generalcare

HOUSING
When owning a guinea pig, you need to decide on what type of cage to keep it in. There are a variety of cages available from petshops - ranging in price from $60 - $150+. When figuring out the size / dimensions needed use this as a guide - one cavy needs a MINIMUM of 2 squared feet (one foot = 30cm). For each extra cavy, you will need a further one squared foot. Really, the larger the better. This cage should have either a wire or solid floor (if indoors) and there should be ample ventiliation from wired sides. Try to choose a cage with a 'sleeping' area - somewhere that is darker and more private than the rest of the run. You may also want to put a cardboard box, with holes in the side, to make a little cubby for the piggies to sleep under.

For bedding you can either use straw - or untreated woodchips (both available from petshops). If you use woodchips, sprinkle some straw over the top to give the piggies something to chew on. The cage should be cleaned weekly (as a guide) but should be done when needed - if it becomes dirtier ealier clean it out, or it may last longer than a week. During the week you can take a few handfuls out of the soilded beddinig and replace it with new. I personally feel that the woodchips are more absorbent - however, in saying this it really depends on what type of cage you have to decide which bedding material is suitable (I feel that if you are using straw as bedding, try to have woodchips in the sleeping quarters).

At times you can also allow your cavies to have a run out of their cages - in a secured area of the yard, or around a room in the house, a word of warning though - cavies can chew electrical coards, and can squeeze into very small places.

HANDLING
It is instinctive for cavies to be timmid animals so it is important that they feel safe and secure when being held. To pick the cavy up from itc cage - move your hand in slowly (palm up) and place your hand under the cavy's chest, place your other hand behind the piggy's rump and lift the cavy quickly, but carefully up to your chest, preferrably with the cavy's feet on your chest and you having a hand under its bottom, and the other hand over its shoulders. If the cavy runs around the cage, continue to move slowly - maybe needing to corner it against the side of the cage to place your hand under its chest. Remember - the more your cavy is held, it will slowly learn that they are safe when being held by you.

When children are holding the guinea pig, it is advised that you (being an adult or older child) take the cavy out of the cage for them. Have the child SIT preferrably on the ground, and place a towel onto their lap. Place the cavy onto the towel and fold the towel slightly over the cavy to make them feel more secure. Note: although cavies do not intentionally scratch, they may if scared and in an attempt to run. Some children do not like the feel of the nails - so because of this, placing the cavy onto a towel is advised.

FEEDING
From my experience cavies should be fed 2-3 times daily. In the morning is their 'mix' meal. This is the regular rabbit/guinea pig mix that can be purchased from any petshop, and some supermarkets. It ranges in price but is roughly $1.50 per kg (becoming cheaper per kilo the more bulk you buy). This mix should have pellets, and charf, with other tid bits such as puffed wheat, oats or corn. Try to choose a mix that does not have to much malassis.

In the afternoon, I feed my cavies their fruits / veggies - there is such a range of these that it is good to use a variety. For a list of the fruits / veggies / plants that cavies can eat, refer to the fruit and veggies page.

Cavies should always have something to chew on, so giving cavies hard food such as straw, the occasional piece of wood, corn cobs, etc should be given. Regularly check the cavy's teeth to ensure they are growing straight and have not been knocked out. (sometimes cavies can knock their teeth out, from various reasons - this is not a major problem as their teeth grow back, however the remaining teeth must be trimmed to that they do not become too long. If you are concerned about this, contact a local member of the club)

BREEDING
Cavies can breed from a very early age - sows (females) being known to become pregnant as early as 4 weeks, and boars (males) inpregnating their mothers or other sows as early as 3 weeks. Because of this it is adivsed that you choose either two females or two males and do not breed. If you do decide to breed your cavies you will need to own two cages - one for the females and one for the males. It is advised not to place the boar in with the sow, until the sow is at least 6 months of age. The sows come into heat (can become pregnant) on average every 2 - 2.5 weeks (for only a few hours). Once the mating occurs, the sow will carry the babies for around 70days. You will need to remove the boar before the delivery otherwise the sow can become pregnant straight away, and the babies may be trampled in all the mating commotion.

Once the sow has delivered the babies - the young will come out fully furred, with their eyes open and will chase after mum withing a few hours. You can gernerally tell the sex of the young withing a few days. The young boars are generally seperated around four weeks, but if they are showing an interest in the females in the cage (chasing them around, purring and trying to mount them) it is an idea that they should be taken out. These young boars can generally be put in with the father but note that not all fathers will want the babies living with them, so be observant of any possible problems.

BATHING / GROOMING
Guinea Pigs are generally very clean animals and do not need to be bathed that often - once every 2/3 months is enough - but of course if the cavy is looking dirty a bath can be nice. Not all guinea pigs react the same way to being bathed - some may even try to jump out of the water - so read the information on bathing cavies before washing them for the first time if you have any doubts.

Cavies do not really need any special grooming (unless for show purposes). The regular handling and patting/stroking of your cavy's coat will get rid of many of the loose guard hairs. Occasionally you can brush them with a soft bristled brush meant for dogs / cats or even a human baby's hair brush.