SEABIRD´86 | ||
BUILDING STEP 4
Keel & Bottom I began cutting out the plywood walls of the
keel assembly and the 3 bottom pieces. Loft work was minimized by using
templates made of printer foil -thanks to Leo Foltz- last winter (see Building
Step 6, Bulkheads).
|
||
In the middle of the bottom coat you see a stupid
mistake. Still I don´t know, how to handle that. The Epoxy has not
hardened there. Probably I´ve forgotten the hardener.Now I plan to
cut out the glass at the affected location and soak away the not hardened
epoxy with sawdust and grind the plywood another time.
Then I will repair - oh, I love repairing new things - with a new layer of glass. Must I overlap the glass to the other glass parts? I don't know. If somebody has any suggestions to this problem, please mail it - thanks ahead! -I've it done this way, without overlapping the glas. I turned the bottem, and glassed the other side. So, my bottom is glassed both sides. The bad side is now inside the cabin.- |
||
Gluing the bottom wood of the keel box (made from 1´´x3´´ larch) to the keel wall, was not as difficult as I provided. All fits fine as planed., secured with 1 1/2´´ stainless screws every 6´´. | ||
The corner is rounded and coated with glass. | ||
The mould for 1.100 lb.. lead keel for Seabird is made from concrete (see Building Step 3 ). The burner on the left picture is a roofers gas burner, bought at a home store for 20$ - works fine and fast. I've needed 6 hrs. and ~ 8 Kg gas to meld the whole lead. | ||
The mould is filled up and all my (500 Kg) lead, mostly bought from a scrap trader, fits in. | ||
At the same day I broke the mould | ||
Next day I put the lead keel to a heavy hardwood plank. Oh..., I must see now how the lead sinks down under his own weight between the wooden sticks. Keel making this way results in a couple of lead layers. The bonding between this layers is not continuous. | ||
Transporting the keel from the melting place to the workshop was really no problem. 4 hands and some wooden rollers, wood pieces and a crowbar were all the stuff we needed. | ||
All the lead in one piece in the workshop is a very nice feeling. | ||
All looks fine and easy at this picture, but it was not. | ||
My plan was to push the lead with some screw
clamps and a jack on the plywood wall layed on two heavy hardwood planks.
But at some points my lead sank down and scraped at the plywood edge. Big
epoxy pads started to harden and I had to return and push up the whole
lead keel. I've sweated this 1/2 hr like butter in the sun. I took some
more wood sticks and put them a little bit on the plywood, so the arrangement
works fine.
Lessons learned: Take a wooden stick every 6´´ and put it 1´´ on the plywood. |
||
Yeah! The keel is on. Yeah! It fits accurately.
Only one day more boat building time and the keel assembly will be ready -I hope. Now, what is to do with the uncured-epoxy-bottom-bullshit?.
|
||
seabird
original
seabird modified
version
building steps
building step 1
Model
building step 1a
more model pictures
building step 2
The new workshop
building step 3
Preparations
building step 4
Keel & Bottom
building step 5
Horn assembly
building step 6
Bulkheads & Transom
building step 7
Hardware & Vents
building step 8
Stringers & Clamps
building step 9
Rudder
building step 10
Side panels & Bilge panels
building step 11
Main sheer moldings & windows
building step 12
Tabernacle posts
building step 13
Deck
building step 14
Cockpit
miscellaneous
going around
the boat
breakdowns
scarfing
tool
load handling
links
seabird ´86
index
back to top
mailto: nohnmusik@gmx.de