Now, this is what it's all about...
In order to preserve your autographs for a long time, it is important
that they be preserved as best as they can be. This means controlling
the envrionment that they are displayed or stored in. This page
is for those of you who don't know what to do with your "prize" once you
receive it. In my ongoing research, I have found two different opinions
on what to do. One side believes that autographed items should only
be stored in acid- and PVC-free plastic sleeves which should then be kept
in binders under optimal conditions. The other side says that the
only way to go is to frame it and hang it on the wall. Since you
can archive anything that is priceless to you (dresses, newspapers, magazines,
family/friend photos, AUTOGRAPHS!!!, etc...) I will discuss how to do
it to autographed photos and cards (for ease, any term "item" used
here is in reference to a photograph or card). However, you
can still use the ideas behind the process to archive just about anything.
While I agree with both opinions, I enjoy the hobby so much that I don't
feel that I get the full benefit unless I display my autographs on my
walls. While I wait to have the time to frame them all, I do store
them in protective sleeves and binders. I particularly enjoy sharing
them with my friends whenever they visit.
There are three ways to archive your autographs: framing, storage,
or encaspulation. Framing and storage will be covered here but since
I haven't tried encapsulating anything, I will not discuss it in detail
(maybe later). Encapsulation is the total confinement of an item
within two sheets of transparent polyester or mylar film, which are larger
than the item, and sealing it off from the outside environment using special
double coated film tape. Since the item will be protected from damages
caused by handling, moisture, contact with acidic material and harmful
chemicals (as long as the item is still 100% sealed), it can then be framed,
handled or stored away.
Basic Guidlines on Handling Autographed Items
Here a few guidlines about preparing and archiving your precious items:
- ALWAYS clean your hands before handling any autographed item. Only
hold photos or cards on the edges and never touch the photo surface.
Oil from your hands can smear or stain it; I always wear gloves.
- ALWAYS store your autographs, whether temporarily or permanently,
in a dark, low humidity area. The UV rays emitted by sunlight
is the most damaging way to lose your item. Also, humid areas
will cause a fungus to grow, yellowing the paper or photo (also known
as "foxing"). Both types of damage are irreversible.
- ALWAYS use acid-free materials (neutral pH) whether it is a backing
board, mat board, tape or paper. An acidic environment will turn the
paper or photo yellow and make it brittle. Acids have a pH of
6 or lower; neutral pH is 6.5-7.5 and alkyline is 7.6 or higher. You
can purchase acid-free materials at frame shops, hobby shops or office
supply stores. Only buy it if it states on the packaging that
it's acid-free. Alot of paper products are processed in an acidic
state (wood pulp and recycled paper products), which stay acidic in
its final state. To make sure an item is neutral, you can purchase
pH markers that will detect pH ratings.
- ALWAYS use PVC-free plastic. This pertains to the plastic protective
sleeves and corner tabs used to store and secure your photographs. Use
only sleeves that are made of polypropylene. PVC gasses will permanently
damage any item it comes into contact with (see the STORAGE section
- If you frame your autographs, you should purchase UV protective glass.
It may not provide 100% protection against damaging UV rays, but
it will protect them better than regular glass (remember, sunlight is
very damaging). It is a little bit more expensive but well worth
it on valuable or precious items. You can purchase this glass
at hobby shops like Michael's or you can ask for it at glass shops (duh!).
- NEVER use tape, glue or any other adhesive if it is not intended for
photographic or archival purposes. Regular, every-day tape is
not acid nor PVC free. The adhesive will not only damage the item
but it will stay on it even after the tape has been removed. You
can even use transparent self-adhesive photo corners. You should
always have it in mind that one day you may want to replace the item's
environment so make sure that you are able to remove it cleanly. The
safest way to.
- A mat SHOULD be used to compliment the item. Also, due to changes
in humidity, if the photo is not matted and is pressed against the glass,
it may eventually stick to it, permanently. Believe me, I have
lost a few non-autographed photos trying to peel the photo away from
If you don't feel comfortable with framing a valuable item but you really
want to display it, I recommend making a photocopy of it and then frame
that. You can then safely store your "original" in a safe and secure
Storage (Sheet Protectors)
Through my fiance, Erica, I found lots of information from various wonderful
and informative articles on sheet protectors through a great magazine called
Creative Keepsakes. This magazine is THE leading publication
for the scrapbooking hobby. I highly recommend this magazine as it
is very thick and nicely printed with TONS of information, ideas, and tips
not only for scrapbooking but also archiving photos. They also have
a committee made up of the industry's top leaders and researches who give
their own "CK OK" stamp of approval on archive quality. I invite everyone
to subscribe to it (no, I don't work or, in anyway, profit from this promotion)
- you can subscribe by writing or calling: Subscriber Services
P.O. Box 469007
Escondido, CA 92046-9007
Web site: www.creatingkeepsakes.com
Subscription rates are $23/year for ten issues (for multiple years and
International subscriptions, I recommend calling or writing them for more
Now on to protection...here's some information from an article from the
Sept./Oct. 1999 issue of Creative Keepsakescalled "The Skinny on
Sheet Protectors" by Gayle Humpherys. It details what are the good
types of sheet protectors and the types to avoid. Although this
article talks more in regards to protection of the photograph itself,
it is a great bit of information that can deal with autographed photo
preservation. The author of the article interviewed a preservation
specialist named Jeanne English to get the straight facts on what makes
sheet protectors safe for your memories.
Types of Sheet Protectors Materials
- Mylar/polyester. Mylar and other forms of polyester are
an excellent archival material. Mylar is fairly stiff and is used
often for side-loading protectors. these types of protectors usually
have holes punched in them and also require the material stored inside
to have punched holes. They often include a black backing paper,
which you can discard.
- Polyethylene. Polyethylene isn't commonly used for top-loading
sheet protectors. Instead, you'll find it used for protectors
with divided slots, such as designed to store negatives.
- Polypropylene. Polypropylene is the preferred - and most
common - material for top-loading sheet protectors. Several different
companies make quality polypropylene protectors. For a list of
companies whose sheet protectors carry the CK OK seal of approval, see
the "Certified to Be Safe" list below (along with web links or addresses
of the companies).
All three of these plastic materials are soft, pliable and have no odor
- characteristics to look for in an archival product. Two plastic
materials to ALWAYS avoid are acetate and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Acetate
can appear similar to Mylar, but Jeanne suggests that one way you can
tell the difference is that acetate tears very easily, while Mylar won't.
PVC - or vinyl - is a stiff plastic. It will stick to itself,
as well as to the top emulsion layer of your photographs. As mentioned
earlier, vinyl emits harmful gasses, so vinyl sheet protectors usually
have a definite chemical odor. Jeanne cautions that you should NEVER
use any sheet protector, or any archival material for that matter, that
has an odor.
Sheet Protector Choices
Sheet protectors come in several different varieties, including different
weights, appearances, and styles. Here are a few thoughts on these
- Weight. Heavyweight sheet protectors are usually more
durable. this gives you more protection but also adds more bulk,
resulting in fewer pages per album. However, what one company
labels as "heavyweight" might be different than another company's definition,
so compare different brands to find a weight you like. Jeanne's
favorite is a medium-weight protector, which is still durable but not
- Clear vs. non-glare. The choice between clear or non-glare
sheet protectors is often thought of as one of personal preference.
Jeanne recommends clear sheet protectors as the best choice -
not only because the colors in the photos show through more brilliantly,
but because some companies might add "particulate matter" to make their
sheet protectors non-glare, which can result in scratching on the top
emulsion layer of your photos.
- Pocket divisions. In addition to full-page, top-loading
sheet protectors, you can also find protectors divided into pockets
designed to hold individual photos or negatives. Jeanne points
out that these types of protectors are a fast and easy alternative to
traditional scrapbooking. You can also get more pages in a single
binder, and the photos can be labeled by writing directly on the sheet
protector with a permanent, photo-safe pen. Many protectors also
leave a strip beneath each pocket for writing in a caption or label.
Certified to Be Safe (according to Creative Keepsakes)
Numerous companies manufacture sheet protectors. The following offer
protectors that are CK OK certified. You can count on them to be
safe for your pages!
|C-Line Products, Inc.
Mt. Prospect, IL
7811 W. Stewart Ave.
Wausau, WI 54401
|Generations by Hazel
Eagle OPG, Inc.
St. Louis, MO 63141
|Pioneer Photo Albums, Inc.
9801 Deering Ave.
Chatsworth, CA 91311
|The Archival Company
PO Box 1239
Northampton, MA 01061-1239
Slip Agents in Polypropylene Sheet Protectors
Here is also some information on about slip agents in polypropylene sheet
protectors that may cause smudging :
"If you're using polypropylene sheet protectors, you might see some smudging
when the scrapbook pages are removed. According to Ed Stack of C-Line
Products, a leading manufacturer of sheet protectors, this smudging is
the result of "slip agent." Slip agent is a material added to polypropylene
during the manufacturing process to allow the sheets to run smoothly through
the machinery. As the polypropylene ages, the slip agent migrates
to the surface, where it's needed to work properly. If the polypropylene
rolls are processed too soon or if too much slip agent is added, the residual
slip agent can continue to migrate to the surface of the processed polypropylene.
Heat and pressure speed up this migration process, and smudging
Ed assured [Gayle, the writer] that slip agent isn't harmful to photographs
and doesn't affect the quality of the sheet protectors. Storing sheet
protectors away from heat and direct light can reduce the smudging. Contact
the manufacturer if a great deal of smudging occurs, as the sheet protectors
might be from a faulty batch of polypropylene."
Source: Sept./Oct. '99 issue of Creative Keepsakes by Gayle
Note: In my opinion, although the article is mainly concerned
with possible cosmetic effects on the photo, with autographs, this may
be more of a concern with potential damage to any paint pen-used autographs
so take great care in choosing the right material.
(WARNING: Still Under Construction and not anywhere as complete as
I want it to be)
Here is a list of basic items that you will need before framing:
- frame with glass (I prefer aluminum frames with UV reflective glass)
- mat cutter (there are various styles ranging from $25 to $1300 - Logan
makes very nice ones)
- utility knife
- razor blade
- pencil (3H or harder)
- kneaded eraser
- ruler with at least 1/16-inch increments
- metal straightedge with a non skid base
- acid-free backer board
- acid-free mat board (they come in many different colors and textures)
- acid -free linen tape
- clear polypropylene corner tabs
- large, solid and smooth surface to work on
- straightedge clamp (optional)
- matline (optional)
- dusting brush (optional)
On this page I will attempt to show you how to do it correctly (with
alot of help from Light Impressions). The materials you should use
are VERY particular and some of it can be purchased at your local hobby
shops or picture framers. Some of these places may even hold classes
that teach you proper techniques. Here is a company I use that specifically
sell archiving materials:
PO Box 940
Rochester NY 14603-0940
Check out Light Impression's web site for more detailed, professional
information. You can also order directly from their site but at
least order their free catalog and tip pamphlets!
Below, you will find descriptions and pictures showing, step-by-step,
how I mat and frame my pictures. Since I am a HUGE fan of signed
index cards, I will also show you how to combine them with your favorite
photo into one frame. Now, I am not a professional picture framer
(I learned on my own), I'm sure I'm not doing it everyone's way but, mine
look good, nonetheless. I will also show you the finished product.
I hope this page helps, because I have yet to find one that will tell
you how it's done much less show you. Besides, I have as much fun
framing my own items as I do collecting them. If you still don't
feel comfortable doing it on your own, you can always go to a professional
picture framer if you are willing to pay the high cost. This way
you know you will have it done right.
And now onto the show...
Purchasing the frame and preparing the mat:
Preparing the window:
- Choose a frame big enough to hold not only the autographed item(s)
but also part of the mat. The chart below will help you choose
the right size frame. Custom frames cans also be ordered or built
using frame kits.
|Item(s) To Be Matted:
|3" x 5" card or photo
||5-1/2" x 7-1/2"
|4" x 6" card or photo
||8" x 10"
|8" x 10" photo
||11" x 14"
|8" x 10" photo and index card
||14" x 17"
|11" x 14" photo or other item
||16" x 20"
- To get the right size of the mat, pencil small marks twice at each
edge of the glass from the frame onto the back of the mat. Try
to place the glass along an edge that was factory cut because it should
already be clean cut and straight.
- Line up the straightedge with the marks and using the utility knife,
cut from side to side.
- Find the center of the mat and pencil in lines showing the center
both vertically and horizontally.
Cutting the window:
- Measure the viewable area (the part of the item that you want
showing through the mat window) of the item to determine the size of
the window . Using light pencil marks, mark the center of the
item with marks at the top, bottom and both sides.
- As a general rule, mat borders should be at least two inches wide
with both sides and the top having the same width; the bottom should
be 1/4" to 1/2" wider.
- Using the centering lines on the back of the mat as a starting point,
transfer the measurements of the item onto the the mat and mark them
with the pencil.
- Since the window should be smaller than the item, the mat should overlap
it by at least 1/4" (if the desired viewable area is to the edges of
the item, measure in 1/4".)
- Before moving on to the cutting out of the window, measure each side
to make sure that the window edges will be exactly parallel to the mat
edges. If they are not, cleanly erase all the marks with a kneaded
eraser and begin again.
Assembling the mat:
- Line up and secure the straightedge to the left of the window guideline
- the mat cutter must be lined up on the inside (right) of the window's
cut-away section in order to get the correct beveled cut. (Note:
use a clean, sharp blade to get a smooth, clean cut)
- Starting at one corner, place the mat cutter against the straightedge;
if your mat cutter comes with a start/stop indicator and a retractable
blade, lower the blade when the indicator lines up to the guideline
perpendicular to it.
- Push the mat cutter smoothly along the straightedge with a downward
45 degree angle. This helps prevent the cutter from raising up.
The cut should follow the guideline.
- Slow down as you approach the last of the cut. Stop when the
indicator reaches just past the other perpendicular window edge.
Cutting barely past the window guidline will ensure that the cut-away
will come out without ripping it.
- Raise the blade and repeat steps 1 thru 4 going clockwise until all
four edges of the window have been cut.
- Carefully remove the cut-away. If a corner of the cut-away is
still attached, cut it off with a sharp razor blade.
- Erase all of the pencil marks on the back of the mat.
- After the window mat is cut, it must be attached to a backing board.
Cut the backing board the same size as the window mat.
- Lay the mat face down and the backing board face up with the tops
butted against each other.
- Cut a strip of linen tape about 1 inch shorter than the width of the
mat. Place it across the seam between the mat and backing board.
- Close the mat like a book and check that the corners of the mat and
backing board line up. If not, remove the tape and realign them.