St. Francis Cathedral

The St. Francis Cathedral is the anchor for Catholics in the Santa Fe Archdiocese. It is also an “anchor” attraction in downtown Santa Fe. Given this dual importance, I was expecting a structure that was memorably distinctive. While modern adjustments diminished some of the Cathedral’s character for me, I still found it to be a place worth visiting.

The first characteristic that strikes a visitor about St. Francis Cathedral is the building’s distinctively “non-Southwest” appearance. Much like the Loretto Chapel, the Cathedral looks like it would be more at home in some European town instead of in New Mexico. The exterior is designed in a Romanesque style that invokes some of France’s best churches. The only “flaw” is that the two bell towers astride the front door are unfinished. A guide told us that there is a crack along the façade which has made the bell towers unstable for further construction (we never saw the crack, but we trust that it’s there). The guide told us that completing the bell towers would require reconstructing the façade. He said that a wealthy Santa Fe resident had agreed to pay for this reconstruction, so future visitors might yet see a completed cathedral.

The reasons why this Romanesque refugee sits in downtown Santa Fe begin and end with Archbishop Jean Lamy. Lamy, whose statue sits just outside the Cathedral’s front door, ruled the diocese with an iron hand during the late 1800s. It was his wish that a cathedral be built in a style similar to those he had visited during his boyhood in France. Thus, his legacy is the cathedral that stands today.

The sense of architectural displacement continues into the interior. In fact, the first sight greeting a visitor after they enter the Cathedral on the south wing is a rather modern side chapel. The chapel is sealed off behind a wall of glass. But, its presence is indicative of the modifications that are on display throughout the cathedral. Some of these modifications enhance the basic Romanesque quality of the building. Others detract from it. The main item that enhances the structure is the wonderful reredos standing behind the main altar. The reredos show various saints that have a connection to the Santa Fe Archdiocese. They are painted in a style that is evocative of the art found in many Indian pueblos throughout New Mexico, thus providing a link between the Church’s history and the native culture. It’s a great addition to the church. A not so smart addition is the inclusion of an immersion baptism font in the cathedral’s center. This structure is simply too big and too intrusive to be an effective addition. It blocks the center aisle in a way that prevents people from easily going from the front door to the altar. The result is to break up the flow of the building. I realize that this font is a relatively new addition, but it should be torn out.

The other part of the Cathedral which enhances the sense of architectural displacement is the north transept. This wing, which is the oldest part of the building, is a relic of the original cathedral built in 1717. Today, it houses La Conquistadora, a statue of the Virgin Mary which is credited with being the reason behind the Spanish reconquest of Santa Fe in 1692. The statue actually appears to be rather small, mainly because it sits on a rather high altar. Still, if the intent is to convey the statue’s perceived power, the setting works.

We ended up spending quite a bit of time at the Cathedral. While it wasn’t the most interesting attraction in Santa Fe, it turned out to be a wonderful place in which to relax and contemplate. The stunning stained glass, the soaring ceiling, and the quiet atmosphere lent itself to allowing a person to collect their thoughts. The St. Francis Cathedral isn’t as spectacular as the Loretto Chapel. But, it is a wonderful alternative to the museums and galleries that populate Santa Fe.

The Cathedral is open from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m every day. There is no charge to enter the cathedral, although donations are accepted.

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