Introduction to the Town of Pushkin

In July and August of 2005 I had an extraordinary opportunity for an extended stay at Tsarskoe Selo, the town currently known as Pushkin. Although I wasn’t there a tremendously long time, the nature of my visit allowed me a very close glimpse of what it would be like to live and work in Pushkin, as opposed to coming there as a tourist. Pushkin is a relatively small town, which is currently expanding. Lots of construction and reconstruction can be seen, and Pushkin real estate prices are rapidly escalating. My rented flat was on Moskovskaya and Tzerkovnaya Streets, just a few short blocks away from the gates of the Alexander Palace, and down the street from Gostiny Dvor. German POWs reportedly built this apartment house (below), as well as many other buildings in town, after World War II.

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Mine was a three-story construction with a storefront and no elevator - more or less standard to what many Pushkinites occupy. The residential entrances are in the back (above); the hallways in many buildings like this one leave a lot to be desired, often being unkempt and unlit. Image Hosted by ImageShack.us

What I found the most striking (until I got used to it) was a complete lack of landscaping around the buildings - grass and weeds are just allowed to grow uncontrolled, while the sidewalks are extremely bad: if you don’t constantly watch where you are walking, you will undoubtedly fall into one of numerous large potholes. Gostiny Dvor in Pushkin is a smaller version of its namesake in St Petersburg. It is the Russian version of a strip mall, with individual stores occupying separate sections of the building, and an outdoor farmer’s market inside the large courtyard. At first glance, Gostiny Dvor looked sort of abandoned - with a strong need of renovation, but turned out that even the shabbiest storefronts were occupied and open for business. I had come across this over and over in Russia - cosmetically presentable storefronts are evidently optional and lack of renovation doesn’t get in a way of running a business (or living in a private residence).

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Above: Gostiny Dvor at the turn of the 20th century and Gostiny Dvor today.

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Above: Entrance to the Tsarskoe Selo Market (in the courtyard of Gostiny Dvor), and inside the market. The market is open 7 days a week.In the Tsarskoe Selo Market one can buy everything from watermelons to shoes, this was where I did most of the shopping during my stay in Pushkin.

Although Russians love animals and many are pet owners, numerous stray cats and dogs roam the streets. Sadly, the general consensus seems to be that only purebred animals should be kept as pets - the rest stay in the streets. Neutering and spaying is not common.

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Above: one of many stray cats that live around Gostiny Dvor and feed off the refuse from the market, and a stray dog.

The location I lived in was within walking distance of most historical places of interest and I did a lot of walking around town. Although by the end of July the “white nights” season is virtually over, summer days in St Petersburg and its suburbs are still very long – it doesn’t start getting dark until after 11:00pm. One of the first places I visited was the Museum of Tsarskoe Selo, located on Leontevskaya Street.

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A plaque at the entrance of the museum reads: “Tsarskoe Selo: Founded in 1710, officially established as a town in 1808. From 1918, known as Detskoe Selo [Children’s Village]. In 1937, at the 100th anniversary of the death of the great poet, it was renamed the Town of Pushkin”.

Although the Museum of Tsarskoe Selo is not the most well known of Pushkin’s museums, it offers many gems for those who wish to learn more about the town’s history. The staff is extremely knowledgeable and helpful, and can provide answers to many questions about their town.

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Above: These ladies, both Pushkin natives, work as guides (as well as guards) at the museum to supplement their pensions.

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