Naples is the armpit or maybe the Philly of of Italy. I didn't like a thing about Naples except they have great pizza.
The day began in an inauspicious manner, taking a fast ferry from Capri to Naples. The fast ferries are good in theory, but in practice are stomach churning. They are basically big speedboats that don't allow passengers to go above deck because of all the rocking and spray from the water.
This also means that without fresh air and a ton of josteling, everyone on board was getting sick. Fortunately I didn't throw up, but I was close. I was never so happy to get ashore. SO, don't take the speed ferries unless you unless you never get seasick.
I arrive at Naples and hurry to get to a hostel someone recommended close to the ferry. Of course it's full, so I have to go crosstown to a hostel near the bus station.
I jump on a packed bus without getting a ticket-everyone else is doing it-and fight my way to get some free space for me and my backpack. In the course of the ride there is a time when I did find a seat, but an old man was literally sitting on my lap. I'll never be the same again.
So the bus is pulling up to the train station, and jumping in the backdoor is a ticket agent, who ignores everyone else and makes a beeline straight to me. He asks me for my ticket, and I fumble around in my bag hoping he moves along to the next passenger. He doesn't.
I finally fess up and tell him I don't have (or can't find) my ticket, so he starts screaming "26 euro penalty!" I'm pissed for him singling me out, so I think about making a run for it. Only thing is is I have my 40 lb pack, and before I know it 2 other short men with bus uniforms are surrounding me and saying "penalty!". I reach in my wallet to pay the stupid penalty and of course I don't have 26 euros, I only have 15. Wonderful.
I try to tell them I need to go to an ATM but none of them knows english, so they assume I am just trying to make a break for it and surround me and physically try to hold me on the bus. Finally they get the picture-which is good since I'm on the verge of pummeling these guys and getting myself thrown in jail.
Finally we all walk to the ATM in the bus station and everyone is staring because there is a tourist with a big packpack and escort of 3 short italian men in bus uniforms surrounding me. I'm muttering under (over?) my breath about what a crap city Naples is the whole way.
I get them their 26 euro and they say "buonecera" (have a good day) as they collect the money and walk away. I had some things to say back to them and it wasn't "good day."
Outside the train station in Naples you would think you were in Calcutta. There are people sleeping all over the streets near the station, wandering packs of gypsies trying to steal from you, stray dogs eating from the piles of trash that line the streets.
The traffic and driving in Naples is worse than Rome, and if you've seen Rome, you would think this isn't possible. Naples is Rome without anyone abiding by ANY traffic law. People driving on the sidewalks, going the wrong way on two way streets, motorcycles bumping into cars (and people) trying to get by. Crossing the street in Naples you want to kiss the ground on the other side if you happen to make it unscathed.
That evening I did find a pizzarea that is the best I've ever been to. The ingredients tasted like they had just been picked from the garden (just had simple mozzarela di bufula, tomatoes and basil.) and it was cooked perfectly. Pizza was invented in Naples and they know what the hell they are doing.
God, please let me make it from the pizzarea out of the ghetto and back to the bus station so I can get my ass back to Rome in one piece.