Routed Bottom Board 101

Have a router? A $12 purchase and what follows can turn it into the handiest and most accurate way to add an inletted bottom board to your decoy!

I prefer an inletted bottom board over a flat mount as it removes a seam that at times is very very hard to hide!

You'll need a router, preferably plunge and a set of inlay collars from Lee Valley as well as a 1/4" spiral upcut bit, although a 1/4" straight cut will work. I'm not going to get into when you do or don't use the collar with the inlay set as it will just confuse you! The set comes with instructions and a very helpful diagram.

Hollow out your bird how ever you do and leave the side straight for now. You'll need about a 3/4" lip minimum. After a bird or two with this method you'll have your own numbers.

Trace the bottom outline on some scrap plywood at least 1/4" deep! (THe depth of the inlet collar)

Now cut out the center of you "pattern" about 1/4" in from the traced line.

Very important! Smooth the pattern with a drum sander.

3 things going on here..first get a scarp board for your inlay board to be glued to, a board for your inlay and your pattern. All get hot melt glued together with a few dabs here and there. Enough to hold them, but not so much they can't be taken apart later. I like marine fir for my bottom boards since it wont move like a sawn board will, but the choice is yours. If you go with a sawn board make it in the 1/2" range.

When done you now have an inlay board cut out..

Transfer your pattern to the decoy bottom and hot melt glue it in place.

I like to do this step on a rounter table, but you now route out the inlet using the same pattern.

BEFORE you remove the pattern check for fit and re-route as needed.

When it all comes together you will have a perfectly fitted bottom board that when just set in place with no glue will be near water tight!

Note: This is just a general overview of the procedure, the rest fo the pieces will be obvious when you get the inlay set and do your first bird.