The Parthenon in the early morning light. Athens, Greece.
It’s tough to think of Athens without thinking of the Acropolis (much less think of visiting Athens without visiting the Acropolis). The white marble buildings on the top of this rock have been held up as some of the highest expressions of man’s artistic and architectural creativity. Given the importance that these buildings have in the role of human civilization, one might expect visiting the site to be a tremendous emotional experience. Actually, the experience is much like the Acropolis itself: a little rough around the edges, but still impressive.
We arrived at the Acropolis ticket office just after it opened. We were pretty sure that the site was open, but the staff was acting like it wasn’t open yet. All of the windows were closed, and the staff was at the back of the booth talking amongst themselves. Then, another couple of tourists arrived and marched right up to the ticket window. One of the staff members then opened his window to sell them a ticket. Right after they departed, the staff member closed his window. We now knew the game that was being played. We marched up to the window. The staff member opened his window and sold us two tickets. We felt a small sense of accomplishment having mastered the art of purchasing tickets at a Greek attraction.
Our reward for deducing the ticket purchasing procedures was a hike up the slope of the Acropolis. The Greeks do a good job of making it seem like a peaceful stroll when one first starts on the trail. The lower part of the trail winds its way through a grove of olive trees, which lend an air of walking through a forest. However, it doesn’t take long before the arid reality of Greece takes over, and one is left walking on a steep, dusty trail. The only benefit on this part of the hike is that one does get some tremendous views of the Odeon of Herod Agrippa and the Odeon of Dionysis, which are built against the south slopes of the Acropolis.
It was about a five-minute hike from the ticket booth to the top of the Acropolis. The last part of the climb was up a flight of stairs to the Prophylaia. I’ve already mentioned our encounter with a guide at the base of the Prophyla on the February 6th page. That was our only such confrontation at the Acropolis. However, I’m sure that someone going during either later in the day or during the tourist season would be accosted by many other guides. It’s something to keep in mind as one prepares to tour the Acropolis.
The Prophylaia isn’t much to look at. While there is some hint of its past glory, it is the most damaged of the four main remaining monuments on the Acropolis. However, the Prophylaia does still serve its original function. There is a point when one is just about to finish walking through it that one can imagine the star covered ceiling and the grandeurs that exist just beyond its doors.
It is breathtaking to view the Parthenon just after departing the Prophylaia. Yes, it is a shell of its former self. But, it is still very clear that it is an incredibly beautiful and powerful building. While we weren’t able to walk through it (all of the Acropolis’ buildings are roped off with the exception of the main passage through the Prophylaia), we could still feel the sense of awe that must’ve been felt by the pilgrims that visited this holy sight. We could also see some of the architectural adjustments for which the Parthenon is famous, like the pillars being fatter at the bottom than at the top to maintain perspective. While it was exciting to finally be able to see some of these architectural innovations, it was also sad to see this building. Standing up close to it only heightens the impression of how much has been lost. The slots that held the metropes are mostly empty, as are the scalia at the entrances. Of course, the frieze is entirely gone as are a few columns. Given the parts that are missing, one can barely imagine the complete beauty of this structure. Still, the sense of history and the artistic embellishments that remain are enough to put a visitor in a state of awe.
I actually was somewhat more impressed with the Erechtheion than I was with the Parthenon. I suppose that some of my impression stemmed from my preference of the Ionic style over the Doric style. However, one can’t look at the Caryatids and not be impressed with the grace, innovation, and style of the building. I spent about twenty minutes walking around the building and admiring its features. However, I did wonder why it, along with the other building on the Acropolis, hasn’t been entirely rebuild. After all, the Caryatids and other portions of the building are recreations. So, why not rebuild the entire structure so that people could get a true appreciation for the genius of the Ancient Athenians?
We walked to the east end of the Acropolis where the Acropolis Museum resides. There is no extra charge to enter the museum. I was afraid that there wouldn’t be much here after the countless raids on the Acropolis’ treasures. Fortunately, there is still a lot here to see. The exhibits are laid out in the chronological order that the Acropolis was developed. Thus, the viewer is given a real sense of the evolution of Greek art. The high point of the tour is at the end, when one gets to see the actual Caryatids. I actually thought that it might be better to tour the museum first before examining the buildings. However, the Acropolis Museum is something that must be toured regardless of when that tour fits on the itinerary.
After leaving the Acropolis Museum, we walked along the south side of the Parthenon. By now, there were several tour groups on the Acropolis being herded around by guides. The crowds were starting to detract from the atmosphere of the site. So, we proceeded around the Parthenon, walked back through the Prophyla (but not before stopping and watching an archeologist perform some restoration work) and headed down the hill.
We both felt that visiting the Acropolis was something tremendously special. I think part of the reason for our feelings came from the time that we visited. We arrived finished our climb to the Acropolis’ summit early in the morning. The sun was just barely over the crest of the Parthenon, thus giving it a radiant glow. There were about 20 other tourist on the hill at the time, which were augmented by about 75 archeologists and construction workers. The lack of people and the early morning sunlight made the site feel more mystic than is probably usual. Still, one shouldn't wait for a lack of crowds before visiting the Acropolis. It is definitely one attraction that lives up to the hype.
The Acropolis is open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day throughout the year. It costs 2,000 drachma to visit the site and the museum.
The east side of the Prophyla
The Caryatids on the Erechtheion.
The real Caryatids in the Acropolis Museum
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