Taller Handlebars
The following article is intended to let riders know that parts do exist for them if they do decide to change out their handlebars to a taller style. I had heard several reports from individuals changing out handle bars on Virago’s without requiring longer control cables and brake line. I attempted this modification with that logic in mind, only to find that the handle bars I wanted were right at the limits of my control cables and brake line.
I’m 5’6” and my stock ’99 1100 always had me feeling as if I was reaching for the bars. After a few hours of riding, my lower back was hurting. I felt like I wanted to sit more upright or even slightly angled toward the back of bike, but my arms weren’t long enough to sit in that riding position. Since I can’t stretch my arms, I decided to add some bars that had more pull-back than the stock handlebars. As it turns out, these bars also sit higher than the stock bars. I added the Highway Hawk FXWG style handlebars. These bars are approximately 9”high - 8”back - 27.5” across. As a reference, my stock bars were approximately 6.5”high - 4.5”back -30”across.
Parts needed:
Handlebars (7/8” diameter)
Grips (only if you have to cut off the stock ones)
Grip Glue
Brake fluid
Universal brake line, length depends on the bars you add
(my new bars took a 21" line but probably could have gone 1" shorter)10 mm banjo adapters w/ AN ends10 mm banjo bolt crush washersMotion Pro extra length (+6") control cablesNOTE: 12/27/06 - FOR SALE: I HAVE A COMPLETE SET OF THESE CABLES IN BRAIDED STAINLESS. THE CHOKE CABLE IS VINYL, IT DOESN'T COME IN STAINLESS. THEY ARE BRAND NEW AND IN THEIR WRAPPERS. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO BUY THESE FROM ME AS A COMPLETE SET, EMAIL ME AT PRP321@NETZERO.NET AND WE'LL MAKE A DEAL.
These cables have the correct inside cable lengths to operate your controls correctly, but are 6" longer than stock. You can check their listings here at Motion Pro. You will have to special order these from your local dealer, or you can make a one time special order direct from Motion Pro as I did. I have since found out that Yamaha of Cucamonga will order these for you as well. Their web site is YOC Racing, and these guys can get you just about anything you need for your Virago.Handlebar bar end weights (recommended)Summary steps:
Remove control cablesHANDLEBAR DISASSEMBLY
The first thing you need to do is remove the clutch, choke, throttle push, and throttle pull cables. GET YOUR SHOP MANUAL and always refer to it. Begin by removing the air filter pod and the left side pod cover. Also, remove the handlebar end caps at the base of each grip. Try to rock them out back and forth, rather than twisting them. Get a rag and place on the front fender to protect it from dropped tools and brake fluid. Remove the headlight from the bucket to gain access to the wiring harnesses. Locate and carefully feed slack out of the back of the headlight bucket for the rear brake light switch harness, the kill/starter harness, the clutch position harness, and the turn signal harness. You may want to get two small stools, tables, or a tray about as high as your waist and place in a handy location for the time being.
Remove the clutch cable by first removing the clutch mechanism cover down by the foot pegs. If you can get enough slack in the cable to dismount the cable at the lever, then do that. Otherwise, loosen the clutch mechanism to provide slack you need from that end. Dismount the clutch mechanism return spring. Don’t worry you will have to readjust the clutch for the new cable anyway. Remove the cable and place to the side.
To remove the choke cable, loosen the single bolt in the center of the choke housing that is thumb operated and remove that end of the cable from the housing. Next, loosen the two bolts that support the left side emissions pod equipment so that you can tilt it out of the way to get access to the pinch bolt holding choke cable. Loosen the pinch bolt and remove/slide the cable out. Place the cable to the side.
Before removing the two throttle cables, first note which cable is which so you don’t get them mixed up when installing the new cables. Both cables have a 90 degree bend in the metal part at the lever end of the cable. One is threaded on the end of the bend, the other is not. The one without the threads hooks up to the throttle valve mechanism in the location toward the back of the bike. Loosen the cable holding jam nuts on both cable jackets at the bracket above the throttle valve mechanism and remove that end of the cables from the bike. Next, loosen and open the throttle split housing on the handlebars so that you can get access to the throttle sleeve to remove the throttle cable ends from the throttle sleeve. Remove the cables and place to the side. You will need to unthread one of the cable jackets, while the other has a tab that holds it to the split housing. Get one of those tables or stools and place next to the bike under the right side of the handlebar. Next, slide the throttle sleeve off the handlebar and place to the side. Remove the throttle split housing from the handlebar and place on that stool or table I mentioned to prevent you from having to dangle it from the wiring while you continue to work.
Now is a good time to work on removing the grips. I tried for hours to remove my stock grips from the left side of the handlebar and from the throttle sleeve but could not get them off. If you do get the left one off, clean up the glued areas as best you can to get it ready for re-installation. Otherwise, get a blade and cut both off and you will have to mount new grips. Be careful not to cut into the throttle sleeve.
Next, drain the brake system by uncapping the master cylinder and pumping out the brake fluid by loosening the bleeder screw and squeezing the brake lever. Get a few rags handy. Get a tin can and a piece of clear hose to slip over the bleed screw. Pump out the brake fluid into the can through the hose from one bleed screw at a time. Once it is drained, disconnect the banjo bolt from the master cylinder. Throw away the two copper crush washers that come off. Disconnect the banjo bolt holding the lower end of the upper brake line to the distribution manifold. Do not disconnect the other banjo bolt in the manifold as it is not necessary since you only want to change the upper brake line. Throw away the three copper crush washers that come off, remove the upper brake line and place to the side, and place the banjo bolt loosely back into the manifold to hold the lower brake line while you continue to work. Place the rubber boot that covers the banjo bolt at the master cylinder on your new brake line now, so you don’t forget to mount it later like I did.
Now the brake lever should be free to come off the handlebar. Remove the two clamp bolts holding the brake lever/master cylinder to the handlebar and remove from the handlebar.
Get that other table or stool, and place on the left side of the bike under the handlebar. Remove the turn signal split housing by loosening the phillips head bolts enough to separate from the tab on the clutch lever assembly. Slide the housing off the bar and place on that table. Loosen the clamping bolt securing the clutch lever to the handlebar, and slide the clutch lever assembly off the handlebar and place on the table.
At this point there should be nothing on your handlebars and they are ready to come off. Remove the handlebar pinch bolts and cover, and remove the handlebars and place to the side.
INSTALLING NEW HANDLEBAR
Get your new cables and lube them before you mount them. Just lay them to the side for the time being.
Get your new handlebar and mount it to the bike. Adjust the tilt angle you want, center them up, and tighten the pinch bolts.
My new handlebars came with plastic end plugs in the end to protect the ends during shipping. I snipped the ends of the plug so that they would push up inside the end of the bars, and also cut a hole through the center of the plug. The hole was so I could get to the threads on the bar end weight, and the plugs hold the weights in place so they can not slide out the end of the handlebar. A little glue holds them in place. Shove the weights up into the ends of the handlebars to leave about 2" or so space in the end of the handlebar and glue them in place. You only need to keep them from sliding out the end of the handlebar.
Next, mount the clutch lever assembly and the brake lever assembly to the handlebar. Don’t tighten them yet, just slide them up as far as they will go and tighten enough to hold them there. Also, mount the turn signal split housing and the throttle split housing loosely and slide them up next to the lever assemblies.
Next mount the left grip. I got some of the Virago custom foam grips and replaced my stock grips because I had to cut them off. These are an enclosed type of grip with a metal cap on the end of the grip. Great for pushing on. Whatever grips you are mounting, just make sure that handlebar is lubed with something to allow you to push it up on the bar in one motion. Make sure you put the grip glue on the grips rather than on the handlebar. Adding it to the handlebar allows the grip to wipe the glue during the push and forms a glue glob up near and possibly on your turn signal housing. CHECK EVERYTHING ONE LAST TIME, BECAUSE ONCE THIS GRIP GOES ON YOU PROBABLY AIN’T GETTING IT BACK OFF. Mount the throttle grip to your throttle sleeve in the same fashion as the left side grip. You can probably mount this one at your work bench. Just put all of your fatboy weight on it and it will slide on nicely.
Position the turn signal housing and the clutch lever assembly and tighten down the bolts to hold them in place.
Mount the new choke cable and tighten the bolts holding the left side emissions pod equipment. Remount the left side pod cover.
Mount the new clutch cable at the lever end first. Make sure the lever adjustment screw is all the way in to give the most slack to the cable at the other end. Loosen the clutch mechanism if you need to get that end of the clutch cable mounted. Readjust the clutch mechanism, mount the clutch mechanism return spring, and bolt the clutch mechanism cover back on the bike. That’s it for the left side.
Position the brake lever assembly and tighten it down. Thread the throttle push cable into the split housing about three or four revolutions before you mount the cable to the bike. Next, feed the new throttle push and pull cables into the bracket on the frame and down toward the throttle mechanism. Mount the cable ends to the throttle mechanism, mount jacket ends to the bracket above the throttle mechanism, and tighten the jam nuts to hold them in place. Slide the throttle sleeve on, mount the cables to the sleeve, and tighten the throttle split housing. The handlebar under the throttle sleeve should be lubed with something to allow the sleeve to move freely over the bar. I like to use silicon lube. Just don’t use anything thick that might cause the throttle to stick. Check its operation regularly and keep it lubed during your normal PM procedures. Adjust the cable slack to achieve proper operation. At this time, check the operation of all your new control cables, and check your mirror positions etc. When you are satisfied with their operation and placement, remount the air filter pod. That’s it for the right side.
Get your new brake line and 5 NEW banjo crush washers. If you are using universal brake line, mount the banjo adapters to the ends of the line. Again, make sure the rubber boot you took off the old brake line is on the new brake line and aimed in the right direction for mounting. Remount both the lower brake line and the new upper brake line to the distribution manifold first. Use three NEW crush washers and torque the banjo bolt to the proper torque level. Do not over tighten as you may cause one of the washer to leak, and try to tighten the banjo bolt in one try rather than several. Mount the other end of the upper brake line to the master cylinder using two NEW crush washers and tightening to the proper torque level.
Refill and bleed the brakes. Patience is key here. Take your time and do it right. Two people are good. One to pump the lever, the other to loosen and tighten the bleed screw. Use your clear tubing and a glass jar. Use lots of rags and watch out for fluid spitting out of the master cylinder while pumping. Once it is filled and bled, check the lever operation. It should feel good and solid. Make sure there are no leaks and slide the rubber boot up and over the banjo bolt at the master cylinder. That’s it your done go take a break for an hour; eat some lunch or something.
One last time think back through all you procedures and check that all bolts are tight and everything is in place. Check all your control cables for proper operation and check the front brakes. Continue to check over everything for the next few days or so just to make sure.
Now, take her out for a test ride. TAKE IT EASY FOR A WHILE, THE NEW BARS WILL MAKE IT FEEL LIKE A WHOLE NEW RIDE.
Have fun and ride safe. Some pics of my ride can be seen at '99 XV1100 pics.