In 1978 The Polaroid Sonar Autofocus system is introduced.
The system first appeared on the SX-70 camera.
The SX-70 is one of the most sophisticated instant camera ever made.
The camera can be folded into a retangular shape of size smaller than today's VHS tape.
Although the SX-70 has some cult-status now, it is still cheap and easy to use, compared to 35 mm - SLR(single lens reflex) cameras.
Precious few people possess an inexhaustible supply of innovative ideas.
The good news is that those precious few probably don't know about SX-70 manipulation.
All you need is a Polaroid print and an irrepressible urge to do it harm.
The twist of a pen. The flash of a burnishing tool.
Manipulation tools can include a burnishing tool (available at art supply stores),
a sharpened wooden dowel, even pens and spoons. Dental tools also work well. Use the gentle bends,
not the sharp points as they can puncture or scratch the Mylar covering. A hair dryer can warm up a fully-developed
print that has been frozen to make further manipulation possible. Time Zero film and a SX-70 camera.
*Step 1 :
Expose the film and put it onto a hard flat surface.
Using the tools, apply different amounts of pressure as if you were painting over the picture.
The effect is different during the various phases of development.
*Step 2 :
Apply light pressure with blunt instruments before you see the image come up.
The effect is a general softening and blurring of the image.
*Step 3 :
Use a more pointed tool to outline areas and objects.
For the next several minutes, the image is slightly visible.
During this time, you can get white or black lines using different amounts of pressure.
You can also create new colors in the image by applying slightly heavier pressure and mixing the layers underneath.
*Step 4 :
The next five minutes are for stretching and blending the image.
Use a blunt or fine tip tool and lightly rub over the image areas you want to distort.
Be patient and try different amounts of pressure. Try circular motions or short strokes.
During the next 5 to 10 minutes, the image will begin to set. Use this time to blend the image areas.
You can freeze the print at any time after the image has fully developed to store and come back to later.
Just warm up the print with a hair dryer and manipulate.
*Optional Step :
Disassemble the developed film and peel off the Mylar from the backing.
This contains the image. Wash the white developer off the Mylar to create a translucent image
and overlay it onto another image. Use dyes and paints on the backside of the Mylar to intensify the effect.