KIMO'S CORNER
Summer is upon us and it's time to dust off your stick, break out your tanning oil and wake up at the crack of noon to partake in an afternoon session of the back side bonanza...
NOT!
For those of you who immediately thought, "what is this guy smoking, crack?", I would say No, I'm not under the influence of any kind of mind enhancing substance. And, if you said to yourself, "Self, that sound good to me" then the following basic lessons are for your edification.
First: Dust off your board? Why in the name of all that is holy is there dust on your board? This is your stick, your ride, your solo session compadre. She (or he) is your weapon of choice. This is your gun! There are many like it but this one is yours! Remember, boards are made for waves. Waves are found in water. Water is wet. To ride a wave you must get your board, jump in the water getting wet thus eliminating any possibility of dust accumulation. Everytime you get in the water your board is saying, "I love you". If you actually hear it, you are probably under the influence of the above mentioned.
Tanning oil: Are you flipping nuts?? Try popping up on a wave with oily hands. Besides, if you are content tanning on the shore even in the face of 1/2 to 1 foot waves, you should probably go home and give your board away to the neighbor who may use it as patio decorations. In the end, it's about the same.
Finally, the crack of noon: Now, as much as I know that sometimes you have other engagements that prevent you from an early home departure, my suggestion is that you reschedule the appointment and set your alarm to dawn patrol AM. You just can't replace the feeling of an early morning load up, getting to the beach before sunrise, grabbing a 7-11 breakfast and waiting for God to reveal the awesome glory and perfection of what is truly the main reason for choosing this life that I have come to love and know so well.
There should be absolutely no questions at this time. Class, dismissed.
Surf on,
Rico |
