After the (de-) Basses Islands we head back towards civilization (and fresh vegetables) at Hobuk Bay on Pananumara, stopping over at Boboeina for the night, where Hans spends the afternoon spear fishing while I lie around in the sun, reading magazines and refusing to feel guilty. Hans comes back after about four and a half hours with 2 crayfish, a coral trout and a cheesy grin.

We end up staying at Hobuk Bay for nearly a week, sheltering from a strong wind warning which turns the sea outside the lagoon into a washing machine. Several other yachts have the same idea, so we have plenty of invitations for afternoon drinks. We trade with the local villagers for fresh fruit and vegetables - money is virtually useless out on the islands as there’s nowhere to spend it. Instead we trade for everything - people mainly want clothes and t-shirts are always popular,aswell as fishing hooks and line, batteries, exercise books and biros, magazines, soccer boots and soap, although the first thing everyone asks for is tobacco. But children will always paddle out with a canoe full of sweet drinking coconuts in return for a handful of lollies and balloons and a chance to stare at such a big canoe....

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