Tommy the Tourist Downunder

Wednesday 20th June I left Poole on the National Express Heathrow shuttle the first leg of my journey to Australia.
The plan is to buy a motorcycle in Sydney and head North as far as I can.

Friday 22nd I was met at Sydney airport by my old workmate Adrian, and after a quick cleanup it was lime for some breakfast and sightseeing. I was under orders to stay awake till evening then just crash out. By 4.30 in the afternoon my legs were turning to jelly and strange things were happening in my head, and strong coffee only helped a little, so I headed back to the apartment. I held out to about 6 and the next I remember was waking up at 10.30 next morning, when Adrian called round and we went off to check out some more sights and maybe buy a bike.

The first dealer had nothing sensible, more of a breakers really, the next was Sydney City Motorcycles, where after much debate a I test rode a Suzuki GS500, registered this February and still under warranty. In Australia third party insurance comes with road tax, so the bike had 8 months tax and insurance; it also had a large rack for carrying my backpack. On the downside, it had been dropped and had a broken mirror and a couple of scratches, the rev counter didn’t work and the back tyre was worn out. The rev counter was covered by warranty but the dealers refused to replace the mirror and tyre. I explained about using it for touring and they said they would be happy to buy the bike back from me though I would probably lose 20%, but they wouldn’t put it in writing. (On my return they tried to stitch me up -so stay tuned for that part)

I paid Ł2,261 including the cost of a new tyre - they wouldn’t fit a new mirror but would repair the rev counter. Of course on picking up the bike on Tuesday evening the new tyre was fitted but not the rev counter. It would take at least a week to order a new cable, so I had to take the bike as it was.

Next morning before leaving Sydney I had to register the bike at the RTA office, but as usual nothing is ever quite as simple as it seems. After queuing for 20 minutes Sam, who was dealing with me, said I couldn’t register the bike as I was not an Australian resident. I explained what I was planning to do and he agreed that if I got proof of Adrian’s address and that I’d been staying there, he would register the bike for me. So a quick call to my mate to find out where he’s working, and a dash across town, and after an hour and a half I’m back at the RTA office and true to his word Sam registers the bike.

Now I’m on my way! Thanks Sam.

Stay tuned - and keep your knees in the breeze

Tom

Tommy the Tourist Downunder Part 2

After the hassle of registering the Suzuki GS500 I bought in Sydney for the duration my holiday it was nice to be on the road at last. I headed north along the freeway to Newcastle picking up the Pacific Highway, my main route to Brisbane. The roads are very good although mostly single carriageway they regularly have an extra overtaking lane, which comes in very handy when huge trucks come steaming up behind you. Those bullbars look very intimidating in your rear view mirrors!
The forests and scenery are very different to Europe no green fields and pasture and all the trees look the same. Still I’m not disappointed, it’s what I’ve come to see, and you think about what the early settlers must have had to get used to.

I had prebooked accommodation at a youth hostel at Shoal Bay in Port Stephens. After leaving Newcastle I soon pick up signs for my destination, and the road and scenery now change dramatically as I head around Port Stephens, through tall trees and very fiat ground. Signs warning of kangaroos are a regular sight — I had been warned not to ride at night through these sort of areas as there is a very high risk of hitting large critters!

I was glad to be checked into dormitory by dusk, and watch the sunset on the beach 20ft from the youth hostel. It cost 18 dollars for the night, Ł6.50 in our money, not bad. I was the only one in the male dormitory that night, and there were two young ladies in the other one. One was from America and the other one used to live in Poole! As I walked to the pub the roosting parrots were squawking in the trees along the beach. In one particular tree white parrots were all sat in pairs just like someone climbed a ladder and placed them there.

Next day I boarded a boat for some whale-watching. But I won’t bore you with all about how many whales I saw or how all these dolphins were leaping out the water all around the boat. In the afternoon I took the bike and called in at some of the quiet little coves and beaches. I know this is starting to sound a bit like David Attenborough but I saw my first pelicans, and as the sun was setting on Soldier Point a group of dolphins graced me with their presence a few hundred feet from the beach.

Back at the hostel I have company, Stephen who is Irish, and Claire and Emily who are English nurses working in Sydney. Stephen is having a short break on his Yamaha and the girls have come up to Shoal Bay to meet him for the night. So its off to the pub for the evening. It turns out that Emily’s mum lives in Weymouth and Emily spent Millenium night in the Lord Nelson on Poole Quay!

Oh what a small world!

Stay tuned - and Keep your knees in the breeze folks,
Tom

Tommy the Tourist Downunder Part 3

I said "good-bye to my friends from the night before and headed on towards my next nights stop at Port Macquarie. But first it's a detour through the Great Lakes region which stretch from Port Stephens to the brilliant beaches of Forster and Tuncurry. Beautiful white sand beaches around the shores of Wallis Lake were the perfect spot for a picnic break and the sunshine and blue skies just added to the magic.

Early afternoon 1 checked into the youth hostel at Port Macquarie and was soon off to see the sights. I arrived just in time to see Koalas being hand fed at a rescue centre. To see these timid creatures close up and not asleep was a real treat.

Back at the hostel it was time to watch the British Lions beat the Australians in the first test, on the TV. Then it's down town for a few beers. I met a man who's family were deported here. What a laugh he turned out to be.

Next day I took a scenic route through the Nat Head National Park. I stopped at the Historic Trail Bay Gaol and museum. An absolutely stunning place to build a prison . Then off to Coffs Harbour for my overnight stop. l walked up to Muttonbird island, named after the curious bird which nest here. The island is covered in thick undergrowth, where these birds nest out of sight of predators. The birds feed their chicks so that they are bloated and overweight and then fly off and leave them. When the chicks reserves of fat runs out they shed their fluffy feathers leave the cover of the undergrowth and somehow manage to fly off to where ever mutton birds go.

It was while watching two whales from the view point I had a conversation with a gentleman from New Zealand. He recalled stories of hunting whales for meat where he lived. Pilots would guide local fishermen to the pods of whales, where the slaughter took place. The dead creatures would be brought back to port where a free for all took place. Often people would fall into the water whilst cutting lumps of flesh only to be attacked and killed by waiting sharks. So much flesh was about there was surplus and even the chickens had their fill.

Do you know he thought that they were doing no wrong in killing these beautiful creatures. He told the stories with glee and listened in disgust. But on our walk back to Coffs Harbour I at least had a chance to tell him how I felt.

Stay tuned - and Keep your knees in the breeze
Tom

Tommy the Tourist Downunder Part 4

What joy. On route to Lennox Head I spotted my first wild kangaroo grazing. Up to then I had only driven past road kill which might have been a roo at sometime.

I was still travelling on the Pacific highway heading north,and could feel the sun getting warmer , I knew from the tv the night before that it was cold and wet in Sydney. It seemed I was going in the rightdirection for fine weather.

The youth hostel at Lennox Head is a mere 100 yards from the beach and again only 18 dollars a night. I planned to stay two nights as I know there was plenty to see and do in the area.
I was soon off to watch the surfers on seven mile beach, if you have ever seen extreme sports on the TV and been amazed at the way these guys use the surf let me tell you its for real. This is the Aussy you have to see.
After an early morning swim in the sea, next day I headed inland to the Whion Whion state forest, the roads where very bumpy and at times there was no tarmac, just rolled gravel. My Susuki GS 500 handles the route well, after riding her for six days I was well pleased with the way she had performed. I made my way through plantations of oranges. bananas, and avocado, the air was very humid being subtropical. Finally I parked up in the rain forest and made my way on foot to the Minyon Falls, it was a bit spooky because the forest was so quiet. I made sure I did not put hands on any branches that may have hidden spiders or snakes. The silence would be broken by a loud shnek or bird call, but try as I might I never saw what made the noise.
This whole area is famous for its happy communities And Nimbin is famous for its connection with drugs, so the town has a museum dedicated to the whole subject., but probably the most well known place is the coastal town of Byron Bay which I checked out on the way back to the youth hostel. The town is very vibrant with over one hundred cafes and restaurants, galleries and craft shops, clubs and entertainment and of coarse more space cadets than the star ship enterprise. As much as I liked the town I felt strangely uncomfortable about being approached to buy drugs.

Back at Lennox Head that night I was down the pub watching the footy, it was the big match, New South Wales verses Queensland. Beer was one dollar a schooner up to the first score. Another good night under my belt.

As 2001 comes to an end I wish you all the best for next year. Thanks for supporting the club and for the feedback from my writing, it makes it so worth while. As for next year, where shall I go? And who shall I meet?, one thing is sure I will see the sun set some place I have never seen before.

Stay tuned and keep your knees in the breeze.
Tom.