Here is a list of parts and the prices I paid:
1. Calipers - from 1980- 1985 Cadillac Seville/Eldorado or Olds Toronado/Riv. Find cores in junkyard (I paid $10 for both) and get all the misc hardware (e-brake lever, mounting bracket, and spring, brake line fittings, caliper aligning bolts, etc). By getting the cores from the junkyard, you will save $80 a piece core charge at Autozone!!! Rebuilt calipers at Autozone were $39 a piece.
2. Rotors and bushing- from 1984 - 1990 Lincoln Mark VII rears . I was able to find a very good set from a 1990 Mark VII at the "good/expensive" (you know the non pull your own parts type) for $50 for both. New ones at Autozone are around $67 a piece. May be worthwhile to get new ones, but the ones I found look to have never been turned. Very possible since the fronts handle the majority of the braking. The bushing is needed to take up the slack for centering purposes of the rotor. The centering hole is too big for my 28 spline axles. So I had bushings made to slide over my axle hub and take up the space. Price - Free at work, but shouldnt be very expensive at local machine shop.
3. Brackets and spacers - from SteelTech Solutions (bought over ebay for $95 - includes shipping). Quality brackets for big and small bearing 9 inch housings. Only problem on my application was that I needed to remove caliper and tilt up when bleeding to get bleeder at top of piston cavity. The spacers are to take up the space between the axle housing flange and the retainer plate (the drum brake backing plate used to go here). I wasnt sure if spacers were needed or not, but I made them anyway.
4. Pads - $10 at Autozone
5. Master Cylinder - You can go many differents ways here. Somes say a stock disc/drum MC will work fine, some say you need to go with a disc/disc MC to handle the increased volume needed (i.e. bigger bore diameter MC). Mine was stock disc/drum was leaking, so I needed something different. What I found (while junkyarding for calipers) was a 95 Crown Vic police car with 4WDB-ABS and a master cylinder (still full of fluid) that fits my booster perfectly and fits (just barely) in the small space allowed for the MC before it hits the shock tower (you will need to check how much space you have on your application). This MC has a big bore (1.25") and the brake lines exit on the engine side. Not a big deal to me. I also took the lines from the police car (metric fittings on MC) and cut and flared them to fit my stock lines.
Price $5.
6. Misc - Brake lines, brake fluid, and adjustable proportioning valve ( I already had one - ~$40).
Price $15.
Total price for parts (my project) = $265
Calipers - rebuilt units $80, junkyard cores $10.
Rotors - used $50.
Brackets - $95.
Master Cylinder plus lines - junkyard $5
Pads - new $10.
Misc - $15
I will try to recall this conversion in a step by step process.
Step 1 :
Remove drum brake setup and axles with rearend in car. You will have more leverage for removing parts with rearend still bolted in car. One trick I read in a mustang magazine for taking the ebrake cable out of the drum brake backing plate was to use a small hose clamp around the push pins of the ebrake mount. This works well after some trial and error. It is important that you do not break too many of the push pins, because the same mounting scheme is used on the new disk brake setup. The axles may take some pounding to get them out.