The National Forest of Vikos - Aoos is 126.000 sq.km. and was founded in 1973. The Vikos gorge is more than 35 km long and its depth ranges from 600 to 1.200 meters. Because of the large difference in altitude between its lowest and highest points it is a very complex ecosystem with highly varied flora and fauna. They have been counted 50 different kinds of trees, thousands of herbs, 7 kinds of fish, 19 kinds of amphibians and 110 kinds of birds. And the counting goes on. Because of its remote mountainous terrain the area is the habitat of rare animal species such as the brown bear, the wild goat (Capra ibex and Rupricapra rupricapra), the wild boar, the jackal, the wolf, the deer, the otter (Lutra lutra), the lynx (Lynx lynx) and many more.

               One of the most common starting points for crossing the forest is the village of Monodendri, one of the picturesque Zagorochoria. In 30' there is the stream bed of Vikos river and in 3 30' the chapel of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) and a well with water. Less than 2 hours away there are the springs of Voidomatis river, the only one in Europe with potable water. This is where the road splits. Northeast leads to the Papigo villages, a twin village which is the mental heart of the Zagorochoria area. West there is the Vikos village with a beautiful view to the Vikos gorge.

               Going to Papingo from Aristi village you will find the bridge of Voidomatis river, one of the many famous epirotic stone bridges which are spread throughout the northwest Greece. This is where you should leave your car if you want to enjoy a nice picnic near the borders of the Forest. This is one of the most beautiful spots of the river where the access is quite easy and the landscape impressive. Voidomatis is used very often for kayaking and near the bridge, where the waters are rather shallow and calm (but extremely cold!), you will find lots of beginners testing the waters! As a matter of fact kayaking or rafting in Voidomatis is an experience one should not miss. For the more experienced Aoos river poses greater challenges as its current is stronger. The more you move upwards, away from Voidomatis bridge against the flow of the river, the more quite and serene the environment becomes. If you stand still you will see the aerodynamic shadows of the troots (Salmo trutta) in the crystal clear waters defying the rash of the water. The troots of Voidomatis have a very distinctive dark colour, unlike most of other relatives of theirs, because of their particular habitat. The foliage around the water is normally lush spreading thick, cool shadows over the waters forcing the troots to develop a darker skin than normal which camouflage them better against their predators.

               One of the most famous places in the area is the Dragolimni, the lake of the dragon. It is one of the few places where one can find all four kinds of vulture that live in Europe. During summer the broader area is a pole of attraction for the shepherds that bring their herds to spend the summer there. The waters of the lake are filled with tritons (Triturus alpestris) and small lizards, probably the reason for the name.

               But the Vikos gorge an the surrounding area is not only the habitat of rare wild animals but of a group of people which life follows the rhythms of the forest and depends from it. Wherever one goes he sees traditional settlements made almost exclusively from the stone taken from the heart of the surrounding mountains. The locals feel perfectly at home in these deep lusious forests and even today they cross them twice a year while they move their herds between their summer and winder stables. Very famous are the so call "Vikogiatri", usually elder people that are thought to be something like the shamans of the epirotic land. They are simple uneducated people, usually shepards, that have inherited from their ancestors the ability to distinguish between herbs and prepare all sorts of creams and syrups to cure both men and animals. These unofficial "doctors of Vikos" keep alive un ancient tradition and until the beginning of the 20th century they had a large reputation in Eastern Europe and Minor Asia as excellent doctors. Very often they would become personal doctors of the Soultan himself. The Vikos valley itself is known for its therapeutical herbs among which 50 kinds of wild orchids.

               The presence of "Vikogiatri" is one of the many signs of the dual psyche of the Greek people, a people always balancing between antiquity and orthodoxy. The vast majority of churches and chapels is built on top of ancient temples or shrines as if the people recognise a mysterious undercurrent of power in these places of worship. Throughout Greece the Christian ceremonies are often combined with ancient paganistic customs. In some areas the newly build houses are often sprayed with holy water but long before that the builders have sacrificed a rooster before they even lay the basis. The whole area of Epirus echoes with legends, with the short sweet laughter of fairies and nymphs and the whispering sounds of "xotica", small dangerous creatures that steal peoples' voice under the moonlight and spoil the stored food in cellars. My grandmother used to tell me to feed well the fire in our fireplace when the wind was howling at some cold winder nights. In that way she said we keep away the "xotica" that spy us through the closed windows. "What xotica grandmother?" I was asking with the arrogance of the citydweller who things she knows everything. "there is nothing out there". "Shh! Can't you hear them whispering?" she was saying listening to the wind. Even the names of the places reflect the local legends, the fear of the maiden-eating dragons near wells and water springs, of giants, of the supernatural, the evil eye or simply bad luck. The locals have always a story to tell.