Women, Sovereignty and
Fashion
In the late Enlightnement,
several patriots devised schemes to nationalize clothing by
implementing a civilian national uniform. If the nation is, as
Benedict Anderson suggests, "imagined as both inherently limited and
soveriegn," these plans reveal the social location of national
"sovereignty" nation quite clearly. Monarchical proposals for civilian
national uniforms in Germany and Sweden, assign sovereignty to the
monarch, who would implement his uniform down the social hierarchy.
Other patriots in Germany and France assigned sovereignty to a
"national brotherhood," which as Carole Pateman might have predicted
excludes women from sovereignty. The emergence of the modern fashion
system, under which clothes change every season, undermined attempts to
create a national uniform, so German and Hungarian patriots sought to
reject fashion. By the 1840s, however, Germans and Hungarian patriots
were seeking to nationalize not clothes, but the fashion system itself.
Since, however, fashion was seen as a woman's affair, women were
encouraged to play an active national role, albiet within limited
sartorial confines.