To start off, your face should be warm, moist, and clean. Your best bet is to shave at the end of your shower. You might want a fog-free mirror for this. They're relatively inexpensive, and available at just about any drug store or Target type store. Do all of your shower activities, and lastly wash your face throroughly. Rinse well, apply your favorite shaving cream, and away you go. The next best option is to shave immediately out of the shower. If nothing else, you should definitely wash your face well with plently of hot water, and make sure you rinse the soap off well. The hot water and washing makes your beard stand up better, and allows your razor to glide more smoothly over your skin, resulting in a closer and less irritating shave. Whatever you do, do NOT shave dry. Unless you're into mindless excruciating pain that is.
Now, what to shave with? Let's start with shaving cream. There are tons of options out there. Most of the cheap cans of shaving cream are the same thing: soap suds and propellant. In the same vein there is the old fashioned shaving soap and brush method. You might as well lather up with a bar of Ivory soap. Which, incidentally, doesn't do bad in a pinch, but I wouldn't do it long-term. Soap can dry your face, leaving it irritated and itchy. Your best inexpensive option is a shave gel with some kind of moisturizing agent in it. There are plenty to choose from. Just pick one you think you like. You might have to go through some trial and error to find one that gives you the closest possible shave with the least irritation. There are also some higher priced gels, lotions, and shaving oils out there, but for those of us on a more limited income, your basic Edge or Gilette gel works just dandy. And, contrary to what they show in the commercials, you really don't need a fistful of gel to properly coat your beard. A small glob, roughly the diameter of a nickel and 1/4 inch high, will completely cover your beard and provide more than adequate protection and lubrication for your razor.
Ah, razors. Like shaving creams, there are enough to choose from to make a man go crosseyed. They're all basically the same: a handle and a blade (or 2, or 3, or 4). Your basic single-blade disposable razor, which can usually be purchased in packs of up to a dozen for next to nothing, will do just fine if your budget is really tight. Theoretically, the more blades a razor has, the closer it will shave with fewer strokes, thus lessening the amount of irritation to your face. In practice, I find this to be true, my father doesn't. I guess it all depends on your face. I prefer the new Schick Quattro razor. It has 4 blades, and I find that I'm able to get as close a shave as with my previous Mach III razor, in less time and with less effort. Those razors can be kind of pricey though. My Quattro was $10, and refills are $9 for a pack of 4 heads. Which brings up an important point: when to change your razor. Some people will say after a few shaves, some will say after a week. There is really no concrete timeline for changing your razor. The best guideline is to change it when you feel it beginning to tug on your beard as you shave. You'll know the sensation when you feel it. Be careful though. A brand new razor doesn't require as much pressure to shave with as an older one, and you can nick yourself easier.
Now, to the actual shaving. This can seem both mindlessly simple and terrifyingly confusing. So, I'll break it down into general areas.
Sideburns: Shave downward, with the grain (in the same direction as the hair grows).
Cheeks: Same as sideburns, shave with the grain.
Under the chin and jawline: This one's more of a personal preference. I prefer to shave against the grain here. Some guys prefer to shave with the grain. It's up to you. Be careful though. The jawline is a major nick zone.
Chin and lower lip: Pull your lower lip over your teeth, and jut your jaw forward in a bulldog like manner. This will help pull the skin taut, and avoid hairs hiding in little nooks and crannies. Shave in the direction of the hair growth.
Corners of the mouth: Form your mouth into a small "O" and pull your lips to the side opposite of the one you're shaving. Shave in the direction of the hair growth.
Upper lip: Pull your upper lip down over your teeth. Some say to shave against the grain, but I find that every time I try that, I end up with a razor nick at the base of my septum. Totally up to you here.
Make sure you rinse your razor often. This will help prevent the blade(s) from getting clogged and pulling at your beard. Some people say the only way to do this properly is with running water, some just use the old sinkful of water. Whichever method you use, make sure you rinse your razor every few strokes.
Okay, you're done raking the bristles. You should now rinse the leftover suds off your face, and do it well. Otherwise the soap scum can clog your pores, which can make your face break out. Some people prefer to use a wet washcloth, but I prefer to rinse with clear running water. Just scoop some water up in your hand, and splash it over your face, rubbing it to make sure you've removed all the shaving cream. This is the point when you'll most likely notice any nicks or cuts. Whatever you do, do NOT use small bits of toilet paper to stop the bleeding! Sure, it'll stop the bleeding. However, you have to yank off the paper eventually, and with the paper go the scabs. Invest a whopping dollar, and pick up a styptic pencil or two. They're available almost everywhere. Simply moisten the tip under running water, and apply it gently to the cut. It will sting a little, but it will stop the bleeding with none of that embarrassing white paper and re-bleeding nonsense. They're also handy for small cuts and abrasions.
You are now clean shaven, and you've stopped bleeding (if you were bleeding). To aftershave or not to aftershave? I prefer to aftershave. It soothes any irritation you might have suffered from shaving, and makes your face feel even smoother. There are three main types of aftershaves available, gels, lotions, and splashes. As a general rule, try to avoid the splashes. They're usually alcohol based, and along with stinging like a bitch, alcohol can and will dry your skin, making it itchier than it would have been had you done nothing. Most aftershave gels and lotions contain moisturizing agents, which soothes your face. In addition, you can find fragrance-free ones, which is great for guys who have an allergy to smelly stuff. Aftershave should only be applied to the areas that have been shaven. There are products available for men for all over the face use, which are designed to cleanse the skin, as well as moisturizing it to remove that sandpapery texture.
So, there you have it. Any questions or comments? Feel free to email me!