BUBF FAQ

Vulcan Models 1500-88 / 88SE / L ( Series A / B / C)

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MASTER Table of Contents

I.       Identification and Folklore
II.      General Maintenance
III.    External Engine Mods 
III b.   Internals Engine Modifications
IV.    Electrical System
V.      Accessories
VI.     Miscellaneous   

About These  TECH Pages and How to Use Them 

I.  General Identification and Folklore - click on topic

1. What’s a BUBF? (basic specs and link to more detailed specs) Explanation of the acronym BUBF.

2. What do A/B/C mean in relation to the 1500? (brief descriptions of BUBF models and series identifiers)

17. What FAR's exist and which ones are needed for my BUBF?  Field Authorized Repairs are few now.

24. Known problems I should look out for  

23. Where can I get more information and see other BUBF’s on-line? Best location is the VROC web site.  www.vroc.org

Intentionally Bank

II.  General Maintenance of Your BUBF - click on topic

4. Daily, weekly maintenance and mileage dependent maintenance you can do on your bike  Checking oil level, brake lights, tire pressure, etc.

5. Basic tools you'll need to maintain your bike AND what additional tools are nice-to-have. Hand tools, gauges, for general maintenance.

6. Service Manual (and/or Owner’s Manual) for the BUBF. (including Clymers service manual).

7. Changing your engine oil and checking the oil screen? (detailed oil change and oil screen cleaning information)  Oil filters, oil pressure, oil types to use, etc.

7a.  BUBF Spark Plug Information (describes spark plug sizes and their differences for changing riding conditions)

7c.  Battery Information and Vendor links Is your battery operating well, how to test battery, etc.

3. What kind of mileage can I expect from a BUBF? 

8. How do I maintain the spokes on the 1500B?

9. What grade of gasoline should I use?  Regular is the best.

10. Is there a problem if I overfill the gas tank?

11. What tires are best for the BUBF and where can I get them?  Tire makes and models, rider preferences, etc.

Intentionally Bank

 

III.   External Engine Modifications (i.e., carburetor, pipes, etc.) - click on topic

12. What modifications can I do to make my bike run better/faster/stronger?  Thing to do before (expensive) internal modifications.

 

18. How a Keihin CV carburetors works.     Carburetor theory & basic principals of operation.

 

13. Air intake mods available for 1500A/B/C. Simple to complex.

 

14. What carburetor mods and kits are available for the BUBF?  A few out there.

 

21. How can I improve handling (fork braces, fork springs, shocks, lowering, etc.)?

 

15. What are "coasters" and why would I want them?

 

16. What after-market pipes are available for the BUBF?  Manufactures and models.  Rider preferences.

 

Intentionally Bank

Intentionally Bank

III b.  Internal Engine Modifications

14b.  Piston and Cam Upgrade

14c.  Carburetor Upgrade

IV.  Electrical System - click on topic

25.31 Simple and Easy Electrical Tests.  Quick tests to eliminate possible problem areas as you work on your bike.

20.5 Upgrade Rear Turn Signals to Running and STOP Signals

22. What your stock BUBF electrical system can support such as accessories (i.e., light bar, louder horn, etc.)  Yes, but you have to be careful.

25. BUBF Electrical TIPS (tools, techniques, etc.)

REAR TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION   Relocate rear turn signals for saddlebag supports and bury the wires under the rear fender.  

25a.  Replacing your Alternator Stator and Regulator/Rectifier  Detailed instructions with pictures.

25b.  Installing a Drag Specialties TACH.  Detailed text description and pictures.

26c. Turn Signal BUZZER Reminder. If you forget to turn your turn signals off, this buzzer mod will help a lot.

20.4 TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION KITS  This helps if a new windshield needs more room.

 

V.  Accessories - click on topic

19. Which windshields fit a BUBF?  Manufacturers and models.  Ride preferences.

20. Saddlebags and a replacement seats for my BUBF.

20a. Floor boards, handlebars, risers, cables, lines, etc. 

Intentionally Bank

VI.  Miscellaneous - click on topic:

D.  TUNING for better mileage.  

E.  Synchronizing Carbs:    It's easier than you think.

M.  CYLINDER COMPRESSION TESTING  

  S.  Checking Carburetor FLOAT levels. how to make a float checking tool.

O.  REPLACING Leaking Valve Cover Gaskets 

F.  Center stand for the A's.??  

  H.  A quick run-down on typical Exhaust Gas colors.  

P.  BY-PASS FUEL PUMP   In an emergency and long term.

R.  Where To Find and Buy Parts

 

B.  Speedometer principals and checking the accuracy of your speedometer.

A.   Cleaning up both the speedo and gas gauge lens    If you REALLY have to.  Otherwise, leave them alone.

Q.  Nomad Engine in a BUBF  Yes, it can be done.

G.  CHROMING BUBF Parts.  

N.  SIDE COVERS: Using epoxy glue and epoxy filler to reattach broken side cover posts, reinforce existing posts, and make replacement side cover posts.

K.   Winter Storage Tips.

L.  TYING DOWN A MOTORCYCLE ON A TRUCK OR TRAILER.

J.  PRE-Flight Travel Packing: Stuff to take on a LONG trip

C.  Shipping a bike.  Some companies that do it all for you.

 

1. What’s a BUBF?                      return to Master Table of Contents

1.1. The BUBF (Butt Ugly But Fast) and the BUBIF (Butt Ugly But It’s Fast) are 1500cc Vulcan 88, 88SE, and L Models (the A, B, and C series, respectively). These bikes are unique having a 1470 cc total displacement; over square bore and stroke: 102.0 x 90.0 mm; 9:1 compression ratio; V-twin cylinders, 4-speed transmission (sorry, no way to put a 5-speed in a BUBF :(), shaft drive, and liquid cooled engine. Each cylinder is served by a Keihin CVK36 carburetor which helped to foster the STOCK versions' reputation as the fastest scoot in the carbureted Vulcan family. 

See http://vulcan.wolfcrews.com/misc/specs.htm  for a quick and complete specifications listing for the BUBF. 

The Vulcan 88/88SE/L’s have simple, straight lines, unlike the more elaborate retro style design of the Vulcan Classic which has only ONE carburetor serving both cylinders. 

TECH TIP: Access Kawasaki PDF specifications, 1500A10, 1500C04. You will need Acrobat Reader to view these files.  Kawasaki has not made PDF specifications available on-line for the 1500A1 through 1500A9, nor 1500B.  Go to buykawasaki.com and follow the owner and vehicle information links for other model years.

  return to Master Table of Contents

 

2. What do A/B/C mean in relation to the 1500?                     return to Master Table of Contents

2.1. The A/B series of 1500 Vulcans were first manufactured in 1987 (VN1500A1/B1).  The A series continued manufacture through the A13 in 1999, the last year the A was manufactured. The B6 appears in the service manual through 1992, but appears to only have been sold in the U.S.A. through 1990(B4). 

The C series (C3 and C4, 1996 and 1997 respectively) were sold in the US for a relatively short time. 

The A/B/C are essentially the same bike having Kawasaki twin carburetors, and a V-Twin engine. The B series is much like the A except for its wire spoke wheels, ROUND air intake covers, smaller (3.2 gallon) gas tank, and larger main jets. A’s have oval shaped air intake covers and 4.2 gallon tank. The B’s rear fender sweeps up and out while the A’s curves down following the rear tire lines. 

The C is similar to an A with the addition of wire wheels, different stock handle bars (one piece drag style), and gold "wings" on the Vulcan gas tank emblem. Any mention of the 1500L model name (again, similar to the 88 and 88SE) should be taken to mean the C series Vulcan.  It is sometimes called the "L".

TECH TIP: KAW has three ways of "identifying," our 1500A scoots. Using the BUBF "A" is the slang method: Marketing uses "Vulcan 1500-88"; Service and parts use "VN1500-A9" where the "A" is the "series" and the "9" is the 9th year (1995) in the series.  The 1500-88E and 1500L are similarly identified.

The VIN number is used for title and license plate registration, and warranty tracking by KAW.  A 1995 BUBF "A series" VIN number looks like "JKBVNAA10SA02XXXX" (17 characters in all), where "XXXX" is a number unique to that bike. The VIN number is part of the information contained on a label attached to the side of the steering head.  The tag is easily read by turning your handlebars to the far left and reading the VIN number off the label. Be aware that the engine has its own separate serial number. 

TECH TIP: The wire wheels from a 1500C can be swapped with those on a 1500A. To swap tires, you will need the rubber bands that go over the spokes ends inside the rim, and inner tubes, but the tires generally will swap with no complications. I have wheels from a 1500L on my 1500A (as well as the handlebars) and like both way more than the stock 1500A buckhorns and cast wheels. Troll around and see if some 1500L owner is sick of his look.... wiredgeorge ~V~2420 96 1500A Leander, TX

TECH TIP: The business I called about pricing spokes / re-lacing was: Wheel Works 12787 Nutwood Garden Grove CA 92640 1-714-530-6681 About $85 (1998 price) for a set of spokes , doubled to have them re-lace. Cash Register ~VROC~ 1033 

TECH TIP:   The C2 that I got [in Japan] (the same as Toa's and a few others [in New Zealand and Australia] is a bit different than the states model. I believe the differences are (correct me if I am wrong as I don't know the states model that well)

 1. Buckhorn bars instead of drag bars [US model has drag bars]

 2. The rear turn signals are mounted to the passenger backrest instead of off the fender

 3. The rear brake light is above the license plate instead of visa versa

 4. Two horns are mounted below the headlight, instead of one at the side

 5. The wiring to the lights is different (headlight switch goes from off to dim to fully on)

 6. It was already coastered when I got it and I think it was stock that way

 7. The owners are much more handsome <g> [wide open for debate]

 The similarities include the wire spoke wheels and a golden winged tank badge.

 

 Hope this doesn't confuse things more. Ken Ritchie at kritchie@bio.nagoya-u.ac.jp wrote on 12/20/02 12:35 AM:

return to Master Table of Contents

 

3. What kind of mileage can I expect from a BUBF?                     return to Master Table of Contents

3.1. This MOST DEFINITELY depends on your riding style, where you ride, and the road conditions. Flat roads and steady low speeds (i.e., between 40 and 50 MPH) should give you higher MPG (miles per gallon). Highway riding into the wind with a lot of steep hills ( or jack rabbit fast starts and stops) will get you lower MPG. As a result, you can expect a low of 30-33 MPG to a high of 44-49 MPG with a STOCK Vulcan 88(SE)/L. Once you get into the various mods and engine accessories, these numbers can go down (or sometimes UP).  The 1500A11 with the taller Classic D1/D2 transmission gear set should provide a 5% to 9% increase in highway MPG.

Comparison of Transmission Sets: A9, A11, D2

A9

Output to Wheel

Power from Eng

A11

Output to Wheel

Power from Eng

D2

Output to Wheel

Power from Eng

1st

2.500

40

16

2.500

40

16

2.294

39

17

2nd

1.591

35

22

1.375

33

24

1.375

33

24

3rd

1.192

31

26

1.036

29

28

1.036

29

28

4th

0.966

28

29

0.781

25

32

0.781

25

32

Overall Drive Ratio

3.838*

 

 

3.105

 

 

3.105

 

 

*  The A9 requires the engine to turn 3.838 times to rotate the back wheel once, whereas the A11 engine need only turn 3.105 times to turn the rear wheel once, thereby gaining a higher efficiency at highway speeds versus the A9. 

3.2.1. As speeds increased, gas mileage went down. The 4th gear sweet spot was about 50 MPH and produced mileage in the 38-49 MPG range.

3.2.2. As speeds increased, to 65 MPH, gas mileage dropped to the 35-37 MPG range.

3.2.3. Once speeds crossed over to the 70-80 MPH range, gas mileage went down below 34 MPG.

3.3. These numbers are typical of the 1995-1996 BUBF’s. The Pre-1995 and post 1996 BUBF’s had better mileage by 5-10%.

3.3.1. The 1997-1999 BUBF’s have the taller 1996-1997 Classic (D1/D2)  4th gear to partly explain the improved mileage.

3.3.2. I have no idea why the pre-1995 BUBF’s get better mileage other than their using an older igniter version than the later BUBF’s.

3.5. The mileage’s above assume the engine is in tune (i.e., carbs clean and balanced, spark plugs clean and not worn or pitted, air filters clean, etc.) and your tires have the proper pressure. Any one of these and many other factors can dramatically effect gas mileage.

3.6. The A11 (1997) and up BUBF’s have the "taller" or higher ratio 2nd, 3rd, and 4th transmission gears used in the Vulcan 1996-1997 Classic. On paper, the ratios are APPROXIMATELY 20% HIGHER THAN THE PRE-A11 gears. These numbers SUGGEST better gas mileage can be had using these gears. The Classic gears can be installed in older BUBF’s. The engine must be removed from the frame and the crankcase split in order to install the gears. This is a non-trivial job and cracking the engine should only be undertaken by a trained and experienced mechanic. Each new gear from Kawasaki costs about $100.00 and labor is about 16 to 18 hours. Total could be close to $1,500.00 to upgrade an older BUBF with the Classic gears to get another 3 to 6 miles per gallon.  In some cases where the rider style is low rpm shifting, the original A01-A10 1st gear and the A11 2nd gear may grind due to their gear ratio difference. There is a taller Classic D2 1st gear available to replace the original 1st gear to reduce grinding.

TECH TIP: The first clutch was (blown out) because it was my first v-twin with substantial torque and I couldn’t resist twisting the throttle at every opportunity. Rear tires only lasted 3000 miles no matter what the brand. The clutch started slipping after just 150 miles after I switched to Mobil 1. Now running KAW oil in the 93 after the second clutch was installed and run Golden Spectro blend in the 97 which is what the dealer put in when he prepped it as I bought the 97 new. The gear ratios in the BUBF’s since 97 are the same as the Classic. Previous to 97 the BUBF’s were a little buzzy and turned over too many RPMs above 70 mph. Still, riding in the mountains of Tennessee, the 93 in 4th will pull any hills without shifting. The 97 uses 3rd most of the time in the mountains to keep from lugging in 4th. Hope this helps and is my opinion having two different years of the same model. Trackman

3.7. As of this update, Dynatek has a Dyna2000 igniter specifically for the BUBF and sells a separate version for the 1500 Classic and Nomad. Reports indicate increased gas mileage for some users as well as increased performance and easier starting. Check the VROC Newsgroup and archives for the current and latest performance information on the BUBF version of the Dyna2000 igniter.

3.8. Rider Experiences: I'm getting about 40 mpg that is when I'm not running her hard. The filters mount directly on the mouth of the carbs, under the seat. The ears are on a shelf in the garage. You can get the filters from Carb Parts Warehouse and a filter for the crankcase also. I used George Koppman's write up in the archives for the part #'s . He has a really good write up on how to do the ear removal. Hope this helps. Later Bama vroc#753 Stonewall, La.   return to Master Table of Contents

 

4. What maintenance and mileage maintenance can I do?                       return to Master Table of Contents

4.1. In addition to the pre-ride check-out of tire pressure, oil, gas, and coolant level, plus a quick check of the brakes and turning indicator lights, there are additional important checks you can make between periodic dealer maintenance and/or the work done by the self-maintainer.

4.2. As suggested by this author, on a weekly or more frequent basis, you should check your hydraulic fluid levels (Clutch , Front, and Rear Brake hydraulic levels); check tire treads for wear and stones, nails, etc. stuck in rubber or between treads. A quick look at your brake pad wear (without removing the calipers from the frame) is a good practice.

4.3. Every 3,000 miles (5,000 kilometers), you should check and adjust where applicable: your spark plugs, clutch hydraulic fluid level, your rear drive fluid level, and change your oil. You should check your battery water level regularly and more often in hot weather to avoid damage to the battery and your having to replace the battery prematurely. The service manual calls for a 12V 20 (amp hour) battery. Your motorcycle dealer or good battery dealer familiar with motorcycle batteries can provide a good replacement battery of the proper power and SIZE when the time comes to buy a replacement. 

When you buy a battery, make it a practice to have the dealer fully charge the battery. Or, fully charge the battery yourself BEFORE YOU USE IT IN YOUR SCOOT. Using a partially charged new battery will set the maximum charge limit at the level it’s first used and the battery will never hold more charge than the first day you installed and used it.

4.4. Undue clutch slippage may be caused by a worn clutch spring. The procedure for checking and replacing the clutch spring (Kawasaki part number 92144-1295) is in the KAW Service Manual and the Clymer’s Manual. This is also an excellent link with pictures that can be accessed through a VROC Archives "search".

4.5. As referenced in the Kawasaki Owner’s Manual (which every owner/rider should have as a minimum for reference) and the Service Manual, there are several other checks to be made every 3,000 miles such as carburetor synchronization, air suction valves, idle, etc. Some of these checks require special tools which are available through your dealer and third party parts distributors. The author suggests you have your dealer or a qualified mechanic perform these maintenance checks if you don’t want to buy these tools to do the checks yourself.      return to Master Table of Contents

TECH TIP:  Steering Head Maintenance: If the Bearings Go BAD: Alas after trying to grease them up with some improvement initially the prognosis is surgery with replacement.  I rode the bike Sunday about 40 miles with no problems then the friction in the bearings must of created some major heat cuz at a couple of right turns it just flat bound up.  I had to jerk it back and forth to loosen it enough to take a left then we chatted with some friends till she cooled down enough to go further.  Needed a second stop in less miles so Kilo declared it needed replacing.  

We ordered the parts this past Tuesday to the tune of $60.00.  They'll be in next week, Wednesday or so.  We're  thinking of doing the job ourselves, but we really don't have the tools (torque wrench and special Kawasaki tools for removing/installing bearings) to do it.  So likely after that it'll be off to the shop.   Just for your records and future bearing jobs my present mileage is 28,236.  I know of Tweek's Classic and Wag's 800 Classic needing bearings here in NC, but I've no clue what the mileage was at the time.  I got to ask.  

BabeNthWnd v 3113 (The Kawasaki 1500A9 service manual suggests new grease every 2 years or 12k miles, whichever comes first.  I suggest more often if the bearing get a lot of water or dust.  -Manjo V1111)

5. Which tools do I need to maintain my bike & which tools are nice-to-have? return to Master Table of Contents

5.1. For changing your oil, spark plugs, tightening miscellaneous nuts and bolts, you should have a set of METRIC box wrenches; both a Philips and standard blade screw drivers, standard pliers and needle nose pliers. Many of these tools are similar to the basic tools in the tool kit you should have stored in a compartment just behind the rider’s seat (under the pillion pad) that’s accessed after you remove the seat from the bike. The B’s tool kit is under the p-pad, but it’s accessed at the rear of the p-pad.

5.2. For more involved maintenance you should have a set of standard METRIC sockets and socket wrench. A deep (and narrow) 18 MM socket for taking out the deeply recessed second spark plug on each cylinder is a good tool to have. Some standard spark plug sockets have side walls that are too thick to fit into the deeper and narrow spark plug recess to get down to the spark plug itself.  A torque wrench is also useful. A 10 ft-lbs. to 75 ft-lbs. torque wrench for tightening spark plugs (12.5 ft-lbs.), oil drain plug and oil screen plug (14.5 ft-lbs.), and engine and frame bolts (25 – 45 ft-lbs.) should take care of many jobs.     return to Master Table of Contents

 

6. Where can I get a Service Manual (and/or Owner’s Manual) for the BUBF?  return to Master Table of Contents

6.1. Your dealer has or can order you the service manual (and/or a replacement owner’s manual) for your bike. Both are important for general reference and specific information on your bike year. Clymer has sells a BUBF manual #: M357 1987-1998 Kawasaki VN1500 Vulcan. This is the BUBF (non-Classic) version. In any event, don’t leave home without your owners manual.

TECH TIP: Source for shop manuals is Motocom http://www.motorcycling.net/. They deliver (promptly) and take Visa. I've used them and they're faultless, at least they were for me. Toa #1614 (KS'96 BUBF Sport Cruise, Wellington, New Zealand http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~hasl/

TECH TIP: I have the Clymer book in question for our BUBF’s. It is not bad. I find that with Mother KAW’s maintenance manual they are perfect. One compliments the other. Ken ‘Gods Sky Pilot’ Byars VROC #2491       

return to Master Table of Contents

 

7. How do I change the oil and check the oil screen?                     return to Master Table of Contents

7.1. First of all, to check your oil level, with the engine off and the bike upright and level, look at the lower right hand side (as you would be sitting facing forward on the bike) low on the engine crankcase for a small round glass window about one (1) inch in diameter. With the A/B/L, you’ll need someone to sit on the bike to hold it upright OR (for the more daring :) practice holding the front brake lever with your right hand as you bring the bike carefully to an upright position. You then have to get down on your knees and look down over the exhaust pipe at the oil level window at the bottom of the engine. In the window you will see a vertical black line about 1/8th of an inch wide going from the bottom to the top of the window. The "line" is a slit in the crankcase through which oil flows filling the oil indicator window. To the right of the window are letters "H" and "L" embossed on the metal at the top and bottom of the window which are the high and low oil level indicators, respectively. Your oil level must be between these two markers, preferably close to the "H" without the oil level going over this line. You want to avoid over filling of the oil crankcase.

7.2. Oil is the life blood of your scoot, car, and any 4 stroke engine. Your scoot operates at high temperatures most if not all the time. The one maintenance task you can do to insure long engine life and good performance is to change your oil regularly. Your owner’s manual provides guidelines for changing your oil. Given the relatively low cost of motorcycle engine oils (which contain more oil additives NOT contained in standard automobile engine oils), you should seriously consider changing your oil more often, especially when the scoot has been running hard on long trips or in less than ideal weather and road conditions.

RIDER EXPERIENCE( thread): Just curious what kind oil pressure a late model VN1500 has? I've seen oil press gauges for sale for older Kawasaki’s that were calibrated to 15psi, and older Hondas that were calibrated to 100psi.Thanks, just wondering what is going on down there...  Fleshwound

I can't give you specific numbers, but can explain the difference. Early KAW’s, (2 strokes, triples, Z bikes, etc.) used roller bearings on their main, and rod journals. Roller bearings don't need much pressure, just lots of flow.  They can run on as little as 4 PSI. Hondas, and newer KAW’s all use shell bearings, similar to most automotive applications, and they need more pressure.... in general, 40-60 PSI is a good range. As far as I know, all the Vulcans have shell bearings, and operate with pressures above the 15-PSI gauge.  Eat A Peach, Snake ~V~7376 MBDMBN W.A.R.B.: Bin 010110 99 1500 Classic, Blue/silver

I tee'd off of the oil gallery on my 1500A where the idiot light sensor plugs in, and ran it up to a mini pressure gauge which tops out at 80 psi.  Once my Amsoil 20/50 warms up, the pressure is 60 to 75 lbs, depending on engine speed.  Dino 20/50 will run 55 to 70 lbs., but will drop its viscosity in use faster than the synth. -- Maccs ~V~657 '93 1500

The older KAW’s, like my KZ900 (1976) have very low pressure... most of the time under 10 lbs. Vulcans on the other hand run at high pressure. My BUBF has about 40-50 lbs at idle when warmed up and goes up to around 90 lbs at highway speeds (75-80 mph). Only time the pressure goes low is when you grab the brakes or have the idle set toooooo low... When you grab the brakes, the pressure will show 0 (zero) for a few seconds and when you idle the bike too low, it can get down to 20-25 lbs.... -- wiredgeorge ~V~2420 CMA 74623 Venturer 147/Chaplain BUBF nadfi kz900 mico Tx 

My old KZ900 gauge only went to 15lbs also, According to the dealer back then, it was because it was all roller or ball bearings in the engine, hi-volume, and low pressure. After all, 'oil pressure' is a measurement of resistance to flow.  I imagine it runs thru those ball or roller bearings pretty easy, cthomp77@postoffice.swbell.net <cthomp77@postoffice.swbell.net>

7.3. The Service Manual lists oil ASAE SE or SF. As of this writing, the current designation SJ is used for most if not all motorcycle engine oil. Depending on outside temperature, 10W-40, 10W-50, 20W-40 and 20W-50 are recommended. Your owner’s manual has a chart with recommendations for oil viscosity for specific temperature ranges.  In a 1998 issue of Motorcycle Consumer News, it was strongly suggested that SJ designation and oil of 10W40 or HIGHER weights be used since they contain the necessary amounts of phosphorus, a key wear reducing additive.  Click here for a good general article on motorcycle oil.

TECH TIP: quote from the Clymer manual, page #71 "CAUTION Do not use SH rated motor oil in the Vulcan. This type of motor oil was developed to optimize fuel economy in an automobile engine. The SH oil contains friction modifiers (not always listed on the oil container) that reduce the internal frictional losses thus achieving a higher mpg rating. This type of oil will create slippage with the [Vulcan] multi-plate wet clutch assembly as well as the one-way starter clutch assembly. It may cause transmission wear and pitting due to the decreased shear stability of the oil"

7.5. The oil drain plug is located UNDER the engine on an imaginary line between the right and left rider foot pegs. The engine should be hot in order to insure as many particles as possible in the oil are in suspension. Place a suitable pan, about 3-4 inches deep that can hold up to 4.0 quarts of hot oil, under the engine and then remove the drain plug. After the draining oil has slowed to a trickle, using a cloth or paper towel, wipe clean the drain plug and washer, and the area on the engine where the drain plug and washer make contact with the engine. Thread the drain plug into the crankcase by hand, and then torque the plug to 14.5 ft-lbs. If you don’t have a torque wrench, finger tighten the plug until it’s snug and then turn the plug in with a wrench another 1/8 to1/4 turn.  Do not over tightening the plug to avoid stripping the aluminum engine case drain plug threads. 

TECH TIP:  Stripped Oil Plug threads?? Well, problem solved.  I stopped by a local (good) auto parts store, as the local AutoZone place is sub-par.  I  brought in my oil plug and described that a couple of the threads in the aluminum case had come out with the plug and asked what they recommended as a fix.  I figured I'd have to drill and re-tap another hole. Well, they took the stock oil plug, which they determined to be a 12mm plug with a 1.25 pitch(?).  They sold me a 12mm plug with a 1.75 pitch, which was self-tapping.  I went home, sprayed the plug down with WD-40  and started to thread it into the hole using a 3/8" ratchet and a socket.  Every turn or so I would back the plug out and wipe all of the metal shavings away and blast it with more WD-40.  A couple of minutes later the plug seated and the job was done.  The plug came with a gasket, which I used, whereas my stock plug never had a gasket.  I filled the old BUBF up with oil and fired her up.  So far so good, I took it to work this morning and all appears fine.  This fix worked for a BUBF, but I'm not sure of the stock sizes of the plugs on other Vulcans. 

The plug was made by Oil-Tite, part number 65213, and was a 12mm with a 1.75 pitch (M12-1.75).  Cost was $2.99 (plus tax ;)  Repair time was about 5 minutes.

U-Turn ~V~1125 cmritz@yahoo.com '95 VN1500-A9 '96 VN800-B1 Stoughton, MA

 

7.6. You can go through the same procedure with the oil screen plug which is on the LEFT SIDE of the engine (as you sit facing forward on the bike) and along the same imaginary line between the rider foot pegs. Put your oil drain pan under the plug to catch any residual oil in the screen and screen passage. With the plug removed, you should see the shiny (solid) aluminum base of the oil screen facing you. With your fingers (or a pair of needle nose pliers), carefully reach in and pull out the oil screen, its spring, and washer. Check the screen for any new metal flakes or shavings since you last checked it. You can clean the screen with a low flash point solvent such as kerosene, but always be careful to keep the solvent away from any flame or object that might ignite the solvent.

7.7. Clean the engine where the oil screen plug meets the engine metal. Place the open rubber gasket end of the oil screen along with its washer and spring into the engine FIRST so that you see the metal base of the oil screen facing outward (towards you). Replace the oil screen plug by hand and torque it to 14.5 ft-lbs.

7.8. Place the oil pan under the oil filter (located at the rear of the engine) and unscrew the oil filter with your hand, an oil filter wrench of the proper size (medium 3 ½ to 4 ½ inch diameter), or worst case with a set of adjustable open end grips. You only need the grips if the person who last changed your oil filter put it on incorrectly (i.e., too tight).

7.9. Here’s a good way to install a new oil filter: after cleaning the engine area where the rubber gasket on the filter meets the engine with a clean cloth or fresh paper towel, place some clean fresh engine oil on your index finger. Apply a thin film of oil on the entire oil filter rubber gasket to insure the gasket and the engine face mate evenly and smoothly. Turn the filter until the rubber gasket meets the engine. Since most people don’t have a torque wrench and oil filter wrench, use your weaker hand to tighten the filter making it less likely you’ll OVER TIGHTEN the filter!! If you are RIGHT handed use your left hand (and vice versa for lefties [i.e., use your right hand]), to tighten the filter another ¼ to ½ turn until it’s seated firmly in place. Over tightening will make it difficult to remove the oil filter at a later time and increases the possibility of distorting the rubber gasket which can lead to an oil leak where the gasket meets the engine. This is messy and can really slow down your trip when you go to start you bike and you find a pool of oil under (and perhaps all over) the engine.

7.10. From here’s it’s just like changing the oil on your cage: refill with oil to the proper level and turn the engine on for a few minutes and look for leaks. If there are no leaks at the filter, oil (and oil screen) plugs, or any where else, stop the engine and let the bike stand for 20-30 minutes to cool down, allowing the oil in the engine to drain down into the crankcase. Then top off the oil level as needed.

TECH TIP:  Here's a link to a great site created by TOA, a VROC'er #1614 out of New Zealand.  Step by step instructions with excellent pictures. http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/~hasl/oilchange.htm

TECH TIP: For those interested in the anatomy of various after market oil filters, the  following link contains a study which may be of interest:    http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml http://www.venturers.org/NextGenTech/V2tech.html   wiredgeorge ~V~2420 ISRA 1824

7.11. TECH TIP: The following oil filters are the equivalent in size to the Fram PH 6010 A which is slightly LARGER than OEM,

MFR

LARGER

3.25 inches long 

 Standard OEM

2.5 inches long

Kawasaki OEM 16097-1068, 16097-1072 16097-1064
AC Delco  PF 1127 PF 2135 
EMGO   N/A 10-82230
FRAM PH 6010 A 

6010 A

HONDA    N/A 15410M9-013 
K-MART 51046 or K48   
LEE LF2808   
LEE MAXI LF 2808 HP   
MIGHTY M3593 or M03950   
Minit-Lube PH4459   
MOBIL 1 M1-110  
MOPAR FOPH2808  
Motor Craft FL752 or FL810   
NAPA 1344  1358
Per-Form J-503  
Purolator    N/A ML16817
SEARS TP18  
STP SMO-10A or SO 2808  SMO-17
STP DUAL STP 2808  
TARGET SF 2808   
Valvoline V039   
YAMAHA    N/A 19305-35150, or 3FV-13440-00
WIX 51334  or 51358  

Recommended filters.
All have superior
filtering.
(SOURCE motorycleinfocalsci.com here).
About 3.25 inches long.
  • Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
  • Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
    Made by Champion.
  • Bosch 3323, about $6.
    Made By Champion.
  • Wal-Mart SuperTech ST7317,
    about $2. Made by Champion.
About 2.5 inches long.
  • Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
  • Mobil M1-108, about $12.
    Made by Champion.
  • Bosch 3300, about $6.
    Made by Champion.

These all came from (Greg "Trackman " Pierce #1126) (and updated by wiredgeorge V~2420 on 5/02 and 5/03) spending an hour with the Pep Boys oil filter cross index book. "Recommended filters...." added by Manjo 5/25/05

 

TECH TIP:   I replaced the Kawasaki oil pressure switch with a car switch that cuts on at 3.5 to 9 lbs. Works great and screwed right in. Same threads and pitch. Cost for the Kawasaki switch $28.00 and they [dealer] had to order. Car switch at Advance [auto parts] and it was in stock  $3.98. 
Vaughn "Skeeze" Devereaux, Screven, Georgia 1998 BUBF WARB #12  VROC #7378 

 

   return to Master Table of Contents

 

7a.   BUBF Spark Plug Information                     return to Master Table of Contents

7a.1. The key thing to remember on selecting a plug is that there's a spark plug tip heat range between approximately 700 and 1000 degrees where you will avoid a carbon build up on the plug and not over heat the plug where it will cause detonation and rough running.

A colder plug dissipates more heat and moves the plug temperature down towards or possibly below the 700 degree mark. A hotter plug will dissipate LESS heat and move the plug temperature towards and possibly beyond the 1000 degree mark. The color of the plug comes from the air-fuel mix. A lighter gray plug color indicates a leaner mix, the darker brown color indicates a richer mix. On the BUBF, a card board brown color, or a bit lighter in color, is goodness.  If there's any confusion about the plugs in your BUBF, remove them and replace with DPR7EA-9 (7's).  This is a good all round spark plug.  You can go up or down from there.  Manjo ~V~1111

7a.2. The stock BUBF uses a DPR7EA-9 spark plug made by NGK of Japan.  For racing, the service manual calls out a DPR8EA-9, which will dissipate more heat (from the tip of the spark plug, not form the engine) than the "7", and would be considered a "cooler or colder" plug.  For cold weather operation or in some cases where there appears to be an accumulation of carbon on the plug, you can try a DPR6EA-9, which dissipates LESS heat and is considered a "hotter" plug than the stock "7".  These are plug specifications for the BUBF A and B series up through 1995. Check your service manual or owners manual for later model years including the L series BUBF’s.

TECH TIP: NGK makes a "range" (DP6 through DP9) of spark plugs that will fit your BUBF: DP6EA-9, DP7EA-9, DP8EA-9, DP9EA-9 STANDARD COPPER, and DP8EVX-9, DP9EVX-9 FINE WIRE PLATINUM. The higher the number the colder the plug, or the more heat it will dissipate. Check your service manual or owners manual for the recommended spark plug number for your BUBF and your riding style. WARNING: using a hotter or colder plug than recommended by Kawasaki in your owners manual or service manual could cause engine damage and/or performance problems. Manjo ~V~ 1111

TECH TIP:  I was installing a Uniden radar detector and it was picking up false signals from somewhere within the bike.  Essentially, once revs got above idle the detector would signal the detection of a Laser radar in operation (unlikely in my driveway huh).

I had a number of suggestions including one I try the resistor sparkplugs from NGK, model #DPR7EA-9 .  It worked wonders.  Spark is still strong and false signals have disappeared.  Toa   VROC #1614 Wellington, New Zealand

TECH TIPMake your own spark plug wires: How to Make Replacement Spark Plug Wires

TECH TIPFound a dandy spark plug cross reference: http://www.clubplug.net/auto_ngk.htmlHere's another: http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs_catalog.htmwiredgeorge ~V~2420 ISRA 1824

TECH TIP: Read the tech info at this site. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/techtips.asp?nav=31000&country=US. There are five pages of easy to understand info about sparkplugs. Great 101 on the subject. Wiliedog ~V~005, 7000H, scurrilous Blk/Rd D1 Coushatta, LA

return to Master Table of Contents

7c.  Battery Information and links

The BUBF uses a 12v 20Ah battery.  This describes a 12 volt, 20 Amp hour wet or sealed battery.  The rough dimensions of the battery are 8" x 3.5" x 6.375".  

The most important battery factor is to keep the terminal connections clean and  tight.  A loose or corroded connection will cause your bike to exhibit a whole slew of weird problems that will finally end in the bike not running if the connection completely fails.  This is because the battery is in the ignition circuit between the alternator  and  the coils.  A failing battery (i.e., a battery that will not take or hold a charge) will stop engine operation because current will not pass through the battery to the rest of the bike's electrical system.  Before the bike stops completely, the low voltage will cause the bike to exhibit weird symptoms that can look like a failing fuel pump, spark plug coils, or bad regulator/rectifier.

TECH TIP: Here is some info that would be useful on the BUBF site:

Batteries that will fit the BUBF are nominally 8 1/8" x 3 7/16" x 6 3/8". They must also have sufficient power to crank the big twin. There are maintenance free and standard batteries. The standards must have their cells filled with battery acid and a 1VDC trickle charge applied for about 24 hours. The price of these batteries ranges anywhere from $30 for a Champion at Wal-Mart to $140 for a Yuasa maintenance free as quoted by Alamo Cycle Plex (notorious thieves).

Brand                           Code                     Comment
MAINTENANCE FREE    
Yuasa                     YTX24HLBS          High Performance Maint. Free
Yuasa                     YIX50L-BS          Maint. Free
- Conv.-    
Yuasa                     Y50-N18LA-CX            Conventional
Yuasa                     Y50-N18L-A        Conventional
Magna Power  CB14L-A2FP         Conventional (AutoZone)
Exide                    50-N18LA                Conventional  (K-Mart)
Champion                     50N18LA2 Conventional (Sams/AutoZone)
Everstart ES50N18LA3          Conventional (Wal-Mart)
Diehard                      44018                     Conventional (SEARS)

I suggest you ask the VROC list for more suggestions. There may be other brands/codes that will fit the BUBF. I can't confirm all these as some suggestions came from the VROC archives and only from one individual.

The battery codes actually mean something (surprise). The code ES50N18LA3 means:
ES = Everstart
50 = cranking or starting power
N  = vented type
18 = performance level
L  = polarity location
A  = exhaust (where overflow is located)
3  = terminal configuration

((from http://www.yuasabatteries.com web site))

Found that most batteries were made by Exide or Yuasa, which owns or is owned, in part, by Exide and by the lesser-known company, Japan Storage Battery Co. Ltd. Many batteries made by this company are manufactured in Taiwan under license.

Last note! Most batteries for the BUBF are conventional and must be charged. Most auto parts places WILL NOT add the battery acid but will allow you to buy the battery and then they will charge it for free. It needs to charge overnight on a trickle charger. There is almost always a "CORE" charge of about $5 if you don't give them your old battery and most places will allow you to pay this charge up front and then bring in your old battery the next day and get the charge refunded.

If you are a BUBF owner and know of or use a different battery that will work in a BUBF, please send the info along.  wiredgeorge v2420 bubf nad Mico Tx

TECH TIPI just bought my second Shurefire C50-N18L-A. I would imagine it is the same as the Yuasa/Exide/Champion/Everstart.  More than likely all made by Exide and distributed under all sorts of names.  Seems to be a good battery though.

Dutch~V~1009s

TECH TIPS: Wal-Mart carries the EverStart which are the YUASA batteries. The "ES" replaces all the YUASA letters.  http://Everstartbatteries.com/products/use/motorcycle.asp  Don Inamasu - Very Short Person - VROC #5569,  '00 Vulcan 750;'99 Triumph Legend;'95 Honda PC800;'83 Honda C70 Passport Stockton, CA 95219

TECH TIPS: You need to go to Wal-Mart and check their list since the Ever Start web site does not specifically call out batteries for Kawasaki Vulcans. Manjo 12/11/02

TECH TIP:  YUASA link http://www.yuasabatteries.com/  Use the YUASA Application Chart to find the current batteries for your BUBF.  The 1995 1500A/B currently uses a YTX24HL-BS.  Manjo 12/11/02 

 

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