The Ancient Agora. Athens, Greece
Ancient Agora
It might seem like something of a letdown to visit the Ancient Agora after visiting the Acropolis. One’s impressions aren’t dispelled after seeing all the rubble in the area. But, with a good map, a decent imagination, and a strong sense of history, the Agora can be as interesting as the Acropolis.
We descended from the heights of the Acropolis and Areopagus Hill to the small valley where the Ancient Agora sits. It was still rather early in the morning (about 9:30 a.m.), so there weren’t many tourists about. We approached the south entrance ticket office to purchase our tickets. As we continued to descend, I realized that we were walking along the famous Panathenaic Way. I started feeling awed that I was walking on the same path that Socrates, Plato, and St. Paul had walked. I love it when I get the opportunity to intersect with history. However, it is not usually as intense as that which I felt in Athens. I suppose that being part of a few thousand years of history will do that to a person.
We were ready to use the ticket buying knowledge that we had obtained at the Acropolis, but it turned out that we didn’t need it. There was no one else in line, and the ticket agent seemed to be watching for new customers. We quickly purchased our tickets and entered the site. Just a few feet from the south entrance is the most modern building in the Agora: The Church of the Holy Apostles. The church, which was built in the Eleventh Century, was deconsecrated about 50 years ago. At the same time, archeologists restored the building to its original grandeur. We were the only people in the church when we visited. The absence of other tourists allowed me to lie on the floor to get a picture of the magnificent fresco of Christ in the center dome. We also took time to look at the other icon-like frescos decorating the wall. I particularly enjoyed the picture of the angel with the knowing smile just inside the church’s main door. All in all, the building was a wonderful place to get a basic understanding of a Byzantine church’s art and architecture.
We walked out of the church and headed west to the second of the three standing structures in the Agora: the Temple of Hephaistos. Along the way, we walked past a whole lot of rubble. We could make out the outline of the foundations of several buildings. But, even these were partially covered over by the new weeds that were sprouting up on the site in anticipation of Spring. I’m sure that some would just pass right through all this rubble to the Temple. But, there’s so much history here that it is irresistible to take a moment to figure out what one’s seeing. We were fortunate to have Lonely Planet, which does a good job of making some sense of the stone piles. However, the Agora’s administrators could assist the process by placing better descriptions at each of the ruins. Even with the inadequate signage, it is still a thrill to be standing in front of the New Bouleuterion, where Pericles argued for his plans. Realizations like this are a good reason why one should have a detailed map of the area.
There is no ambiguity when viewing the Temple of Hephaistos. It’s one of the few temples (if not the only temple) which has survived the centuries intact. Even the frieze has survived in its original position in a remarkably complete condition. As a result, it is a favorite spot for tourists and archeologists to view. As with virtually all of the ruins, visitors are not allowed inside the temple. However, one can see enough from the outside to get a good understanding of the form and function of a Greek temple.
We walked down the small hill where the Temple of Hephaistos sits and proceeded east to the last intact structure in the Agora: the Stoa of Attalos. The Stoa was rebuilt by archeologist in the 1950s to serve as the Agora’s museum. However, its presence just raises the question of why the rest of the Agora isn’t rebuilt. The question really becomes pressing when one sees the ruins of the Odeon of Agrippa. The Odeon’s ruins are highlighted by four large statues of giants and tritons at (what use to be) the entrance to the building. While it is true that this is a Roman building and not a Greek one, its reconstructed presence on the site would give the tourist a better understanding of the magnificent structures that once populated the Agora. I suppose that money is the main reason why these structures are not reconstructed. Still, it would be nice if reconstruction were made a priority.
The value of reconstruction is seen at the Stoa of Attalos. This massive building was Classic Athens’ version of a shopping mall. Today, it houses various artifacts found in the Agora. One cannot wander through its rooms and not feel the presence of the Ancient Greeks. I know that the exhibits helped (which are interesting, but are nothing that can’t be seen in the various other museums around Greece). But, the presence of the building just lent a reality to the site that the ruins couldn’t convey.
We spent about a thirty minutes looking at the exhibits in the Stoa. We then made our way through the lovely gardens just outside the Stoa to the north exit. What was amazing was how quickly one goes from the relative quiet of the Agora to the noise and congestion that is modern Athens. It was then that we realized what a special place that the Agora is. While that preciousness could only be enhanced by further reconstruction of the site, it is worth visiting now in order to bask in the presence of history and to obtain a better understanding of the lifestyle of the Ancient Greeks.
The Agora is open from 8:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. on Tuesday through Sunday. The site is closed on Mondays. The no-discount cost to enter is 1,200 drachma. However, there are several reduced admission prices and several no admission price days throughout the year (including every Sunday from November through March). Please check the site’s web page for details on these reduced fares.
The Ancient Agora. A Dianne Lima picture.
The Temple of Hephaistos.
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