/  1500A/B/C Survey  / Technical FAQ page 1

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TECH TIP: Real nice link detailing self help for tire changing... also has a nice assortment of links at the bottom. The graphics (jpegs) would make putting the whole thing on your site a pain but you might want ot put this link on the bubf site... it has directions for a changing machine, bead breaker and balancer... BTW: The balancer deal looks almost identical to what I came up with on my own ;-) http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html. wiredgeorge ~V~2420 96 1500A nadfi kz900 Leander, TX

TECH TIP: Tire bead breaking tips:  I have a large bench vice, too.  The vice jaws are just a bit higher than the tire rim.  Set the tire in the vice, then place small wooden blocks just below the rim on both sides of the tire and extend beyond the rim.  This will give the depth to push in on the tire bead and not make contact with the metal rim.  Turn the vice handle slowly and watch that the jaws don't catch the rim.  If they start to come close, use a little bigger blocks. The vice will break the bead easily.  Save the blocks for the next tire change.  You may need to place a small block on the vice slide under the tire to raise the tire rim above the top of the vice jaws. 

I use a big "C" clamp with a block of wood on each side.  Basically same way
as vise. Steve Cifra VROC 7902

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17. What FAR's exist and which ones are needed for my BUBF?                     return to Master Table of Contents

17.1. Kawasaki FAR’s or Factory Authorized Repairs are sent to the KAW dealers in the form of bulletins. Each bulletin is specific to the series (A, B, or C) and to a VIN number range within that series. A FAR will describe a problem or manufacturing defect discovered by KAW and the means and resources to fix or eliminate the problem.

17.2. The Big KAW says you can ask your dealer to check for any out standing FAR’s for your scoot’s VIN number. If your bike is under warranty, and you are experiencing problems, or it’s likely you will have the problem occur, arrangements should be made with the dealer to have the FAR done.

17.3. If your bike is out of warranty, you need to discuss the situation with your dealer. After having spoken with your dealer, and there still remains a question whether the FAR should be done to your scoot, call KAW Tech Support in California with your VIN number and the FAR description and see if KAW Tech can help you with your specific situation.

TECH TIP: William Mallett wrote:   Does the VROC web site maintain any list of known factory defects.   Similar to maybe Service Bulletins at a car dealership or recall info stuff like that. You can search the archives at http://www.vroc.org/mailarchive/search.html . For example: To look for Factory Authorized Repairs, search for FAR's or FAR;1500 , etc. Lots of good stuff in there. -- "Tweek", VROC #940, VRA #1--13-1A-800B3 Iron Eagles Motorcycle Club, Zebulon NC '98 Vulcan 800 Classic; Green/White (frog)          

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19. Which windshields fit a BUBF?                     return to Master Table of Contents

19.1. There are several manufacturers (Cyclear makers of the Memphis Fats and Memphis Slim; Kawasaki Fire & Steel, National Cycle, Slipstream, Rifle, etc.) making several windshield styles for the BUBF. The Rifle brand windshields have been designed to better accommodate the A series speedometer which sits on top of the indicator console. They have a round hole cut in the shield that the rounded forward end of the speedometer pokes through.

19.2. The one consistently good suggestion for picking the right w/s height, is to get one you can just see over without straining to look over the top. You will keep the wind from hitting your face and you will still be able to look over the rain streaked w/s as you ride. You’ll have better visibility and be safer, without a sore back from pushing yourself up to see over the streaked w/s to see the road and vehicles ahead of you.  

TECH TIP: If you have a w/s on your bike and think you are getting a lot of head buffering over the top, just take your hand and put it up towards the top edge of the windshield as you're riding.  You can feel the flow of air over the top of the w/s.  Move your hand back along the flow of air to see if it's hitting your helmet.  If so, you may want to consider a taller windshield to reduce the head buffeting you've identified.   Manjo ~V1111

19.2.1. Additional Windshield Information : Memphis Fats: comes in 7 or 8 different colors and installs in 30 minutes, if you know what you are doing, an hour if you haven't put one on before.  It can be removed in 3 minutes, and reinstalled in about 5 minutes with the quick release hardware set.  Colors include several two-tones to match your bike; hardware on the shield (metal straps) is chrome on both sides; front and back mounting hardware is stainless steel (shiny) plates and shiny bolts/nuts; shields come in 3 different heights for all riders; angle of windshield tilt is adjustable; height is adjustable, depending on where you mount along the fork tubes; you can choose the Memphis Slim if you want a narrower shield price: about $180 with mounting hardware from Ron Ayers (includes discount)

Memphis Fats with homemade notch for speedo.   Windshield is tilted back further to reduce wind resistance.  Thumb nail. Click for larger picture. Manjo ~V~1111

TECH TIP: I "made" my old style through-hole Memphis Fats w/s mounting unit (probably exactly like yours) into a "Q.D.-like" slotted mounting system.  I cut out the back of both holes so that  the w/s shield slip on to the upper and lower bolts.   Since then, I found a better way to cut the bottom slot.    If you look at a picture of the Memphis Q.D., you’ll see the side mount on the shield basically has open slots which I copied. There are two slots. The top slot is cut perpendicular to the shield and the other is cut vertically from the BOTTOM of the mount and then forward creating a sort of upside down "L" slot. The result is, the bottom slots on each side  hooks down  and is then pushed back onto the bottom shield mounting bolts. Then the top slots tilt in towards the bike and slide on to their bolts. The w/s mounts are made of aluminum. Take a pencil or marker and layout the path of the slot you want to cut into the hole. Using a hack saw, you can cut all four slots in about 15 minutes. Cost is zero dollars and zero cents. It now takes me 30 seconds to get my shield off, and 60 seconds to put it back on and tighten all four bolts. The wind is "pushing" the w/s in towards the bike, so there’s no danger of the shield coming off on the road. Manjo ~V~1111 1500A9 Memphis Fats. 13" shorty W/S

19.2.2. Rifle comes in two colors installs in 20 minutes up to an hour; removes in three minutes - (four bolts) reinstalls in three or four minutes all hardware is polished stainless steel, including nuts and bolts hardware looks like part of the bike, when windshield is removed comes in different heights and widths height and angle of tilt is adjustable the plastic seems thicker than F&S drawback- standard HD windshield bags won't fit between the center upright supports price: about $180 from Sherm's

19.2.3. Fire & Steel comes in two colors (clear or tinted) installs in at least an hour, even if you know what you are doing difficult to remove, certainly not a quick job hardware on shield (metal straps) is chrome on front and flat black on the back side mounting hardware is flat black metal tubing, with flat black bolts/nuts comes in 2 different heights mounting is fixed, and not height or angle adjustable price: about $200 from Ron Ayers (includes discount) Phil ~Gunslinger~ VROC-953 Martinsville, Virginia, USA '98 1500 Classic

19.3. War Story Contribution: " This was one of the most difficult decisions I had to make with both my SE and A models. These models are hell to fit a windshield on properly because of the speedometer. Some experiences and recommendations by owners who have them would have really helped me. This is also one area where size doesn't necessarily mean best. On my SE, I bought some little 17 inch discount windshield that worked perfectly, forming a nice smooth, perfect airflow around me and didn't hurt bike performance. When I bought my A, I couldn't remember which one I had on my SE and I bought a larger one that my dealer recommended. It sucked. It was just a big slab that caused turbulence and buffeting and made it unstable at higher speeds."  anonymous.

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20. Where do I get saddlebags and a replacement seat(s) on my BUBF?           return to Master Table of Contents

In general, saddlebags come in soft, and hard styles.  The soft bags are plain leather.  Hard bags can be leather or plastic, but keep their form.  Some hard plastic bags have a key lock.

Seats or saddles come in either leather (not often) and a synthetic leather.  Synthetic leather is your better bet since it will be LESS likely to crack and discolor.  To find the current best choices, post an inquiry to the VROC Techtalk newsgroup, check the VROC vendor listing, and Google "Vulcan seats price".   

20.1. You need to determine how much stuff you need to carry in the bags and how much you want to spend. If your scoot doesn’t have saddlebag guards, or brackets as they are sometimes called, you probably want to consider getting a set. The guards/brackets usually attach to the rear fender side rails and keep the bags from resting on the fender and shocks (no hole-wearing contact with shocks). They also provide some clearance from the exhaust pipes, too (no burn holes in saddle bag).

20.2. The stock seat and pillion pad are functional and do a good job for most riders. Wider, better padded, leather tassels with Conchos, leather or leather–like after market seats for the BUBF are available from Mustang, Travelcade, Cobra, and other manufacturers.

20.4 TURN SIGNAL RELOCATION KITS.   

 

There used to be several relocation already fabricated options, but they have gone away.  Click here to read about a couple other approaches you might try, one of which involves no extra bracket.

 

L-Bracket: What will work to move your rear signals to the license plate are two (2) flat pieces of steel (stainless is best) strapping (measuring approximately 2-3 inches wide and 6-7 inches long) bent up halfway across the width at a 90 degree angle with holes drilled near the tip of each end.  The holes must be big enough to accommodate the rear turn signal assembly (approximately 1/2" in diameter, but measure first) and the other hole used to attach the bracket to the license plate frame.  My suggestion is to position the rear turn signals as far as possible to the left and to the right side of the license plate for best viewing by the vehicle behind you.  Below is the same concept in ONE piece described in detail.

 

TECH TIP:  I made a simple bracket in about an hour that allowed me to successfully relocate my rear turn signals.  I bought a 6 in. steel right angle brace (6 inches on a side) at Home Depot.  I flattened the right angle and put a 90-degree bend 1 1/2 inches from each end.  I drilled a 1/4 in hole in the steel bar that matched up with the license plate brackets and a 3/16 in hole in each end to match up with the pigtails coming out of the turn signals.  I drilled a 1/4 in hole in the fender behind the license place bracket and a 3/16 in hole in each side of the back of the license plate mount that fastens to the rear fender.  Ran the light wires inside the rear fender, through the holes and to the turn signals, which I bolted to the ends of the light bracket.  Bolted the bracket up to the back of the license plate mount and it was finished.  The bracket looked like this when finished.

                  |_____/\_____|

The 1 in V in the center of the bracket was required for the bracket to come out the same length as the license plate bracket.  All but about 1 1/2 inches of wire is completely concealed on each turn signal. John T Plano, v4257 Texas "98 1500A Ears Shaved, Rejetted

Saddle Bag Bracket.  Wolfcrews continues to support BUBF's with his hosting of a plan for saddle bag brackets for our soft bags.  Check it out.

WAR STORY CONTRIBUTION: "I use the F&S saddlebag support on my "A", but it seems that it's made so that once you put the bag on it's never coming off. See http://vulcan.wolfcrews.com/sb_support/

20.5 Enhance Rear Turn Signals to Running and STOP Signals

This may be useful to put on the BUBF site for others who want to do this.  A while back, someone, (I forget who, sorry) posted the website for The Electrical Connection in Knoxville, TN. <http://www.electricalconnection.com.

Amongst other trick stuff, they have a taillight conversion to make your turn signals into running lights and indicate you're stopping, which utilizes a half circle pc board with six LED's on it with one diode and four resisters. The kit is very simple to install, (read: If Dutch can assemble and thinks it's easy, it must be a piece of cake) with NO mods to the turn signals. You heard me correctly! The led group has double-back tape and is attached around the turn signal bulb. (rear) Looks sorta like o) inside the light housing. The black wire on the led set attaches to the hot side of the turn signal socket or wire leading to it. The red wire from the led set is fed out through the mount for each turn signal. (again we are referring to the rear here) The red wire is coupled to a two wire connector that then is then continued up under the seat. One wire from each side is connected to the brake light feed and the other two, one from each side is connected to the running light feed. If you have made good solid connections, you are done-button it up. This conversion uses the stock turn signal amber lenses but the brake and running lights appear red through them. Because of the way it is wired, the diode shifts the current when the turn signal is turned on and flashes the leds white with the regular turn signal bulb.

 The end result of all of this is two added red running lights, two added red brake lights and turn signals that are amber and twice as bright. When the brake is applied and the turn signal is on, the light switches between bright amber turn signal and bright red brake light. For $50, this is one of the most inexpensive safety additions I have ever seen. Sorry this got so long but I just wanted to write this up because I think it is a great addition. 

Dutch~V~1009, PNWVROC, Federal Way, WA

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20a.  Floor boards, handlebars, risers, cables, lines, etc.                      return to Master Table of Contents

TECH TIP: I put some Cobra floorboards on my A13 and my son’s A10. The left boards had to be cut 5/16" in order for them to fit in between the F&S engine guard and bike frame. They just simply were too thick. Other than that they are wonderful!! 12/30/1999 Lloyd "Mr. Osmo" Clem VROC #2004, Roswell, NM, ‘99 BUBF "Gray

TECH TIP: I put 5 1/2" x 2 1/2" risers on the 1500A9 a while back (these risers are no longer available and are not recommended due to product quality concerns.  I have since removed both the good riser and the one that broke while on the road).  Even with the non-stock 34" wide bars, the clutch and brake hydraulic hoses just fit, as well as the throttle cables.

Then I bought stock BUBF Buckhorns here from a fellow VROC'er and when I went to install them, all the hoses and cables were 2"-4" too short ;(

So with a lot of help from several VROC'ers and especially Thom Boswell, here's where I am right now:

1.  Thom measured the brake and clutch hoses on his 1500B1 (please note: he has a B1).  The B1 clutch hose is the same length, but the B1 stock brake hose is about 2 1/2 inches LONGER than the A's (the B forks are LONGER than the A forks).  Thom sent me the his brake hose and it's installed.  It not only made up for the 2 1/2" short fall, but is probably a little longer by about 1".

2.  I've ordered and installed Motion Pro's over length (7" longer than stock) black vinyl throttle cables.  They are too long by 2" plus inches, but I ran them through the fork and in front of the head light (down low), and they are working fine.

3.  As for the clutch line, I decided to try lengthening the steel pipe that runs between the upper and lower clutch hoses.  A fellow VROC'er, Tinker, is sending me the steel pipe with fitting that he replaced with one piece Russell ss braided line.  When I get the pipe, I plan to cut a 3 inch piece off one end, flair the cut end with the connectors in place, and see how that works.

I'm doing this on a personal budget.  With donated parts and buying the bars and new throttle cables, this will cost me about $125.00.  Right now I feel very lucky and appreciate everyone's help here.

Russell, Goodridge, and Arlen Ness (AN has custom kits plus connectors that are reasonably priced), all make good stainless steel braided hydraulic lines that will run you about $70.00 for the brake line, and about $100.00 for the clutch line for CUSTOM over length lines (each should be about 2 1/2" linger, but MEASURE before ordering for YOUR specific bike).  Paul Taylor has suggested slicing in a piece with off the shelf connectors which will be Plan B, if extending the line doesn't work.

Motion Pro will also make custom stainless throttle cables.  I never got a price on these, but I would say they'd be at least $75.00.Manjo ~V~1111

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23. Where can I get more information and see other BUBF’s on-line?             return to Master Table of Contents

23.1. There are several excellent sources for more information on your BUBF. Your Owner’s Manual and the VN1500 Service Manual; the VROC Message Archives accessed through the same VROC home page that got you here; and the daily posts made to the VROC mailing list which you can join quickly and easily. Go back to the VROC home page and follow the links to SUBSCRIBE..  Kawasaki provides excellent parts pictures and numbers at http://www.buykawasaki.com for current model (the last 5 years) Vulcan 1500.

23.2. After checking all the above sources, post a message to VROC with your question. There are VROC members that have been riding motorcycles for more than 35 years and there are members that have only recently begun to enjoy riding. There’s a wealth of knowledge and experience just a post away. Just be sure to do your home work and identify yourself and your BUBF year and series, and any modifications made to your bike that you’re aware of and you’ll get the answer you need faster.

23.3. Check these sites for BUBF pics and the VROC member pages.  http://vulcan.wolfcrews.com/97Vulcan1500A/ ,

Use the VROC Club Roster to identify BUBF's (1500 A, 1500 SE, 1500 L).  The list includes a column "Has a Photo".  If "YES", check out the indicated bike picture.    http://www.vroc.org/clubroster.php?sid=6ec6c3f881bf288cb34f96be6999360d

TECH TIP:For those interested, the deep purple metalflake color is Kawasaki #701.  Per Colorite, 800 - 358 - 1882, the complete paint job is:  Purple base coat #1466; second coat is #3366; last coat is clear.  Touch up is #TFC- 3366.  Paint pen is $9.65; bottle is $10.95.  Colorite is reported to be an OEM paint supplier for all bikes.  Anyone considering a paint job may want to speak to them.  Thanks to somebody's previous note on Colorite.  Airwolf #1898

As a last resort, you can also go to http://www.buykawasaki.com/ and take the link “view parts diagram”.

Select “motorcycle” in the first pull down menu and then the Vulcan  BUBF and year from the next menus.  You will see a 2" x 3" picture of the BUBF.  Although small, the picture will give you a representative look at the bike.  It's a .jgp that you can right click and "copy", then paste in any graphics package and make a little bigger.

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24. Are there any known problems I should look out for?                     return to Master Table of Contents

24.1. There is a metal hydraulic clutch line that is routed under the tank and over the top back of the rear cylinder along the frame. If this hydraulic pipe rubs against the cylinder, the vibration of the engine can eventually rub a hole in the line and leave you stranded with no clutch. To check to see if you may have the problem, on the left side of the bike, look at the top of the rear cylinder. If you see there is a metal hydraulic line bent over the cylinder and rubbing against the cylinder (It may be slightly up in under the rear of the gas tank and near the upper frame tube). If it’s rubbing the cylinder, just bend the line and route it so that it is not against the top of the cylinder. Many 1500A models come from the factory with this potential problem, but it can be quickly corrected if you know where to look.

24.2. War Story Contribution: "Hehehe, this little problem left me sitting, with no way to disengage the clutch, 30 miles from nowhere, in the bottom of a low water crossing on the Llano river in Southwest Texas. It is possible to patch this line using a fiberglass repair kit, 4 inches of 5/8 inch fuel line, and 2 hose clamps, while sitting in the parking lot of a NAPA store in a small West Texas town with no motorcycle shop. You just have to be a little desperate and a long way from home to accomplish this. J "

24.3. War Story Contribution: "I experienced this one week after owning the bike, in a rainstorm. Fortunately I was close to home."

24.4. War Story Contribution: We just started climbing into the Big Horns, cruising about 30 -  40  mph because of the poor visibility, I down shift - or tried to - all of  a  sudden I had no clutch. I manage to keep the bike going and pull over  off  the road. The bike kills when I get it stopped. Needless to say I  started  to get a little worried, we’re about 10 miles from the nearest town,  it’s  cold and raining. A minute ago I was thinking ‘It doesn’t get any  better  than this’, now I’m broke down on the side of the road in the middle of  Wyoming.  We start looking over the bike and find a fluid running down the side of  the  rear cylinder. We trace the fluid to the hydraulic clutch line. It is  leaking and has lost its pressure. We see where this metal line has  vibrated down from the frame and was rubbing against the top of the rear  cylinder and wore a hole into it.  With the help of my brother, he pushed while I tried to pop the bike  into  gear, we got the bike going and putted back to town. Once in town we  tried  to figure out what to do. After looking in the yellow pages we decided  to  head back to Gillette (70 miles in the wrong direction) to the nearest  Kawasaki Dealer. After a few tries at push starting the bike we were  getting  pretty good at it. My brother nearly fell flat on his face a  couple  of times because he had a hold of the sissy bar when I popped into gear  and  tried to take off. I can’t stop because the bike will  kill  because a can’t disengage the clutch. It’s bad enough being broke down on a  road  trip, but in this nasty weather; I don’t think any biker would wish this  on  anybody, regardless of the make of bike he rides.   Anyway, we get the bike going again and head back to find the Kawasaki  shop.   I’ve got to say that were it not for my brother , I would have been  up   a creek.... He told me how to shift gears without the clutch. It took  a   little finesse, at what sounds like the right RPM’s let up on the throttle   a  little and pop it into the next gear. I caught on pretty quick and soon   had  the bike up to freeway speeds. Got back to Gillette, got a room, found   the  shop. But it was Sunday so we waited till morning and got to the shop   early. Had to Federal Express Next Day Delivery a new clutch line. It  arrived about noon on Tuesday. Lakeway Power Sports in Gillette WY were  very accommodating. They let me do most of the work on the bike myself  and  helped me when I needed it, which did save me a few bucks.  We were back on the road by 2:00 and heading west.

24.2. While you're looking at the hydraulic line, also take a look at the wire harness running along the other side of the frame tube.  The wire harness can slip down and touch the rear cylinder head.  The heat off the cylinder and vibration can and will wear a hole through the harness cover and the individual wire insulation over time if allowed to touch.   To check for any wear problems, run your finger under the harness where it comes closest to the cylinder head.  If the harness cover feels rough or worn, carefully lift it (you might have to cut one or more plastic wire wraps) and visually check for wear or tears in the cover and possibly exposed copper wire in one or more individual harness wires.  If you find either, fix them as soon as possible.

You can use standard electrical tape for a quick fix.  For the long term, it is best to open the harness as little as possible to wrap heat shrink tape around any worn-through individual wires.  After loosely wrapping the wire, slightly heat the tape so it closes around the wire a bit, push it down the wire to the worn area, and then use a heat gun to seal up the shrink wrap tape on all the taped wires at one time.  

As for the wire harness cover, buy a roll of wire harness wrap tape (sometimes called cold wrap harness tape).  It comes as friction and non-friction wire wrap tape.  The non-friction tape is the standard stuff that has a sticky side.  Friction tape will stick to itself and gives you the opportunity to easily unwrap and re-wrap the harness if you don't get it the way you want it the first time.  Manjo v1111.

24.5. Some BUBF’s experience piston "rocking". At high speeds, the pistons can move from side to side just enough to allow engine oil to move around the piston rings and combust with the fuel. Oil loss can be as much as a quart every 500 miles. The solution requires the pistons, rings, wrist pins and sometimes the cylinder walls to be replaced. If you are loosing major oil, check with your dealer and with the big KAW for possible help with the parts and labor.

WAR STORY: There was never any formal FAR on this problem that I'm aware of at this time for piston "rock".  

Solution:  new 1996 Classic D pistons, rings, wrist pins, and cylinder (s) (if needed) to eliminate the oil burning problem.  In my case (1998) they also replaced a burnt valve.  KAW was providing the parts to fix the problem and the BUBF owner paid the labor.  

Now that the 1995's are a few years older, KAW is no longer providing the parts, last I heard.  This work was done on my bike at 20k miles and I'm at 60K miles now and burning very little to no oil when the carbs are synched.  I was burning 1 1/2 quarts every 1,000 miles at 60 MPH or faster before the pistons were replaced.  

Today, I would "guesstimate" the job including parts and labor would run about $1200-$1,600.  I'd wait until you had another good reason to pull the engine to fix this problem.  $500 is the cost to just pull, and put the engine back in place.  Manjo ~V~1111 1500A9

24.6. Some BUBF rear fenders will split or crack at the bottom edge below the tail light. KAW has been known to help fix this problem. You’ll need to provide KAW your scoot’s serial number so they can determine if a new fender is in order.

WAR STORY:  My fender started splitting about a year after I bought it back in ‘95. My friend has the twin bike (different color) we bought them about a month apart, and his split too. I guess it is very common with the older "A" models. So common that they redesigned it. Mine started splitting below the taillight, right in the middle, due to the vibration that the bikes are known for. God, I love those low rpm rumbles!! Anyhow the split eventually went all the way up to the taillight. Kawa wants the old fender back. I looked at a ‘98 at the dealer and noticed that there is now a piece of metal reinforcement on the inside of the fender in the back at the bottom to absorb the vibration. If you have any other questions, drop me a line.  U-Turn ~V~1125

24.7. WAR STORY: At 20,000 miles my exhaust pipe on the front cylinder detached/broke from the header. It rattled around inside the outer pipe until it wore a hole through. Major exhaust leak with a lose of power. Since the "B" is a limited production bike there were only two choices for new pipes Kawasaki @425/side or V&H @525 total. At the same time my stator and regulator/rectifier burned to a crisp. Have no idea if there is some relationship. Unknown Contributor.       return to Master Table of Contents

   /  1500A/B/C Survey  / Technical FAQ  page 1    

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