New York-Conventional wisdom holds that heavyset women shouldn't wear white because it accentuates their weight. Marissa Jaret Winokur,5 feet(1.5 meters) tall and an American size 11-12,wore white to the opening-night party of "Hairspray" on Broadway. Heavyset women are expected to wear their clothes long and loose-fitting. Winokur likes her skirts short and her T- shirts tight.Heavyset women are often presumed to hate their bodies,to have low self-esteem,to want to hide. Winokur appears relaxed and confident and perfectly comfortable as the leading lady in the new musical "Hairspray",which opened to effusive reviews this week at the Neil Simon Theater. "I feel like I'm sexiest in my horizontal prison-stripe dress,"she said. As Tracy Turnblad,Winokur plays a plump,enduringly hopeful teenager who wins a spot on a pre-Beatles television dance show rule by her peppy,well- proportioned peers.She leads the charge to racially intergrate the show,and she get the guy.The musical is based on the 1988 John Waters film,which starred Ricki Lake as Tracy and Divine as her mother. In person,Winokur's curly long dark hair is not as poofy as the bow-adorned wig she wears in the show.Her body seems more compact than oversize.But her personality is in some ways bigger than the one she portrays onstage,which is to say immense. Sitting in her dressing room before a recent evening performance,wearing an explosive-yellow flower in her hair and adding chocolate to her coffee because she is afraid of losing weight in the role, Winokur spoke excitedly and openly about her life.One almost worried that she would tire her valuable vocal cords or deplete the carbonated energy that propels her performance. Winokur showed no signs of wilting, despite having just come from Bloomingdale's,where she belted out a song in from of that store in the summer heat to promote a new line of "Hairspray" clothing.In just a couple of hours she would be giving it her all in the opening number,"Good Morning Baltimore." Winokur was the first person to audition for the role of Tracy,back in 1999.As if they couldn't quite believe they had found their leading lady on the first try,the show's creators kept auditioning. Winokur recalled saying to herself: "They're looking for Tracy again?But I am Tracy!"Winokur said that having to hold onto the role was also galvanizing;she started taking voice lessons twice a week to refine Tracy's high-pitched '60s sound. Jack O'Brien,the director of "Hairspray," said he never doubted that Winokur was right for the role,only whether she had the stamina for it.Tracy is onstage almost nonstop during the show,which is set in 1962 and features a steady stream of high-energy songs by Marc Shaiman and Scott Wittman,lots of bebopping dances by the choreographer Jerry Mitchell and multiple costume changes,care of William Ivey Long.(The book is by Mark O'Donnell and Thomas Meehan.) Mitchell said he saw Winokur grow into the role,especially in Seattle,where the show had a short run before coming to New York."She started to attack,"he said, "and blossomed like I've never seen anyone blossom." This what she has been working toward ever since her parent took her to a dinner theater performance of "Meet Me in St Louis"when she was abou 8. Winokur was the kind of child who got detention for stealing away to the stage door to catch a glimpse of Gregory Hines after a Broadway matinee of "Sophisticated Ladies"while her classmates were waiting for the bus."I was not going to leave until I meet the man,"she said. While "Hairspray" is her biggest break,it did not come out of the blue.During the last decade Winokur has had a solid career.She played Jan in "Grease" on Broadway,moved to Los Angeles and won roles in the movies "Teaching Mrs. Tingle" and "Never Been Kissed,"as well as roles in several television sitcoms. She gained a certain kind of fame for saying,"You are so busted,"as the character Janine in the Oscar-winning movie "American Beauty." Tracy is 16 and wide-eyed about the world.Winokur,29,has been around enough to know that her current success is wonderful,but not everything."At the end of the day it's your job,"she said."You know what's important in your life.I think that's what's helped me." Important to her now are her family, friends and her beau of four years,Judah Miller,a writer who lives in Los Angeles. Winokur said Harvey Fierstein,the veteran stage actor who plays her mother,Edna Turnblad,in "Hairspray",has been a grounding force in reminding her about what matters."When Harvey says to me, 'Relax,calm down enjoy this,'I'm old enough now to know he's right,"Winokur said. Winokur felt good about her body as the youngest of four children growing up in Bedford Village,New York.Even through high school,when girls often obsess about their bodies,Winokur emerged unaffected,she said.She was not teased by her classmates.She did not diet.She was a cheerleader and captain of the soccer team.She got plenty of attention from boys.And she wanted to be on Broadway. "She was always so confident and happy with what she was,"said Winokur's father, Michael,a retired architect."She never tried to be a Britney Spears-size person. She was always full of fire,always full of spirit." Winokur said that he would allow his daughter to skip school on occasional Wednesdays to accompany him to Manhattan for a matinee."All of them enjoyed the theater,"Winokur said of his children."She reveled in it."Sometimes, they even took in an evening performance of something else.Winokur recalls crying at curtain calls because she yearned so badly to be up there herself someday. her grandfather,Julius Winokur,was a prominent Broadway accountant.At home she listened to Ethel Merman records. Winokur and his wife,Maxine a retired teacher,recently moved to New Mexico both came to the opening night of "Hairspray"along with the rest of their immediate family.Her special guest was her middle-school teacher Don Walter. "She always had a presence onstage, she was almost fearless,"Walter said. "She was jsut a trouper right from the begining." In her career Winokur has succeeded in steering clear of fat-girl roles and instead played character parts that have tapped her comic side.In the film "Scary Movie," she got stuck in a dog door."I was full-out committed to getting through that door," Winokur said.The scene was shot in one take,she said,and the director had to leave the set because he was laughing so hard. "I don't take jobs that are about the poor, pathetic fat girl,"she said."I think that's really important.Fortunately my agent agrees with me." She has never had to wait tables to support her acting.When saleswomen bring her oversize clothes to try on, Winokur said,she protests,"No,I want clothes that fit me." She added:"I always wear tight clothes.I don't want them to cover up my body." Perhaps if things had not gone so well, Winokur said,she might have turned out differently."If I didn't have a boyfriend,if I hadn't had a career,I don't know how I would be,"she said."I might have dyed my hair blonde and lost 50 pounds. "I have friends who have made themselves really sick to lose weight,friends who go liposuction," she added."I get frustrated." Inevitably,since "Hairspray," Winokur has been touted as a role model for large girls who might want to follow in her footsteps, and she said she felt the burden of breaking new ground."This is a role that has never been done on Broadway before,"she said. "Here I am,the young character actress," she added. "I'm the lead this time."