KINABUKASAN SOCIETY
Towards Unity and Service
A Matter of Taste
By Matthew Sutherland
(same guy who wrote A Rhose, by Any Other Name)
"A man seldom thinks with more earnestness of anything than
he does of
his dinner." -- Samuel Johnson
I have now been in this country for over six years, and consider
myself in
most respects well-assimilated. However, there is one key
step on the road
to full assimilation which I have yet to take, and that's
to eat balut. The
day any of you sees me eating balut, please call
immigration and ask them
to issue me a Filipino passport. Because at that point there will
be no
turning back.
Balut, for those still blissfully ignorant non-Pinoys out there,
is a
fertilized duck egg. It is commonly sold with salt in a
piece of newspaper,
much like English fish and chips, by street vendors-usually after
dark,
presumably so you can't see how gross it is. It's
meant to be an
aphrodisiac, although I can't imagine anything more likely to
dispel sexual
desire than crunching on a partially-formed baby duck swimming in
noxious
fluid. The embryo in the egg comes in varying stages of
development, but
basically it is not considered macho to eat one without fully
discernible
feathers, beak, and claws. Some say these crunchy bits are
the best. Others
prefer just to drink the so-called 'soup', the vile, pungent
liquid that
surrounds the aforementioned feathery fetus... excuse me, I
have to go and
throw up now. I'll be back in a minute.
Food dominates the life of the Filipino. People here just love to
eat.
They eat at least eight times a day. These eight official
meals are called,
in order: breakfast, snacks, lunch, merienda, pica-pica, pulutan,
dinner,
and no-one-saw-me-take-that-cookie- from-the-fridge-so-it-doesn't-count.
The
short gaps in between these mealtimes are spent eating Sky
Flakes from the
open packet that sits on every desktop. You're never far
from food in the
Philippines. If you doubt this, next time you're driving home
from work, try
this game. See how long you can drive without seeing food-and I
don't
mean a distant restaurant, or a picture of food. I mean a man on
the
sidewalk frying fishballs, or a man walking through the traffic
selling nuts
or candy. I bet it's less than one minute.
Here are some other things I've noticed about food in the
Philippines.
Firstly, a meal is not a meal without rice-even breakfast.
In the UK, I
could go a whole year without eating rice. Second, it's
impossible to drink
without eating. A bottle of San Miguel just isn't the same
without gambas
or beef tapa. Third, no one ventures more than two paces
from their house
without baon and a container of something cold to drink.
You might as well
ask a Filipino to leave home without his pants on. And
lastly, where I come
from, you eat with a knife and fork. Here, you eat with a spoon
and fork.
You try eating rice swimming in sauce with a knife.
One really nice thing about Filipino food culture is that people
always
ask you to share their food. In my office, if you catch
anyone attacking
their baon, they will always go: "Sir! Kain tayo!"
("Let's eat!"). This
confused me, until I realized that they didn't actually expect me
to sit
down and start munching on their boneless bangus. In fact,
the polite
response is something like, "No thanks, I just ate."
But the principle is
sound-if you have food on your plate, you are expected to share
it,
however hungry you are, with those who may be even hungrier.
I think
that's great. In fact, this is frequently even taken one
step further. Many
Filipinos use "Have you eaten yet?" ("Kumain
ka na?") as a general
greeting, irrespective of time of day or location.
Some foreigners think Filipino food is fairly dull compared to
other Asian
cuisines. Actually lots of it is very good: spicy dishes
like Bicol Express
(strange, a dish named after a train); anything
cooked in coconut milk;
anything kinilaw; and anything adobo. And it's hard to beat
the sheer
wanton, cholesterholic frenzy of a good old-fashioned
lechon de leche
feast. Dig a pit, light a fire, add 50 pounds of animal fat on a
stick, and
cook until crisp. Mmm, mmm... you can actually feel your arteries
constricting with each successive mouthful. I also share
one key Pinoy
trait-a sweet tooth. I am thus the only foreigner I know who does
not
complain about sweet bread, sweet burgers, sweet spaghetti, sweet
banana
ketchup, and so on. I am a man who likes to put jam on his
pizza. Try it!
It's the weird food you want to avoid. In addition to duck fetus
in the
half-shell, items to avoid in the Philippines include pig's
blood soup
(dinuguan); bull's testicle soup (the strangely-named "soup
number five" - I
dread to think what numbers one through four are); and the
ubiquitous,
stinky shrimp paste, bagoong, and its equally stinky sister,
patis (fish
sauce). Filipinos are so addicted to these latter items
that they will even
risk arrest or deportation trying to smuggle them into
countries like
Australia and the USA, which wisely ban the importation of
items you can
smell from more than 100 paces. Then there's the small matter of
the blue
ice cream. I have never been able to get my brain around eating
blue food;
the ubiquitous ube leaves me cold. And lastly on the subject of
weird food,
beware: that kalderetang kambing (goat) could well be
kalderetang aso (dog)...
The Filipino, of course, has a well-developed sense of food humor.
Here's
a typical Pinoy food joke: "I'm on a seafood diet."
"What's a seafood
diet?" " When I see food, I eat it!"
Filipinos also eat strange bits of
animals-the feet, the head, the guts, etc., usually barbecued on
a stick.
These have been given witty names, like "Adidas"
(chickens' feet);
"kurbata" (either just chicken's neck, or "neck
and thigh" as in
"neck-tie"); "Walkman" (pigs ears);
"PAL" (chicken wings); "helmet"
(chicken heads); "IUD" (chicken intestines), and
"Betamax"
(video-cassette-like blocks of animal blood). Yum, yum.
Bon appetit.
Contributed by: Romeo Cruz
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