also available. Hilor one, Manay two, barley three and wheat for aren't? After that one crop was called Lo and that was also coming soon. The product of this crop was also too much that is become five aren't? The sixth crop was called Bharo. The seventh crop was maize. The white maize was not ripping here that is why the peoples were sowing the red maize. There were two types of seeds of maize were available one called Mori and second called Wazir. These seven crops I sow from my hand, I ate them and I saw them, the eighth crop was called Lhaa.

The reason of that ban was the attacked of Torwalis. In that attacked many of the Torwalis were killed. The army of Wali of Swat also attacked on Kalam and many of his soldiers were died too. The peoples of Kalam did not accept the government. After the killing of Torwalis and army men the Kalam cannot go down because the Torwalis accepted government too. They stopped the transportation of clothes, salt and crops on Kalamis. The peoples were bringing the clothes and salt on there back from Dir Kohistan.

The old names of the villages and their meanings

In Laangor one of the Buzor Khel Mr. Marshah was living. In that place there was a slope and the water was flowing from there. On the water channel there was two poles for crossing that is why this place called Laangor. The Marshah jumped on that place. The Marshah jumped from one side of the channel to the other side. That is why this place is famous for the jump of Marshah and for Laangor. The name of Ketaan Laam was given to this village from Qadir Khan Malik and Bani Khan Malik. Once there was some peoples fought in Kalam. In this war the peoples divided in groups and the hate for each other increased. That is why some peoples built a village in the forest right on that present place. The give the name of (Ketaan Laam) forest village to this place.

The name of Kargalo is not Kargalo, this place was very warm. If someone looks the doves and crows are going in evening time towards that mount. Means going towards the Ashurun and Kargalo. The name of that village is not Kargalo but his name was (Kaak Gheloy) means the village of doves and crows.

The original name of Gorken is Gorchan not Gorken now a days on that place a mosque built. One mosque was on upside and now the new mosque built downside. One rock was called Gorchan means the rock of horse now this was broken with blasting. On that rock exactly two ears of the horse were there. That why that village was called Gorchan not Gorken. Later peoples wronged spell the name Gorken but the original name was Gorchan.

You asked about Yajgal the original name of that place was Aachgal. This place was also very warm that is why it is called the eye of the sun. You asked about the Chir because the milk is a very good thing but why it is called the milk? This place is not Chir means milk but there was every type of plants were available. In that place every type of plants was available. It was called (BireN Chir) means the udder of male goat.

You asked about Asan because this place was very easy for every thing. This place was easy for water of crop, for woods, for raw material of deodar leaves and was near to forest. The name of that place is Asan in English it is called "easy".

The name of Ashurun is not Ashurun but it was called Yachomur. In that place the grass Yachomur was available. In that place that grass was available that is why it was called Yachomur not Ashurun. The original name of Khukunel is Kushkunel not Khukunel. That was a uninhabited place. This place was not inhabit ate. This place was uninhabited that is why it was called Kushkunel.

You asked about Jayil Banr it is not Jayil Banr but it was called Jahil Banr. The ignorant peoples were living there. In the time of Kafir's one of a ignorant and a cruel man was living there, nobody could give him defeat. This man was living in a trench in the backside of Jahil Banr on the mountain. His trench was situated on a high place that is why no body can catch him. Then he went little bid up and started to live in Chikal Kod. At last the peoples caught him and in this fight many of the peoples died and the peoples which left were runaway, after that time the name of this place become Jahil Banr (the forest of ignorant). This is not Jayil Banr but it is called Jahil Banr. The forest was very thick in this place.

The horrible avalanches and too much snowfall in the past

According to the scientists that the maximum forest can cause lot of snow fall. Once upon a time in this area some seven meters of snow was felled. That year one of the avalanche was fall on Jahil Banr. The Jahil Banr was covered under the heavy avalanche. The avalanche came out from the Jahil Banr side. In Kator Banr there was also a avalanche came. Many of the peoples of Jahil Banr were buried under that two avalanches. Some peoples were died and the injured peoples taken out on fourth or fifth day. Some peoples taken out alive and some dead bodies were taken out too. Buyun was also came under the avalanche and one of the avalanche was came down from the Buyun mount too. This avalanche came from that place and stopped near to the bridge of Khukunel. The two sons of Garif Malik were too died because of the falling of there roof and they were taken out on same day and the other peoples too were taken out. One of the man Najmullah was also taken out from the avalanche with two of his wives on second day near to the mount of Buyun.

In Makar Khaar the avalanche killed the father of a man called Lali. His mother was also died; the peoples went from here and took out them. This year about fourteen hand snow felled. I measured my self that was near to fourteen hand of snow. The measurement with yards becomes seven yards.

Some years before that snow one time one avalanche was fall on Laikot I was a small chap I cannot go but my father was went. The avalanche of Laikot fall on mosque and inside the mosque one of the holy man Akhun Zada was also present. The Akhun Zada came from down area and was stayed there for the night. He sat with a pillar of mosque and said to the peoples that if they can accept his application he will tell them, the peoples asked what? He said that one the avalanche of snow will fall on the mosque or may some other difficulty will come that is why you should go out of here; some one said that he should come out too. He said that he will not go out of here and he want to sit here. They told him that if he not wants to go out of here then they will not leave him alone and not go out of here. Akhun Zada sits there with the pillar and was reciting and the other peoples were sleep. In a short time the avalanche crushed the houses and martyred the mosque too. The mosque of Tota Khel also Martyred and now Dora Khel built a new mosque on this side. Tota Khel is building mosque now. That mosque too martyred and they built new mosque. Now they break that mosque too and are building new mosque. In that mosque Akhun Zada buried under the avalanche. One of our young man of Shahoo was also died. His name was Miral Shah. Two peoples of Ushu were also there. All the Kalamis went for Miral Shah from here. When the peoples reached some one said that the voice of Miral Shah is coming work quickly.

The peoples were calling him on his name and he was replying that he is present. Kalamis worked hardly and on seventh day they succeed to go inside the mosque. Means they went inside the mosque. When they came in from the beam they saw that they are the peoples of Ushu. The peoples from Ushu were came too and were removing the snow. These two peoples were became rebel in elope of some woman. They eloped someone's wife. When the peoples take him out of the mosque that time the husband that woman was also there which he eloped. The husband of the eloped woman announced that he release them just for the sake of God. The peoples turn to Qibla side and pray for this man. He said that God did not killed him and on seventh day the peoples took him out now I also want to forgive him.

That time the snow was falling too much. Now the peoples cut our forest and near to finished. Nothing left now. The peoples are not weeping for the lost of this forest. And on which year the snow is not felled then they become happy that snow not felled. They are also saying that the year passed very nice on us. The snow did not fall. They are not aware that they finished there forest with there own hand. The remaining forest if finished then we will also not get the drinking water.

The people were firing at the airplanes

My age is about sixty or seventy years and I not heard this type of story. My father was one hundred and sixty years and I asked from scholars about his age. His teeth again came out then the scholars told me that he is one hundred and sixty years old. I never heard about the bomb attacked on Kalam but when some plane was coming then the peoples were firing at plane. The elders were saying that they should not fire on plane and the plane was flying in sky. The plane was flying on one side and then was going to other side and the peoples were firing at him. The bullet of that time's gun could not reach there. One of the gun was called Kanrai and the bullet of that gun was about 62.5 grams. The bullet of that gun was loading from the pipe and it was called Ghin gun too. The bullet of that guns were cannot go far only the peoples were firing towards the sky.

The project of the building of the Kalamís historic Mosque

The Kalam Bazaarís mosque built in the of my grandfather. That mosque was built by our forefathers. That place was called the village of Khar in that place the mosque was built. When the mosque built there then it is not succeeded there. This place was situated near to the Gamon Bridge. From there that village shifted to (Dhangal Laam) means to destroyed village. The village was around the house of Shah Wali and the Mosque was situated on the back side of Hajbulot's house. When the Dhangal Laam destroyed from the earth quack one boy left live inside of his mother's armpit. His mother died and the peoples took him out from there house on seventh day. After the destroy of that village the peoples came to present village and were living here. When the peoples shifted there village to the present place then they were thinking where to make the mosque.

The place where the mosque was built is the property of Jafalor and in Jaafalor it is belong to Kaadaror Khel. In Kaadaror Khel one man was called Anayat Khan he was the praying leader of the mosque that place was belong to him. Jaafalor choose that place and in the front of the mosque the river was flowing. The peoples told him that how they are going to built mosque in river but they said that they want to built here. One wall of the mosque was built on the river in Ser. After that the peoples brought the beams. They pillars were kept. One day one man Ghulam Shah went to forest with an axe. In evening time he came back to house. He said that in the roof of Dober; the meaning of Dober is that that the roofs of twelve houses should be joint in a row it is called Dober. The peoples were gathering there and they were doing Jirgas there. He told to the peoples that he cut a Deodar tree and from that tree they can make two pillars and a Siray. The peoples told him that he went some time ago and in a while he came back then how he cut a tree. He cut the tree near to the bridge of Och.

The peoples went from here and they made two pillars and a Siray. Then they pulled them and drop to river. In the river these pieces stopped after some distance on the corner of river. When that pillars stop there then the peoples had no idea that how they could take out these. The truthful peoples of that time told to the Mullas that they should recite the holy Quran. When the Molvis were reciting in a while fast rain starts. That was the spring time. Therefore the water of river arose and next morning when the peoples get up they saw the Sarai and pillars near to the flour mill in Ser. From there the peoples brought them to the mosque. The pillars and the Serai of verandah brought by Ghulam Shah. One beam brought from backside of the village too.

That beam was brought from MoS Gaa. When the peoples were bringing the beam in the way the shoe of Haji Ghazan Khan's grand father stuck. The peoples crushed him and died right on the spot. These are belong to the old mosque and the beams and pillars of the new mosque were clipped after the burning of that old mosque. The present mosque was built in the time of my father. The beams brought by Niliors. The middle beam brought by Dara Khel the door side beam brought by Nilior and the beam of verandah brought by Jaafalor, and the backside beam brought together. The (Kalai) was also brought dividedly.

The Sarai was made by a man called Dilbar from Silmanor Khel tribe. One another man Gharib of Silmanor also made the Sarai. When they failed to make that Sarai then the peoples went and brought a Torwali man. That man kept a stone under the Sarai and were whirling it the automatically the Sarai came to the right place. In our time when we were building the mosque then my father told us that we should cut the pillar because it is rotten from the down may be the saw will brake. He told us that one of the round shaped stone is available under that pillar. When they kept the Sarai and put the beam on it then with force the stone pressed in. Like the stone went inside the rotten pumpkin. He said that if you cut that pillar then your saw will brake. He told us that we should cut the pillar up from the rotten place. This words were looked amazing for the peoples. When the peoples took this stone out the weight of that stone was some two Kilos. This was round shaped and was blue river stone. The Torwali men were keeping the pillar on that stone and was whirling it. When the beam got force then the stone pressed inside the soil.


Created by Muhammad Zaman Sagar
Copyright © 2003 Muhammad Zaman Sagar

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